Mollies

[Robynhoods]

pH is at 7.6, temp is kept at 75-76 and yeah we do get a lot fry. I have been wanting to give the boy to another friend because my one main girl fish has given birth like 4 times already. This last time I'm not sure if it was one or two fish that gave birth on the same day. We ended up with 30ish fry. I had a few saved in the breeder box but once more and more came, I let them all go and left it up to survival of the fittest. From what I've seen I had two fry left but since I just did that big water change I'm not sure if they are still there. They are very small and like 7 of them were born premature - a few days before the rest.

And yes I agree that mollies aren't small fish and need bigger than my 20 gallon tank. I'm not sure what my GH and KH are because I have not made the trip to the pet store yet to get my water checked or get new medicine. I'm currently sick with bronchitis so I've been waiting until I can get help.

Like I said I've been battling sickness after sickness with Ryder. I've done 2 full treatments of salt before this to try and help with her scales. I also did a full treatment of Melafix, and 5 days or so of Metro+. I'll get the medicine as soon as I can to dose my tank and the makeshift tank she is in.

Thank you for your help. If there is anything else you suggest please let me know but I really appreciate the quick replies <3

 

[Byron]

I'm staying out of the disease issue as I have so little experience (fortunately). But I will say, in general, never combine treatments or medications. This can cause serious issues for fish. Metronidazole mixed in with food is fine, and advisable; added to the water, tends not to be as effective. It is an antibiotic, so use only when fairly certain; but it is good for a number of internal protozoan which have no external symptoms until the fish suddenly die (often having difficulty swimming just prior to death). Melafix I will not use, I tried it once and clearly the fish were bothered. Salt is your best option here I think, and livebearers can tolerate salt very well.

On the GH, can you look up your water authority's website, it may be there? Or call them? This is vital for mollies.

 

[Robynhoods]

Okay got my water tested. Worse that I thought.

Any ideas on how to get my nitrite lower? And my KH Higher? Went to the pet store but Petco doesn't hold medicine like that or the rock stuff so I'll be going to critters tomorrow morning to get it. What do you think?

 

[Colin_T]

The easiest way to lower ammonia, nitrite or nitrate is to do big (75-90%)water changes every day and complete gravel cleans. Just make sure any new water going into the tank is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added.
Your filters are probably messed up from the metronidazole that was used to treat the fish.

To increase carbonate hardness (KH) I use Rift Lake Conditioner. It combines a number of mineral salts in powder form that you use to raise the GH, KH & pH of water so it is suitable for African rift lake cichlids. For livebearers you can use it at half strength or more, depending on how hard your current water is.

There are also KH tablets that can be added to the tank but they cost as much as the Rift Lake conditioner, and the Rift Lake stuff buffers the GH as well.

You can also use sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to raise KH a bit but you have to add it slowly because it raises pH rapidly too.

 

[Byron]

I agree on the nitrite. Water changes, and you can here use a conditioner that detoxifies nitrite. There are two I know of, Seachem's Prime and Aquarium Solutions Ultimate. Keep in mind that these only detoxify nitrite for 24-36 hours, then if still present it turns back into toxic nitrite. But with daily partial water changes this will help. When nitrite is back to zero consecutive days you can go back to your regular conditioner.

On the GH/KH/pH...this is a major issue for mollies that must have harder water with a basic pH. This in itself could be the cause of the issue. Mollies in soft and/or acidic water inevitably develop problems like shymmying, fungus, clamped fins. You must increase the GH and pH; the KH will take care of itself if this is properly done. Baking soda is not going to help, as it will do nothing to raise GH and mollies must have calcium and magnesium in the water to allow the proper functioning of their homeostasis.

The rift lake salts help (these are not "salt" as we think of it, but the salts of minerals that harden water). Another way which I like because it is less expensive and permanent is to use a calcareous substrate. Dolomite, aragonite or a rift lake sand substrate. Do not use marine substrates as these will include sodiu7m chloride (common salt), though with mollies that wouldn't be as much of an issue, but you may decide on other livebearers and they do not need sodium chloride.

 

[Robynhoods]

Update on Ryder:

I apologize for the blurry pics, she is zipping around a little bit.

Had her in a makeshift tank but after I was done cleaning it she completely jumped out once and jumped again but landed back in the water. She's in the main tank for the night and while I'm in class so that she doesn't jump out while I'm asleep or away.

My water is a lot more clear, the fish haven't really been messing with her and she is still eating a lot. Going to take another test to measure my water. So far nobody else is showing signs. Thank you guys for your help.

She seems to be a little bit better : her lips are still swollen but less so. Her eyes are still bulging as well but they aren't so big or cloudy. Going to dose her with the medicine tomorrow, have had a bit of trouble finding it.

I'll keep you updated.

 

[Robynhoods]

The right is the updated strip. It's better, pH seems to be lower but it's getting there.

 

[Colin_T]

keep doing water changes and gravel cleans.

 

[Byron]

Your mollies will not recover, and the others will succumb soon. The water is much too soft and acidic for mollies. All the water changes and gravel cleans will not help this. You need harder water.

 

[Robynhoods]

Question for Colin,

Am I supposed to add the salt in the bucket every time I do water changes?

 

[Colin_T]

Am I supposed to add the salt in the bucket every time I do water changes?

yes

 

[Robynhoods]

Okay will do thank you so much.

 

[Colin_T]

and when your bronchitis is better, grab some rift lake salt for them

 

[Robynhoods]

Okay I will, my mom looked in a few stores for it but she couldn't find it, gonna try getting it from Critters... might have to order it online. And I've been dosing as minimally as possible ph up, got it up a little bit so that's good, don't wanna do more for a little while. And thank you!

 

[Byron]

Okay I will, my mom looked in a few stores for it but she couldn't find it, gonna try getting it from Critters... might have to order it online. And I've been dosing as minimally as possible ph up, got it up a little bit so that's good, don't wanna do more for a little while. And thank you!

No, this is not good. You do not ever want to use the pH up or down chemicals. I will explain.

The pH is tied to the GH and KH. The latter have to do with the dissolved minerals, primarily calcium and magnesium, in the water. The GH measure these, known as general or total hardness. The KH (carbonate hardness or Alkalinity) are related, and this one "buffer" pH to prevent changes. The higher the KH the more buffering.

Mollies must have calcium and magnesium in the water or they will not bee healthy and will not live long. The pH is part of this, but the GH is thee more critical. Raising the pH with chemicals like pH Up is not permanent because the lack of GH and KH will allow natural processes to acidify the water. Then you add more pH Up, etc, etc. The fish will die from this.

You need to think through the whole process. Using rift lake salts will increase the GH and KH and the pH will rise as a result. This has to be done at every water change, so it can get expensive. It is safer to use a calcareous substrate like a sand made from aragonite and crushed coral. But one with no sodium chloride salt, what we think of as common "salt," so no substrate intended for marine tanks which need the sodium chloride. Freshwater fish do not.

Another option is to stay with soft water fish species. You will not need to add anything to your tap water except a conditioner.