Is it just me or is there something on my cory?
- Thread starter ✨Eurobeat✨
- Start date
His barbels? Lol. Could you circle the area in question please?
✨Eurobeat✨
New Member
I mean it looks like there's some kinda fungus on the top of his head or something.
Looks like something is wrong with the slime coat.
What is the pH of your tank, that is excess mucus, caused by bad or inappropriate water conditions.
That catfish looks like it could do with some fattening up.
It is excess mucous produced by something in the water irritating the fish. This can be ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, wrong pH, or external parasites like Costia.
Normally if there is a water quality issue (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate or wrong pH), the whole fish including its fins, will be covered in a cream, white or grey film.
When there is an injury to the fish it will produce more mucous over the injured area and you can get a cream or white patch on the fish. However, the fish does not appear to have an injury.
This leaves us with external protozoa like Costia, Chilodonella & Trichodina. These parasites attack the fish in different areas and cause the fish to produce cream, white or grey patches on the body. Just like your fish has. Salt is the best treatment for this.
--------------------
SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt) or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.
Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.
The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria, fish, plants, shrimp or snails.
After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.
If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.
When you first add salt, add the salt to a small bucket of tank water and dissolve the salt. then slowly pour the salt water into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.
Normally if there is a water quality issue (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate or wrong pH), the whole fish including its fins, will be covered in a cream, white or grey film.
When there is an injury to the fish it will produce more mucous over the injured area and you can get a cream or white patch on the fish. However, the fish does not appear to have an injury.
This leaves us with external protozoa like Costia, Chilodonella & Trichodina. These parasites attack the fish in different areas and cause the fish to produce cream, white or grey patches on the body. Just like your fish has. Salt is the best treatment for this.
--------------------
SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt) or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.
Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.
The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria, fish, plants, shrimp or snails.
After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.
If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.
When you first add salt, add the salt to a small bucket of tank water and dissolve the salt. then slowly pour the salt water into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.
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