Fishless Cycle...

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StingrayKid

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I know there are many posts about fishless cycling, but I couldn't find any. -_- I want to fishess cycle new tank when I get it. How do I do this without putting fish in the tank? :S
 
Here's the processthat I'm going to do:

THE PROCEDURE
1. Set up the Aquarium: filters, heaters, lights and all. Be sure to dechlorinate/dechoraminate the water.

2. Place the "Ammonia Alert" in the aquarium. It usually needs a day or two to acclimate to the aquarium.

3. Keep the filter running throughout this process.

4. Provide extra aeration if possible. With an outside hang on-the-back power filter, a good way to do this is keep the water level a couple of inches lower than usual so that water falling from the filter makes a bigger splash than usual; the more bubbles breaking on the surface of the water, the more oxygen is in the water, and the bacteria need oxygen to grow. You can raise the water level when you are ready to add fish. Other types of filters may offer other aeration increasing options. Or, the addition of a simple airstone might suffice.

5. If you can, try to keep the temperature of the water up in the low to high eighties (F) for reasons explained above. Remember to adjust the temperature back down to a livable temperature for your fish before adding them.

6. Inoculate your aquarium with bacteria, either by placing some material from an established aquarium or use a commercial bacteria culture. I put a packet or two of Cycle"(tm) in the water. Wait about an hour.

7. Put 3-5 drops of pure ammonia in the tank, or enough ammonia to turn the "Ammonia Alert" dark. If it doesn't darken, add more. Wait for the ammonia alert to go back to a "safe" level. This may take several days. Repeat this many times, each time waiting for the ammonia level to get back to "safe" before adding more ammonia...

8. Continue to put ammonia in the tank until the "Ammonia alert" shows that the ammonia level goes to zero within 8-12 hours after the ammonia is put in. Try putting some in the morning before work and checking when you get home. Once the tank shows the ability to lower the ammonia level in this time interval, this means that a large population of bacteria is resident in your filter. This may take 2 weeks or even more (even four weeks).

9. While the ammonia level is at "safe", test for nitrites. If it shows zero nitrites, proceed to the next step. If it does not, go back to step 8 and repeat step 8 three to four more times and then test again for nitrites.

10. Adjust the heater down to a livable temperature for the fish. Do a very large water change (about 90%), and then you are ready to add fish: you can go to the fish store now. (Remember, only add de chlorinated water of about the same temperature to the tank in order not to stress the bacteria with too drastic a change.)
 
A few Questions about the above:

1-What's "Ammonia Alert"?

2-Do I really need to do a large water change, like it said above? I'm afraid it will kill bacteria. -_- The really hard part is, my tank is going to be a long ways away from my usual water source, the bath tub. My water is filtered for drinking in my house, so if I have to do the change, do I have to decholinate the water before I put it in the tank after I'm done cycling? I've never done this so, it looks pretty tough! :/

3-Could I just go out and buy a long, brand new hose and buy an adapter and hook it up to the focset, that has been purified for drinking and put it right in the tank for the 90% water change? My mom says our water has absolutely no chlorine in it.

I really need some help! :sad:
 
Actually if I were you, I would follow the "alternative recipe" in the first link. That seems to be the most popular method, and I've done it a couple times and it only took 2 weeks. I've never tried the method you described, which I believe you took out of the 2nd link, but I'm sure it will work too.

Basically the alternative recipe says to add enough ammonia to bring the level up to 5 ppm. Make note of the amount of ammonia you added, and add that amount daily 'til the nitrite spikes. Once it spikes, cut the amount of ammo you add daily in half. Once the ammo and nitrite fall to zero, do the big water change to reduce the nitrates. Don't worry about killing the bacteria because the majority of it lives in the filter and on surfaces in the tank.

Ammonia Alert is a guage made by SeaChem that attaches to the inside of the aquarium and measures the ammonia level. Never seen on in the stores, but there's a pic of i in the 2nd link. You really don't need this though, you should invest in ammo, nitrite, and nitrate test kits so you know what the ppm is.

Yes, you could use the hose as you described. You might want to invest in a Python, which is a hose that attaches to your faucet. You can vacuum and fill with it. Very handy device... no buckets needed.

I'd like to add that I disagree with the use of the Cycle product. I don't think it does any good. Adding gravel or filter media from an established tank will help though !!

Good luck with whichever method you choose!
 
I'll probably buy that python you're talking about. But the whole process confuses me. :X Can I buy Ammonia and Nitrates in like a little bottle at a LFS?
 
You can buy ammonia at WalMart or the hardware store (like Menard's, Fleet Farm, Home Depot, Lowe's... whatever you have there). Make sure it's clear colorless sudsless ammonia... shake the bottle, and if it foams, don't buy it!

Sorry, you can't buy nitrates! Nitrates are something that form as the end result of the nitrogen process. We start with ammonia, the nitrifying bacteria converts it to nitrites, and then the nitrafying bacteria converts it to nitrates.

Sorry you're confused! Let us know if you have any other specific questions!
 
That would be my recommendation because I've done it that way and I know it works, and it's supposed to be quicker than the method in link 2.
 
Thanks! :D I'll keep posting about the new tank. I should be setting it up near the end of this month. :)
 
heresmike said:
Here are a couple links that should help you out. I definitely think it's the way to go. Good luck!



fishless cycling



fishless cycling
Okay, this post is REALLY old, but, I'm very close to getting my 55 gallon tank. I've ordered a Python cleaning kit to help me out with the large tank, and I'll have the money set aside for it in about two weeks. I am going to use the first method that HeresMike showed me.(It's the top link quoted) But anyways, my question is: What do I do when I start adding 1/2 the ammonia I started with to get it to 5ppm, after the nitrates spike? The alternative recipe just leaves it off there. Do I know i'm done when there is no nitrates or Ammonia left? I extremely confused so PLEASE help me! :S
 
You should note how much ammonia you have to add to reach 5ppm initially. Then add that much every day until you see nitrItes. At that point, halve your dose and continue to add the half dose every day until the ammonia and nitrIte are both at zero. You may want to add a little fish food at several points in the cycle to ensure that the bacteria which convert organic wastes are established as well. Once ammonia and nitrIte are zero, do water changes until the nitrAtes are reasonable, i shoot for less than 20ppm personally. Then add your fish.
 
luxum said:
Once ammonia and nitrIte are zero, do water changes until the nitrAtes are reasonable, i shoot for less than 20ppm personally.
I've never tested for "nitrAtes". How do I test for those?
 
Fishless cycling is deffinatly the best way to go however I have never fully cycled any of my tanks before adding fish (I have 7 tanks) and have only lost 3 fish out of 73. (2 of natural causes, one died after i accidently miscalculated how much tap safe to add to the water during water change.

Ben
 

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