I HAVE A COMMUNITY TANK OF ABOUT 14 MONTHS IN AGE IT HOLDS APPROX 40 FISH MAINLY QUITE SMALL. IT IS UNDER GRAVEL FILTER 5 PLANTS AND 3 ROCKS. I CHANGE 20 PER CENT OF THE WATER EVERY 2 WEEKS AND FEED ONCE A DAY. MY PROBLEM IS THE PH KEEPS DROPPING DOWN TO ABOUT 5 THIS DOES NOT SEEM TO AFFECT MOST OF THE FISH BUT HOW DO I STOP THIS FROM HAPPENING AT THE MOMENT IAM USING BICARB OF SODA TO GET IT BACK UP. IS THEIR ANYTHING I CAN ADD TO THE TANK TO BALANCE OUT THE PH AT 7 AND KEEP IT THERE?
LOW PH
- Thread starter banker
- Start date
🐠 May TOTM Voting is Live! 🐠
🏆 Click here to Vote! 🏆
Sorrell
If you're a bird, I'm a bird
What size tank and what kinds of fish are in it? Can you give parameters for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate?
To me it sounds like old tank syndrome:
The first sign of "old tank syndrome" is rising nitrate levels. The nitrification process, which oxidizes ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate, is continuous. The same process also produces hydrogen ions. Hydrogen ions directly influence the pH level. PH, in simple words, is the bonding of carbonate ions (buffer) with hydrogen ions. The more bonding, the higher the pH. Accumulating hydrogen ions will use up all available buffers. If none are left hydrogen ions will acidify the water, resulting in a steady but continuous decline of pH.
If left unchecked, the pH will eventually drop below 6. At this point, the beneficial bacteria will be in serious danger and cease to convert ammonia into less toxic compounds (nitrite, nitrate). The consequence is a build up in ammonia.
Even at this point, there are no visible signs of something going badly wrong, except if the basic water parameters are checked on regularly.
The increase in ammonia at this stage will not have a big impact but harbors a potential and deadly threat. Ammonia consists of either ammonium (NH4 - not very toxic) or ammonia (NH3 - very toxic). At a pH below 6 ammonia is in the less toxic form of NH4 which in effect protects the remaining fish.
Adding new buffers by replacing evaporated water, the old tank syndrome shifts slightly over to more acceptable pH readings and acceptable ammonia, but will be high in nitrates and water hardness. (Carbonate hardness = buffers).
To remedy the old tank syndrome, water changes are essential. A few Gallons per day will eventually raise the pH to the point where the beneficial bacteria are "re-activated" again, solving the ammonia problem. This has to be done slowly to prevent any disaster by drastic changes in the environment. Ammonia has to be monitored and the water changes should be paused if pH is rising but ammonia not declining. The bacteria need to catch up first. Remember ammonia gets toxic with rising pH.
Prevention of course is the best remedy. Regular maintenance of the tank will prevent the old tank syndrome. Maintenance is essential.
To me it sounds like old tank syndrome:
The first sign of "old tank syndrome" is rising nitrate levels. The nitrification process, which oxidizes ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate, is continuous. The same process also produces hydrogen ions. Hydrogen ions directly influence the pH level. PH, in simple words, is the bonding of carbonate ions (buffer) with hydrogen ions. The more bonding, the higher the pH. Accumulating hydrogen ions will use up all available buffers. If none are left hydrogen ions will acidify the water, resulting in a steady but continuous decline of pH.
If left unchecked, the pH will eventually drop below 6. At this point, the beneficial bacteria will be in serious danger and cease to convert ammonia into less toxic compounds (nitrite, nitrate). The consequence is a build up in ammonia.
Even at this point, there are no visible signs of something going badly wrong, except if the basic water parameters are checked on regularly.
The increase in ammonia at this stage will not have a big impact but harbors a potential and deadly threat. Ammonia consists of either ammonium (NH4 - not very toxic) or ammonia (NH3 - very toxic). At a pH below 6 ammonia is in the less toxic form of NH4 which in effect protects the remaining fish.
Adding new buffers by replacing evaporated water, the old tank syndrome shifts slightly over to more acceptable pH readings and acceptable ammonia, but will be high in nitrates and water hardness. (Carbonate hardness = buffers).
