Cyanobacteria - Blue-Green Algae (BGA)

[George Farmer]

I haven't contacted my water supplier yet. Where do you live?

 

[George Farmer]

Just a thought but wouldn't the PO4 level be higher through the tap than at the supply end. I would think the water may take up phosphates from the pipe's protective coatings - or am I talking rubbish?

 

[iggy01]

I haven't contacted my water supplier yet. Where do you live?

I live in the Warrington area... Cheshire.

 

[Dubby]

Sorry to hear about the cyano gf225. Wish your tank a speedy recovery!

 

[iggy01]

Just a thought but wouldn't the PO4 level be higher through the tap than at the supply end. I would think the water may take up phosphates from the pipe's protective coatings - or am I talking rubbish?

Phosphates are added at the supply end, initially to prevent corrosion. They are now added at higher levels to counteract lead in the water. Phosphates in the water supply will only increase in years to come, as water companies will be given stricter targets for lead levels in the supply.

 

[George Farmer]

So I was talking rubbish then, thought so. Cheers Iggy.

 

[iggy01]

So I was talking rubbish then, thought so. Cheers Iggy.

No! I didn't say you were talking rubbish

There's bound to be phosphate in the old pipework also.

 

[George Farmer]

So I was talking rubbish then, thought so.  Cheers Iggy.

No! I didn't say you were talking rubbish

There's bound to be phosphate in the old pipework also.

No worries pal.

Anyway the upshot is I'm not going to use RowaPhos and I'm going to dose KNO3 to get a constant 10-15 mg/l NO3 - probably by adding KNO3 two or three times a week until I reach a consistency. My Dennerle ferts should look after the other nutrients.

Thanks for the earlier Redfield Ratio link BTW - you led me down the right track I reckon.

Hopefully I'll be BGA free long-term

 

[stevensdrs]

I suffered from cyanobacteria some months ago. After much research the conclusion had to be to kill it off with Maracyn (bought mail order from US for about £6.00) After a week it was gone. It has never returned.!!!
I also stopped using tap water ( I use filtered rainwater with a PH of 6.8 ) and included Rowaphos in the filter.
The fish are happy, multiplying all the time, but thats another problem. The plants are doing really well and the lights are on 11 hours per day.

 

[spiffymeister]

Had them too, with ym 75 gallon. It pretty much disappeared after my tank matured.

My one tip will probably to stop fertilizing since its probalby an excess in nutrients. If al else failsd, use an antibiotic that will kill it.

 

[George Farmer]

My one tip will probably to stop fertilizing since its probalby an excess in nutrients. If al else failsd, use an antibiotic that will kill it.

Thanks for the tip but if you read through this entire thread you'll understand more on the reasons why I haven't done that. In part I put the outbreak down to an actual LACK in nutrients - Nitrates mainly.

Welcome to the Forum BTW.

 

[spiffymeister]

Oh, then I suggest not to do too much water changes. Plants love fishwastes especially ammonia.

Or, feed the fishes more(Use food that doesnt have too much phosphate). Rotting foodstuff disintegrate to ammonia which the plants prefer over nitrates. If your plants are healthy enough(and I think I read that you have a hightech tank?), they should suck in the ammonia as they are being released so your little fishies won't be hurt.

And thanks for the warm reception.

 

[Grey Legion]

I have been fighting a BGA problem for a few months now...a plant clipping from my old tank started it in my new tank ( silly me )

I have tried everything listed here..

- removed all infected plants
- stopped any ferts
- limited lighting
- removed any growth on sand ( by sucking out the sand )
- added new fresh plants ( that are growing really nice )

my last resort is meds ( since I am actually winning ) I want to wipe it out for good..

I have completed my first dose and actually see things getting better, any green on the sand is gone and the slime on the leaves seams to be falling off and kinda turning black ( which I hope means dead )

I am now on my 2nd and last dose as per the instructions and of course will post results from what I find..

All my fish and plants are doing well and I am sure things will return to normal..

I would not wish this Problem on anyone..

 

[George Farmer]

Oh, then I suggest not to do too much water changes. Plants love fishwastes especially ammonia.

Or, feed the fishes more(Use food that doesnt have too much phosphate). Rotting foodstuff disintegrate to ammonia which the plants prefer over nitrates. If your plants are healthy enough(and I think I read that you have a hightech tank?), they should suck in the ammonia as they are being released so your little fishies won't be hurt.

And thanks for the warm reception.

Thanks again for the advice but -

1. I prefer frequent water changes for a few reasons; to dilute alleochemicals produced by my plants otherwise I become limited to growing only a few select species (you know this as you have read Diana Walstad). I also fertilise quite heavily so the water changes ensure that I don't overload with ferts. One final reason for the large water changes is that I believe the fish and plants benefit from the fresh water (RO/tap mix). My tap water contains a lot of the trace elements required by the plants as well as magnesium, calcium and phosphates. If I did not change with this tap water regularly then these nutrients would become deficient over time. I add ferts as mentioned but also vitamins and other conditioners to improve the water quality. The regularity of the water changes ensures that all these additives are dosed in a controlled volume.

2. The fish are fed very well on a variety of dry and frozen foods. I try not to overfeed as this leads to snail infestation, surface scum and hair algae (I already have experience of these due to overfeeding - a mistake made in the early days).

I understand you have read Diana Walstad's "Ecology of the Planted Aquarium" and your advice reflects this but remember that her principles are more relevant for low-tech tanks with relatively low-light, soil-based substrate (no heater cable), no additional CO2, very infrequent water changes and slow plant growth.

My tank on the otherhand as you have mentioned is high-tech. 3 Watts per Gallon of high-output fluorescent, CO2 injection, Dennerle substrate with heater cable etc. and fast plant growth.

I appreciate you are trying to help so thank you - I just feel the advice isn't relevant for my set-up.

It is good to know someone who is willing to share their knowledge - you obviously have a good understanding having read Walstad's book. Do you run a low-tech set-up yourself? I am currently (very slowly) planning a low-tech 20 Gallon.

 

[iggy01]

I understand you have read Diana Walstad's "Ecology of the Planted Aquarium" and your advice reflects this but remember that her principles are more relevant for low-tech tanks with relatively low-light, soil-based substrate (no heater cable), no additional CO2, very infrequent water changes and slow plant growth.

My tank on the otherhand as you have mentioned is high-tech.  3 Watts per Gallon of high-output fluorescent, CO2 injection, Dennerle substrate with heater cable etc. and fast plant growth.

That's a good point!

"Horses for courses" and all that!