If I were to use water direct from well.....

[Byron]

That is true, but I still caution against it. This method of using aragonite or dolomite or crushed coral will raise pH but not GH or KH. Neale Monks and I went into buffering, and he said it is not safe to attempt buffering with these substances. Without getting into all the details, the issue I had with my barbs was unique, and this was only one aspect we considered in finding the root problem.

I agree shrimp usually need mineral, but I have heard there are some where this is less necessary. I had two clear-looking shrimp that happened to arrive in the bag with pygmy cories, so I put them in the same tank, and they did live for months in very soft pH 5 water. I had no other option, and I thought something would eat them anyway, but they were still there for several months. Don't know what shrimp.

But if sensitive fish like Boraras species are intended, I would not mess around with adding any mineral that they do not appreciate. Move the shrimp before messing with the Boraras environment would be my thinking.

 

[thrujenseyes]

Hey guys! I was away for a few days and just getting back.
First time I left my tank on a timer for lights...I was scared to come home and find it covered with algae or worse.
All was well though!

the 'blackwater' look

As much as I like the look of blackwater in some tanks (usually bigger Amazonian looking Jungle type tanks), I don't think it's right for my tiny little show tank.
My water is so pristine that it really actually looks like there's not a drop in there! I really love looking at everything the way it is.

if someone understands the chemistry involved in their tank,

I do try really hard to understand the chemistry and I read and read and come here when I'm confused or need advice but I don't trust that I'm there yet to be able to truly mix and keep things perfect.
My tank is so tiny and every little inconsistency is catastrophic. I'd really rather not mess with the chemistry if not needed (really only because I just don't fully trust myself).

This method of using aragonite or dolomite or crushed coral will raise pH but not GH or KH

Ohhhhh....see now I thought that it would raise those levels and make them safer for my shrimp and snail...but if that's not the case then I see no need to do this.
I only do it now to keep my remaining endlers (two) happy (which the poor things aren't totally happy).
The GH and KH do rise once inside my tank though...why is that?
Plants?...oh and the bit of tap water I suppose. See how quickly I forget things!

I agree shrimp usually need mineral

I will have to look into this as I really want to keep some shrimp as I've become obsessed with the ones I have now (amano and sunkist) and my nerite snail. Plus they're wonderful little cleaners!
I will look into those stick things and maybe others will have some suggestions at something I can feed them that will help with minerals?

I still have some time to figure this out as my two endlers are still kicking it.

So let me make sure one more time:
Adding Aragonite will not affect the mineral aspect that I'm looking for for shrimp and snail?
Not affect the GH?

 

[eaglesaquarium]

The best move for the shrimp might be the calcium infused veggie sticks from kensfish.

 

[thrujenseyes]

The best move for the shrimp might be the calcium infused veggie sticks from kensfish.

I will definitely be purchasing these in the future! I'll also look into mineral blocks and chola wood...
I just need to be sure they don't have any sort of affect on the water itself.

 

[StevenF]

One thing that worries me is that in this post your bucket outguessing test showed no PH change after several days. A little over a year ago there was a significant change. Also when your well was installed the water was passed through bead of crushed coral. and that changed your water from soft to hard.
this indicates the water was acidic when the well was installed. years ago. I always thought well water was stable.

I now realize your well water is changing. It might be going through seasonal changes due to the weather and plant growth. IT is now less acidic and might have less potassium which would be consistent with the results got last week.

I think your well might be a shallow well. A deep well would probably have slower changes or no changes at all. You might want to start tracking how your well water is changing (PH, GH, and KH).

I still think your best corse of action is to let the water outgas. And when it stabilizes add aragonite to stabilize the PH near 7. Then test the water before using it. You might get result consistent enough for soft water fish. You should test this before you do it in your aquarium.

 

[thrujenseyes]

A little over a year ago there was a significant change.

I still don't remember this happening and did go back thru my notes to find where my well water changed as it sat out. The only thing I can find that this happened with was a bucket of Tap Water that had run thru the softer.
Every test I've found that I've done the Well water tested the lowest on my test kits which is 6.

this indicates the water was acidic when the well was installed. years ago. I always thought well water was stable.

Apparently it's how all of my areas wells are. I've talked to a few people that are fish keepers and they all had the same issues I did.

I think your well might be a shallow well. A deep well would probably have slower changes or no changes at all.