To remedy the old tank syndrome, water changes are essential. A few Gallons per day will eventually raise the pH to the point where the beneficial bacteria are "re-activated" again, solving the ammonia problem. This has to be done slowly to prevent any disaster by drastic changes in the environment. Ammonia has to be monitored and the water changes should be paused if pH is rising but ammonia not declining. The bacteria need to catch up first. Remember ammonia gets toxic with rising pH.
Prevention of course is the best remedy. Regular maintenance of the tank will prevent the old tank syndrome. Maintenance is essential.
fishman 1
Fish Crazy
Hi banker,
Having read your problem I see that you are currently doing 20% water changes every 2 weeks.
I too have the occasional time when my tank bottoms out with the PH.
I do regular weekly or fortnightly water changes of 30%.
I have read that the fluctuation can be caused due to very low KH.
KH apparently stabilizes the water.
When I tested mine the KH reading extremely low.
I now use a product to help buff the water.
Dont get this confused with GH, as my GH readings are fine.
High protein food can also contribute to acidity in the water to aswell as make a mess of your nitrite levels very quickly.
Having read your problem I see that you are currently doing 20% water changes every 2 weeks.
I too have the occasional time when my tank bottoms out with the PH.
I do regular weekly or fortnightly water changes of 30%.
I have read that the fluctuation can be caused due to very low KH.
KH apparently stabilizes the water.
When I tested mine the KH reading extremely low.
I now use a product to help buff the water.
Dont get this confused with GH, as my GH readings are fine.
High protein food can also contribute to acidity in the water to aswell as make a mess of your nitrite levels very quickly.
Hi...I agree with the above. I have a tank almost 4 months now and it tends to slide toward the acidic side despite frequent water changes (my tap pH is 7.2-7.4). I tested my kH and it is low....2, ie, low buffering capacity. You may want to get a kH/gH testing kit and see where you stand. The pro's here can then make more suggestions. Good luck. SH
fishman 1
Fish Crazy
Hi steelhealr
I was beginning to think it might just be me with KH is as low as 2.
It was only a few weeks ago I decided to buy some of the KH adjuster after a pal of mine told me he had good results from it.
What do you do with your KH?
I was beginning to think it might just be me with KH is as low as 2.
It was only a few weeks ago I decided to buy some of the KH adjuster after a pal of mine told me he had good results from it.
What do you do with your KH?
Hi....gonna tackle it this weekend, but, I've read up on it and this is what I want to do. I think I"m going to go very slowly with Na Bicarb. Most of the advice on the net states that this can improve your kH without necessarily affecting the pH or hardness. Some of my fish prefer either soft water or soft acidic water. I think coral or limestone (Ca Carbonate) will also increase hardness. I'm going to add it to the replacement water with my next water change. Some references said one tsp/50 gallons..another made another rec as above. I'll probably use less and retest first. I'll let you know how it goes( I do my water changes and testing on Saturdays)SH
fishman 1
Fish Crazy
Yes, please let me know how you get on as I too keep similar species and i dont want my GH to rise any higher.
Hi Fishman...here goes. I did my 25% water change today. I use a Python. I took out about a cup of aquarium water and mixed 1/2 tsp NaBicarb to the water and dissolved it ( I used 1/8 tsp/10 gallons and I have a 46 gallon tank; another reference suggested 1tsp/50 gallons). I added dechlorinator and returned the water to the tank, slowly adding the bicarb. Initial readings: pH 6.8/6.9, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 40, kH 2. Several hours later I retested pH and kH......pH 7.0 and kH is now 3. So..up one unit. Tomorrow I'll repeat with less....1/8th tsp and then just hang and watch. All fish are swimming happily (thank goodness no floaters or sinkers). Hope this helps. SH
fishman 1
Fish Crazy
It sounds like it may be working well.
Did you test your GH to see if that had gone up as well as the KH?
I wondered if it has affected that?
Thank you for the information.
Did you test your GH to see if that had gone up as well as the KH?
I wondered if it has affected that?
Thank you for the information.
Hi Fishman....no...didn't check gH. I don't think Na will increase water hardness that much if at all, but, I'll send you my parameters again tomorrow after I add more and I'll check gH. SHfishman 1 said:It sounds like it may be working well.
Did you test your GH to see if that had gone up as well as the KH?
I wondered if it has affected that?
Thank you for the information.
Most reactions
-
239 -
224 -
156 -
151 -
120 -
105 -
95 -
88 -
84 -
82 -
82 -
82 -
75 -
75 -
57
