Hello all I have my first planted tank I recently got the plants and they looked great when I go them now they are declining. I forgot the small detail of needing 2WPG. So now I need to replace my hood and lighting system. I need to know if there is somewhere online I can buy the whole thing or how I should go about doing this setup. i live in the States so any web site that would help with a description of what I need for my 20 gal tank would be helpful
Oops Forgot About The Lighting Part
- Thread starter andyfitz
- Start date
three-fingers
Fish Connoisseur
What brand of tank is it? Can you find the model?
If it's just a generic 20 gal and hood, your best bet would be to modify the hood by removing the old lighting and adding one or two compact florescent bulbs depending on how much light you want.
To do this would cost about £50 here, so probably $50-70 max where you are
.
Could also get something like this: [URL="http
/www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3733+11418&pcatid=11418"]http/www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod...mp;pcatid=11418[/URL], may need to replace the bulb though.
If it's just a generic 20 gal and hood, your best bet would be to modify the hood by removing the old lighting and adding one or two compact florescent bulbs depending on how much light you want.
To do this would cost about £50 here, so probably $50-70 max where you are
.Could also get something like this: [URL="http
/www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3733+11418&pcatid=11418"]http/www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod...mp;pcatid=11418[/URL], may need to replace the bulb though.
Renate
Fish Crazy
Is that a 20 gallon long or high?
Some make lights with supplies from ahsupply.com
Some use clip on lights with the florescent screw in bulbs for 20 gallon long tank.
I bought a light system on EBay with the bulbs. Those bulbs can be costly.
If you have low to medium light plants, the cheapest thing to do is to buy a reflector and make a diy co2.
What plants do you have? Sounds like you made the same mistake I made, plants bought first then lights to suit the plants.
Some make lights with supplies from ahsupply.com
Some use clip on lights with the florescent screw in bulbs for 20 gallon long tank.
I bought a light system on EBay with the bulbs. Those bulbs can be costly.
If you have low to medium light plants, the cheapest thing to do is to buy a reflector and make a diy co2.
What plants do you have? Sounds like you made the same mistake I made, plants bought first then lights to suit the plants.
Renate
Fish Crazy
What about the depth of the tank? That is what really affects what you can use for lighting.
SuperColey1
Planted Section
Where did you hear you 'need' 2WPG of light? I use 0.9WPG several others use similar. 2WPG+ is only needed if you want very fast growth etc and with it comes problems for the inexperienced.
The pic on the left of my sig has 0.6WPG T8 and on the right 0.9WPG T5HO.
What light do you have and what is your aim. Is it to do scape after scpe, churning them out constantly or are you looking for a much longer term set up?
AC
The depth is 16.5" I have a nutrafin CO2 also
Renate
Fish Crazy
Where did you hear you 'need' 2WPG of light? I use 0.9WPG several others use similar. 2WPG+ is only needed if you want very fast growth etc and with it comes problems for the inexperienced.
Does this quote pertain only to low light plants? Is diy co2 used with low light for good plant growth? For my plants, Rotala indica and Cabomba carolina, were growing quite thin until I added a 65watt and 20 watt bulb over my tank.
Does this quote pertain only to low light plants? Is diy co2 used with low light for good plant growth? For my plants, Rotala indica and Cabomba carolina, were growing quite thin until I added a 65watt and 20 watt bulb over my tank.
SuperColey1
Planted Section
Although the WPG rule can be used as a guideline it is very outdated.
For example 2WPG on the WPG rule is 2WPG of T12 lighting. IMO T5HO will give the equivalent of double this rule so my 0.9WPG (actual wattage divided by gallons) would be equivalent to 1.8WPG on the rule!!! No science really but just by experimenting with high light plants like Blyxia (going mad in the right pic of my sig) under 0.9WPG should tell you something.
Renate. Although PC should also be a certain percentage higher than the WPG rule I am not a fan of PC lights as they tend to give a huge amount of light to one area and wash out the upper segment of the tank for viewing/photographs. They are also hard to find efficient reflectors for etc.
Even with T8 1WPG will grow 'low light' plants well. 2WPG of T8 is enough for virtually anything.
AC
For example 2WPG on the WPG rule is 2WPG of T12 lighting. IMO T5HO will give the equivalent of double this rule so my 0.9WPG (actual wattage divided by gallons) would be equivalent to 1.8WPG on the rule!!! No science really but just by experimenting with high light plants like Blyxia (going mad in the right pic of my sig) under 0.9WPG should tell you something.