It very well could be. I do know that the wells in my area were not dug deep enough to be considered "safe" from all of the contaminants like spraying and such.
The house I grew up in (5 min away) backed up to a sod field and was often sprayed and almost everyone in that development passed from cancer by the age of 55.
So...they blamed the chemicals seeping into our wells.
When I sold my parents house (because they both passed ...by 54) The new owners made me hire in a company from two states away to dig the well deeper than any company around here would dig.

You might want to start tracking how your well water is changing (PH, GH, and KH).

I most certainly will. I have time. I still have endlers.

And when it stabilizes add aragonite to stabilize the PH near 7.

Even though it doesn't change the gh and kh?
But if I find that my well water is stable I don't need this step...correct?

 

[StevenF]

I still think your best corse of action is to let the water outgas. And when it stabilizes add aragonite to stabilize the PH near 7. Then test the water before using it. You might get result consistent enough for soft water fish. You should test this before you do it in your aquarium.

Even though it doesn't change the gh and kh?
But if I find that my well water is stable I don't need this step...correct?

The Amount of GH and KH change depends on how acidic the water is. if the water has a PH of 7 or more the effect would be barely detectable. If the pH is between 0 and 5 the effect would be substantial. However a PH between 6 and 7 the effect will probably be small enough that the resulting water might still be soft enough for most fresh water fish.

Bay allowing the water to outgas CO2 before putting the aragonite in would allow the PH to stabilize as close as its chemistry will allow to a PH of 7. So hopefully the effect the aragonite will have will be minimal.

 

[thrujenseyes]

The Amount of GH and KH change depends on how acidic the water is. if the water has a PH of 7 or more the effect would be barely detectable. If the pH is between 0 and 5 the effect would be substantial. However a PH between 6 and 7 the effect will probably be small enough that the resulting water might still be soft enough for most fresh water fish.

Bay allowing the water to outgas CO2 before putting the aragonite in would allow the PH to stabilize as close as its chemistry will allow to a PH of 7. So hopefully the effect the aragonite will have will be minimal.

I've read this a bunch of times.
I'm having a hard time making this compute in my brain, but I think I see what you're saying....
GH and KH don't change drastically at and above a ph of 7
but in the very low PH numbers it can swing greatly?

I still don't think my direct well water is extremely low like we once feared.
I believe it's between a 5 and 6 (and am hoping this is true).
The only way to know is to keep testing it, which I'll do.

 

[StevenF]

Testing is the key. you need to outgas some water and then add the aragonite to see what will happen.

 

[thrujenseyes]

Testing is the key. you need to outgas some water and then add the aragonite to see what will happen.

ok!

 

[thrujenseyes]

Just to update, my well water seems to be somewhere between 5-6.
At first dunk of the strip it looks like 5 but changes to what looks like a 6.
So I have to assume it's somewhere in between.

Since this post I started adding well water to my weekly water changes.
They use to be 1/2 distilled and 1/2 tap.
Now they are that plus about 1/4-1/3 well water ...

I wanted to slowly get my plants use to this...and my shrimp and snail.
My endlers (2 remaining) seem to be flourishing with this ...?! Which I thought might be odd since it has to bring the ph down even a little more than they like but maybe the added bit of GH helps them?!

Anyway, I got an email from Aquatic Arts and they just got in a fish that seems like a good fit for me (when I'm ready...which I'm not as I still have endlers).
https://aquaticarts.com/products/gl...152601921&mc_cid=c2935faece&mc_eid=81f22d9aae
Anyone know anything about this Glowlight Rasbora and if it might work down the road in my Well water?

 

[eaglesaquarium]

I've never kept them, but have kept their slightly larger cousins... T. heteromorpha.
T. hengeli have nearly identical needs and will thrive in a planted tank with a sub-7 pH.

http://seriouslyfish.com/species/Trigonostigma-hengeli/

Temperature: 23 – 28 °C
pH: Even though the majority of fish entering the trade are wild caught this species is quite happy within the range 5.0 – 7.5.
Hardness: 18 – 179 ppm

This species seems to do best under fairly dim lighting and plant species from genera such as Microsorum, Taxiphyllum, Cryptocoryne, and Anubias are recommended since they will grow under such conditions. A few patches of floating vegetation to diffuse the light even further may also prove effective.

