Plants to Outcompete Algae

I used to do weekly water changes but when my schedule changed they went to ten days. I do water changes when the nitrate hits 20-25. I don’t have nitrate in my tap, just phosphate.

Nitrates do affect fish. Like ammonia and nitrite, nitrate is toxic. It works differently, depending upon the level, the species and the exposure time. It is now understood that nitrates slowly weaken fish, subject to what I just said. So the longer the fish are exposed to nitrates, and the higher they are, the more debilitating to the fish. The immune system will be weakened, stress occurs, and the fish have a harder time just living. And obviously they become more susceptible to diseases they would normally bee able to fight off but cannot now. Ifyou read my article I linked, it goes into more detail.

Second comment is never use test results to determine when a water change is needed. Of course, if ammonia/nitrite/nitrates suddenly increase the emergency water change is often ncessary (depending, just be geeneral for now). But the aim of water changes is stability. Gtting the nitrates as low as possible and keeping them there. It is now recognized that cichlids are affected by nitrates over 20, and nitrate is now believed to be the root cause of hole in the head. Asyou can see, nitrates are more serious than we used to think, or than some still mistakenly think.

As far as plant species go I was looking at floating plants that are nitrate suckers—duckweed. Water lettuce. Frogbit. But I don’t think five of each is going to make a dent. This is my point.

First, I already explained that plants use ammonium, not nitrate. They will turn to nitrate if ammonium is not sufficient in balance with the light and other 16 nutrients, but this is sort of a last resort because thee plants take about 24 hours to "switch gears" from ammonium to nitrate, and then they have to convert the nitrate back into ammonium in order to use it. They do not do this unless forced into it, and again the light and nutrients have to be high to make this doable. In your aquarium as in most that are established, there will never be a lack of ammonia/ammonium to cause plants to do this, except in the high-tech planted method (something else).

As for numbers, again I though I made the point...once a few plants like Water Sprite, Water Lettuce or Frogbit get settled--and this is usually just a few days--they will take up ammonia like crazy. And, reproduce. You have 16 square feet of surface, but five or sic Water Sprite within a couple of months will have spread across that surface, and daughter plants appear on alternate leaves at an incredible rate. Floaters are called ammonia sinks, and it continues 24/7. Now, I admit the Silver Dollar may suddenly realize he has gourmet food, that you will have to control. But once these plants get going, one fish is not going to be able to eat them.

On the light. The white LEDs are good, at 6500K. The blues are more likely to get algae issues. There is no red to offset this. If you could use only the white diodes, it would I think be better. I did an experiment with 6500K white and a 11000K blue in T8 a few years ago, and the plants were OK but I did see more black brush algae. When I replaced the 11000K with a 5000K tube, with more red, the algae stopped and the plants did show gains.
 
Nitrates do affect fish. Like ammonia and nitrite, nitrate is toxic. It works differently, depending upon the level, the species and the exposure time. It is now understood that nitrates slowly weaken fish, subject to what I just said. So the longer the fish are exposed to nitrates, and the higher they are, the more debilitating to the fish. The immune system will be weakened, stress occurs, and the fish have a harder time just living. And obviously they become more susceptible to diseases they would normally bee able to fight off but cannot now. Ifyou read my article I linked, it goes into more detail.

Second comment is never use test results to determine when a water change is needed. Of course, if ammonia/nitrite/nitrates suddenly increase the emergency water change is often ncessary (depending, just be geeneral for now). But the aim of water changes is stability. Gtting the nitrates as low as possible and keeping them there. It is now recognized that cichlids are affected by nitrates over 20, and nitrate is now believed to be the root cause of hole in the head. Asyou can see, nitrates are more serious than we used to think, or than some still mistakenly think.