Renate. Although PC should also be a certain percentage higher than the WPG rule I am not a fan of PC lights as they tend to give a huge amount of light to one area and wash out the upper segment of the tank for viewing/photographs. They are also hard to find efficient reflectors for etc.
Even with T8 1WPG will grow 'low light' plants well. 2WPG of T8 is enough for virtually anything.
AC
Renate
Fish Crazy
I am getting more confused about lights.
What is a PC light?
My T5 65 Watt Dual light is 6700K /10000K. Which Kelvin rating is the best to grow plants.
What is more important the Kelvin rating, the lumins, or the wpg?
Read that T5 lasts long, but the thing is that you have to replace the bulbs every 6-8months anyways since the phosphorous breaks down and the spectrum changes to Algae growth stage.
Anybody noticed this?
Mikaila31
Always Watching
PC light is a Power Compact flourescent light which are my perfered lights. Really not sure whats the most important I've always gone by the type of lighting and the wpg. Kelvin rating is fine as long as it's between 4000-10000k, its more dependent on what kelvin rating you perfer.
I have no idea about T5's, I use 55watt PC's on my tanks, I haven't replaced any of them yet, they range in age from a couple months to three years. They are pricey though and run $15-25 a bulb.
Renate
Fish Crazy
What is the difference between CF (Compact fluorescents) and PC (Power compacts) lights?
My light as 2 T5 bulbs together with square pin, which is made by current usa. What type of light is this?
My light as 2 T5 bulbs together with square pin, which is made by current usa. What type of light is this?
SuperColey1
Planted Section
CF and PC are one and the same. They are infact a T5 tube that in effect bent in the middle. Therefore why not just have 2 T5 lineara and choose how to space them rather than be forced to have them 5mm apart???
As per above post kelvin ratings are not important, WPG is inaccurate, lumens is more accurate but going a little over the top really. $15-20 sounds very expensive to me. If you already have the ballast unit and reflector the actual tube should be available somewhere for $8-10. No need to buy one that has the word aquarium printed on the packaging.
Heres a link to show what I mean.
[URL="http/www.theplantedtank.co.uk/lighting.htm"]http/www.theplantedtank.co.uk/lighting.htm[/URL]
Although you are right in stating that lights do diminish over time I think someone has given you some duff info there:
The common thought is (or was with T8 stock ballasts) that you should change your tubes every year. However again this is starting to become an outdated theory.
There are 2 types of ballast unit to power a fluorescent light. Magnetic and electronic. Your typical stock T8s in the hood of your tank when you buy it will be using a magnetic ballast. T5s/PC/CF wether stock or upgrades will typically use electronic.
The difference is that when you turn on the light a magnetic ballast will 'flicker' start' the light. An electronic one will delay 1 second and the light will come straight on with no flicker.
The magnetic ballast will get very hot when used. The electronic one will not get anywhere near as hot.
If you use an electronic ballast the lights will not deteriorate anywhere near as quickly as a magnetic one. This can mean that they will last for 2+ years without diminishing to the point of needing to be replaced. Tubes on magnetic ballasts do noticeably deteriorate over time and I would replace yearly.
I will use my tank as an example again. lol. When I upgraded to PC a long time ago I had to rewire the hood as I wanted to use 1 of the T8s that was in the hood and then fit the PC where the other T8 was. This was because they were wired into a circuit and therefore I had to alter the circuit to run 1 light (remove 1 light from a 2 light joined circuit and the one still fitted wont work as the circuit is broken.) Because I was only using only 1 light I also had to replace the 36W magnetic ballast as it would've overpowered a single 18W tube. I replaced it with an 18W electronic one that I found cheap on ebay. The electronic one actually made the tube brighter due to its greater eficiency. This was 18 months ago and I am still using the same T8 tube. I replaced the PC with the T5HO about 3 months later. Wasn't very impressed with it.
Tubes do not change their K ratings as they deteriorate. They are the same K rating but will just emit less light. As above using an electronic ballast means this is not likely to happen within 2 years let alone 6-8 months.
Algae is not induced by a K rating. It is triggered by ammonia and thrives on plant defficiencies. If the plant defficiency is cause by not enough light then I guess you could say that using a 18000K blue bulb caused the algae but only in a roundabout way. If this were true then noone would use nightlights in a planted tank for the fear of the blue light causing algae. (My tank again. Are you bored of my tank yet. lol)
So in summary:
T5 and PC/CF are both T5, just a T5 is linear and PC/CF is bent in half.