 

[Byron]

Agree, this is a lovely fish. I have had a shoal of them for several years; their lifespan is said to be 2-3 years on average. Soft water (a GH of 5 or 6 dGH is OK, but no higher), pH preferably on the acidic side as mentioned. Get a largish group; at least 8-9, preferably a few more. They will be more settled. So with the "packs" on the linked site, a school of 12 would be best by far. I've forgotten your tank size now, so that might change this... .

The common name "glowlight" is confusing, as there is another "glowlight" rasbora as well as the glowlight tetra.

This fish shares a very similar pattern with two other rasbora, Trigonostigma heteromorpha and T. espei. The subject species is smaller, the overall body colouration is rather colourless (sort of a gray and sometimes rather transparent) with a bright orange-copper colouration along the anterior and upper sides of the narrower dark mark that is "lambchop" in appearance. A fourth species in the genus, T. somphongsi, has a dark broad stripe [rather than a triangular mark] that runs laterally below an iridescent stripe; that species occurs in the basin and floodplain of the Menam River in Thailand and is very rare.

This species is rarer in the hobby than its two close relatives the Harlequin Rasbora (T. heteromorpha) and Lambchop Rasbora (T. espei) and more demanding of specific water parameters [no problems for you as I mentioned]. This fish does best in a thickly-planted and dimly lit aquarium with a dark substrate; some swimming room is essential. The fish occurs in very slow-moving streams and needs very minimal if any filter flow, otherwise it will struggle and not last.

On your water, you are mixing distilled with tap and with well. I've forgotten...what is the tap water like?

Byron.

 

[thrujenseyes]

but have kept their slightly larger cousins... T. heteromorpha.
T. hengeli

also cute little fish

Get a largish group; at least 8-9, preferably a few more

pushing my limits....

I've forgotten your tank size now, so that might change this... .

It's only a 6 gallon fluval edge (hence looking for the tiniest of the nano fish).
Once ready for new inhabitants (after my remaining endlers pass...not that I'm looking forward to this as I very much adore them)...there will only be one nerite snail, one amano and one sunkist shrimp.

The common name "glowlight" is confusing, as there is another "glowlight" rasbora as well as the glowlight tetra.

I found it confusing as well, but I'm glad I clicked on it because it's a truly beautiful little fish.

This fish does best in a thickly-planted and dimly lit aquarium with a dark substrate; some swimming room is essential. The fish occurs in very slow-moving streams and needs very minimal if any filter flow, otherwise it will struggle and not last.

I'm definitely thickly planted, with one of it's favorite plants (anubias) and TONS of roots that I let go wild.
It's dimly lit because of the over grown anubias.
I also have dark (black) substrate with slow moving current.
What I lack is swimming space as I'm only a 6 gallon. I do keep the front face area of the tank clear for fishes to use as a race track with nothing to break up their swimming space. All plants are middle to back.

On your water, you are mixing distilled with tap and with well. I've forgotten...what is the tap water like?

Correct, I'm mixing all three right now. The well water and tank water parameters are in my original post #1 of this thread.
My Tap on the other hand is kind of ever changing because of the "bullet" in the basement. Depending on where we are in the cycle of the added coral. Right now it's been a while since it's been added so it's probably kind of low. It's usually between 6.2 -7.8 (right now probably 6.4). KH 40, GH 75, chlorine 0, ammonia 0, Nitrites 0 and Nitrates barely above 0 but almost not enough to read 10.
***this changing is the reason I want to not use this water anymore and use straight well water if possible***

 

[Byron]

It's only a 6 gallon fluval edge (hence looking for the tiniest of the nano fish).
Once ready for new inhabitants (after my remaining endlers pass...not that I'm looking forward to this as I very much adore them)...there will only be one nerite snail, one amano and one sunkist shrimp.

Sorry, this is not sufficient tank space for Trigonostigma hengeli. I would not have these in anything less than a 24-inch (60 cm) length tank, a 15g or 20g. They are not active swimmers, true, but they need more space. I cannot imagine them in my 10g. These are not "nano" fish strictly speaking.

For a 6 gallon, I would suggest you stay with the nano fish, like the Boraras species of dwarf rasboras. Ember Tetra would work too.

[Edit, just checked SF and they recommend 60cm tank for T. hengeli too.]