First, I already explained that plants use ammonium, not nitrate. They will turn to nitrate if ammonium is not sufficient in balance with the light and other 16 nutrients, but this is sort of a last resort because thee plants take about 24 hours to "switch gears" from ammonium to nitrate, and then they have to convert the nitrate back into ammonium in order to use it. They do not do this unless forced into it, and again the light and nutrients have to be high to make this doable. In your aquarium as in most that are established, there will never be a lack of ammonia/ammonium to cause plants to do this, except in the high-tech planted method (something else).

As for numbers, again I though I made the point...once a few plants like Water Sprite, Water Lettuce or Frogbit get settled--and this is usually just a few days--they will take up ammonia like crazy. And, reproduce. You have 16 square feet of surface, but five or sic Water Sprite within a couple of months will have spread across that surface, and daughter plants appear on alternate leaves at an incredible rate. Floaters are called ammonia sinks, and it continues 24/7. Now, I admit the Silver Dollar may suddenly realize he has gourmet food, that you will have to control. But once these plants get going, one fish is not going to be able to eat them.

On the light. The white LEDs are good, at 6500K. The blues are more likely to get algae issues. There is no red to offset this. If you could use only the white diodes, it would I think be better. I did an experiment with 6500K white and a 11000K blue in T8 a few years ago, and the plants were OK but I did see more black brush algae. When I replaced the 11000K with a 5000K tube, with more red, the algae stopped and the plants did show gains.
Ok, understood. Thank you. I will choose white lighting and some red if I have it. Big water change today. Filters are due first of July (I keep a spreadsheet). Finally, I will order floating plants. I have plastic plants to clean off also.
 
Nitrates do affect fish. Like ammonia and nitrite, nitrate is toxic. It works differently, depending upon the level, the species and the exposure time. It is now understood that nitrates slowly weaken fish, subject to what I just said. So the longer the fish are exposed to nitrates, and the higher they are, the more debilitating to the fish. The immune system will be weakened, stress occurs, and the fish have a harder time just living. And obviously they become more susceptible to diseases they would normally bee able to fight off but cannot now. Ifyou read my article I linked, it goes into more detail.

Second comment is never use test results to determine when a water change is needed. Of course, if ammonia/nitrite/nitrates suddenly increase the emergency water change is often ncessary (depending, just be geeneral for now). But the aim of water changes is stability. Gtting the nitrates as low as possible and keeping them there. It is now recognized that cichlids are affected by nitrates over 20, and nitrate is now believed to be the root cause of hole in the head. Asyou can see, nitrates are more serious than we used to think, or than some still mistakenly think.



First, I already explained that plants use ammonium, not nitrate. They will turn to nitrate if ammonium is not sufficient in balance with the light and other 16 nutrients, but this is sort of a last resort because thee plants take about 24 hours to "switch gears" from ammonium to nitrate, and then they have to convert the nitrate back into ammonium in order to use it. They do not do this unless forced into it, and again the light and nutrients have to be high to make this doable. In your aquarium as in most that are established, there will never be a lack of ammonia/ammonium to cause plants to do this, except in the high-tech planted method (something else).

As for numbers, again I though I made the point...once a few plants like Water Sprite, Water Lettuce or Frogbit get settled--and this is usually just a few days--they will take up ammonia like crazy. And, reproduce. You have 16 square feet of surface, but five or sic Water Sprite within a couple of months will have spread across that surface, and daughter plants appear on alternate leaves at an incredible rate. Floaters are called ammonia sinks, and it continues 24/7. Now, I admit the Silver Dollar may suddenly realize he has gourmet food, that you will have to control. But once these plants get going, one fish is not going to be able to eat them.

On the light. The white LEDs are good, at 6500K. The blues are more likely to get algae issues. There is no red to offset this. If you could use only the white diodes, it would I think be better. I did an experiment with 6500K white and a 11000K blue in T8 a few years ago, and the plants were OK but I did see more black brush algae. When I replaced the 11000K with a 5000K tube, with more red, the algae stopped and the plants did show gains.
Nitrate barely 2. Clean filters. Found my missing yo-yo under the cabinet. Don’t even know how it made it from a back corner space of the tank to the front of a closed cabinet. He must’ve done lots of flopping to get there. Never saw him. ☹️looked behind and side of aquarium….I thought he was taken out by the big yo-yos.