T5 is more efficient than T8.
Electronic extends the tube life.
Sorry for the long post. though I'd explain the whole lot. lol
AC
As per above post kelvin ratings are not important, WPG is inaccurate, lumens is more accurate but going a little over the top really. $15-20 sounds very expensive to me. If you already have the ballast unit and reflector the actual tube should be available somewhere for $8-10. No need to buy one that has the word aquarium printed on the packaging.
Heres a link to show what I mean.
[URL="http
/www.theplantedtank.co.uk/lighting.htm"]http/www.theplantedtank.co.uk/lighting.htm[/URL]Although you are right in stating that lights do diminish over time I think someone has given you some duff info there:
The common thought is (or was with T8 stock ballasts) that you should change your tubes every year. However again this is starting to become an outdated theory.
There are 2 types of ballast unit to power a fluorescent light. Magnetic and electronic. Your typical stock T8s in the hood of your tank when you buy it will be using a magnetic ballast. T5s/PC/CF wether stock or upgrades will typically use electronic.
The difference is that when you turn on the light a magnetic ballast will 'flicker' start' the light. An electronic one will delay 1 second and the light will come straight on with no flicker.
The magnetic ballast will get very hot when used. The electronic one will not get anywhere near as hot.
If you use an electronic ballast the lights will not deteriorate anywhere near as quickly as a magnetic one. This can mean that they will last for 2+ years without diminishing to the point of needing to be replaced. Tubes on magnetic ballasts do noticeably deteriorate over time and I would replace yearly.
I will use my tank as an example again. lol. When I upgraded to PC a long time ago I had to rewire the hood as I wanted to use 1 of the T8s that was in the hood and then fit the PC where the other T8 was. This was because they were wired into a circuit and therefore I had to alter the circuit to run 1 light (remove 1 light from a 2 light joined circuit and the one still fitted wont work as the circuit is broken.) Because I was only using only 1 light I also had to replace the 36W magnetic ballast as it would've overpowered a single 18W tube. I replaced it with an 18W electronic one that I found cheap on ebay. The electronic one actually made the tube brighter due to its greater eficiency. This was 18 months ago and I am still using the same T8 tube. I replaced the PC with the T5HO about 3 months later. Wasn't very impressed with it.
Tubes do not change their K ratings as they deteriorate. They are the same K rating but will just emit less light. As above using an electronic ballast means this is not likely to happen within 2 years let alone 6-8 months.
Algae is not induced by a K rating. It is triggered by ammonia and thrives on plant defficiencies. If the plant defficiency is cause by not enough light then I guess you could say that using a 18000K blue bulb caused the algae but only in a roundabout way. If this were true then noone would use nightlights in a planted tank for the fear of the blue light causing algae. (My tank again. Are you bored of my tank yet. lol)
So in summary:
T5 and PC/CF are both T5, just a T5 is linear and PC/CF is bent in half.
T5 is more efficient than T8.
Electronic extends the tube life.
Sorry for the long post. though I'd explain the whole lot. lol
AC
Renate
Fish Crazy
I would like to know how you got that blue light.
I saw 1 person got it with xmas lights. It doesn't work for my tank.
By the whey not all compact ligths are bent. I have a compact T5 bulb that is just 2 small bulbs with a square pin.
I saw 1 person got it with xmas lights. It doesn't work for my tank.
By the whey not all compact ligths are bent. I have a compact T5 bulb that is just 2 small bulbs with a square pin.
SuperColey1
Planted Section
Most of them have the bend inside the pin. Only a few are bent at the external end.
The nightlight is simple. 2 of the neon blue cold cathodes off ebay $10ish. Cut the cables. Twist the cables to a 12V adaptor (or an old mobile phone charger if it is 5V or above)
silicon them in position in your hood. away you go.
This thread gives you the idea but there is no need to go as far. Should cost $10 for the lights and then $5-10 for a 12 volt adaptor or nothing if you use an old mobile charger.
http/www.fishforums.net/content/forum/46...ode-Moon-Light/
AC
The nightlight is simple. 2 of the neon blue cold cathodes off ebay $10ish. Cut the cables. Twist the cables to a 12V adaptor (or an old mobile phone charger if it is 5V or above)
silicon them in position in your hood. away you go.
This thread gives you the idea but there is no need to go as far. Should cost $10 for the lights and then $5-10 for a 12 volt adaptor or nothing if you use an old mobile charger.
http
/www.fishforums.net/content/forum/46...ode-Moon-Light/AC
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