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It's fine for dechlorinator but I would use it sparingly long term because it contains aloe Vera, which although they say it's proven to reduce stress, it's actually not and it's truly proven to cause more damage than good in high amounts.
its probably equivalent to you taking antibiotics every day of your life, it's not helping you unless you're sick, and long term it's only going to make your body weaker. Same concept with fish, it's not good to dose anything that isn't natural to a fishes biology or enviornment
 
I've attached a photo, seems there's a red poo, could this be worms? I've been feeding them flake food (tetramin)
 

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It could just be the food it's eating or it could be some sort of parasite
 
also mollies do best in hard water so you are good, but they are brackish fish meaning they need some salt in their water. you can still attempt to keep them but they probably won't live a full life.

This is a common fallacy passed around as fact. Mollies can survive just fine in full freshwater, brackish or full marine. The key with freshwater is that the water needs to be hard. But, there does not need to be "salt" in the water.

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/fwsubwebindex/mollies.htm

As the article points out... what they really need is moderately hard to hard water, a pH above 7.5 and CLEAN water.


The biggest concern I have with this tank and mollies is that they should be kept in a bigger tank. I'd never keep them in anything smaller than a 20 gallon long, preferably a 29 or 30 gallon tank, minimum.
 
When dealing with a fish in cycle, the ammonia needs to be kept under 0.05 ppm 'free ammonia', use this calculator and change as much water as necessary as often as necessary to keep it well under this level. The goal should be that it never goes above that level before you do another water change. Changing 50% have 1.0 ppm free ammonia (not the total ammonia like the API test kit is designed to read out) is not sufficient, as the value will rise again above the danger threshold right after the water change. The goal would be to do the water change when the free ammonia is 0.045 ppm.

https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/FreeAmmonia.php


As for nitrite, salt can be used to deal with that (which if added slowly the mollies will be extremely tolerant of).
 

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