Next is to order plants. Changed the light to white only.
 
Hello.

Realistically, how many floating plants would I need to outcompete the brown diatoms which are thriving in my aquarium? I have 1 ppm of phosphate in my tap so of course it doubles plus in my tank. The tank is five years established. I don’t feel regular plants are for me and also, I have a silver dollar. Im serious. Am I looking at way too many floating plants to outcompete diatoms? Or do I have a fighting chance? I can’t stand the diatoms. Suggestions please? I’ve cleaned the fake plants to bright green. Within a week the diatoms come back. The tank is 120 gallons but it’s not long. 4’ x 4’ x 2’.

Thank you!
I have finally cleaned plastic plants and decor and I have ordered several floating plants. Let’s see what happens once they’re in there. I ordered large duckweed and frogbit. Hoping they thrive. Should arrive Wed., July 12th.
 
I feel your pain in regards to these evil brown diatoms. Two of my tanks are cursed with it.
Would some Anubias survive your plant eaters?
They have pretty substantial leaves
 
I feel your pain in regards to these evil brown diatoms. Two of my tanks are cursed with it.
Would some Anubias survive your plant eaters?
They have pretty substantial leaves
I’m so afraid I don’t have enough light. I’m really hoping and praying that the floaters I ordered will make a noticeable dent. Time will tell.
 
Hello.

Realistically, how many floating plants would I need to outcompete the brown diatoms which are thriving in my aquarium? I have 1 ppm of phosphate in my tap so of course it doubles plus in my tank. The tank is five years established. I don’t feel regular plants are for me and also, I have a silver dollar. Im serious. Am I looking at way too many floating plants to outcompete diatoms? Or do I have a fighting chance? I can’t stand the diatoms. Suggestions please? I’ve cleaned the fake plants to bright green. Within a week the diatoms come back. The tank is 120 gallons but it’s not long. 4’ x 4’ x 2’.

Thank you!
Exact number of plants....I don't think anyone can give you an exact answer, especially with floaters like duckweed, frogbit etc....your best bet is to buy a few plants such as dwarf water lettuce and see what happens. Alas this is not an exact answer, but it seems, with your tank you will have to experiment with different processes to come up with a solution. You mention that the tank has been established for 5 years now. So what changed to cause diatoms now? Also you mention brown diatoms, could this be a misdiagnosis and maybe it's really some sort of cyanobacteria....Good luck....
 
Exact number of plants....I don't think anyone can give you an exact answer, especially with floaters like duckweed, frogbit etc....your best bet is to buy a few plants such as dwarf water lettuce and see what happens. Alas this is not an exact answer, but it seems, with your tank you will have to experiment with different processes to come up with a solution. You mention that the tank has been established for 5 years now. So what changed to cause diatoms now? Also you mention brown diatoms, could this be a misdiagnosis and maybe it's really some sort of cyanobacteria....Good luck....
I’ve had brown diatoms for the last five years. Lol. I’m sick of it and wanted to try plants which to me was a last resort. I just received two dozen frogbit and a handful of duckweed yesterday. This morning I have less than half of what I started with. Of what’s remaining I see frayed edges so clearly they were eaten.
 
I’ve had brown diatoms for the last five years. Lol. I’m sick of it and wanted to try plants which to me was a last resort. I just received two dozen frogbit and a handful of duckweed yesterday. This morning I have less than half of what I started with. Of what’s remaining I see frayed edges so clearly they were eaten.
Oh man. What is munching on it so fast? Would be frustrating
 
Oh man. What is munching on it so fast? Would be frustrating
When I observed that morning, and was expecting it to be the yo-yos, turns out the Congo Tetras were nibbling! It’s OK. They’re all beautiful! People say hornwort is not very palatable. Maybe I will try. Thank you for the sympathy. Lol
 

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