300w Mh Lights Overkill?
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2x150? how long is the tank?
Probably not overkill. I know someone who runs two 150's over a 29g nano cube...
Probably not overkill. I know someone who runs two 150's over a 29g nano cube...
Dual 150watt halides over a tank with those dimensions is not overkill at all. Its on the higher end of normal and will allow you to keep clams, nems, and easier sps provided halfway decent reflectors are used.
Btw, in the future refer to it as "101cm long, 40 wide, and 50 high". The term "deep" is confusing, as some thing of it as depth front to back and others think of it as depth of water which is the same as top to bottom
Btw, in the future refer to it as "101cm long, 40 wide, and 50 high". The term "deep" is confusing, as some thing of it as depth front to back and others think of it as depth of water which is the same as top to bottom
Matthew5664
Fish Herder
I have 500W MH over mine 230+ l tank so I'm with SKi. On the high side but not overkill.
I've seen someone run dual 400s over a 90g tank... That was overkill
OP
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AK77
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Okay, I've got another light coming. Damn thing cost me £35 delivered 2nd hand. Yet I got a brand new one for £25 the other day. The highs and lows of eBay .
I'm going to be constructing a wooden canopy, with fans, to replace the current lighting system (juwel rio and an Aqua one PL Compact T5 bulbs probably up for sale soonish)
That's what the floodlights look like.
This is the design of the hood and sump. There will be two 80mm intake fans on the side and two 120mm exhaust fans on top. The Prism protein skimmer will be placed on the side of the sump, until such times as when I can afford a submersible one. I'll also be installing a perspex sheet across the tank, with two hinged flaps to access. The top of the canopy will have a hinged middle.
Any comments or suggestions welcomed
.I'm going to be constructing a wooden canopy, with fans, to replace the current lighting system (juwel rio and an Aqua one PL Compact T5 bulbs probably up for sale soonish)
That's what the floodlights look like.
This is the design of the hood and sump. There will be two 80mm intake fans on the side and two 120mm exhaust fans on top. The Prism protein skimmer will be placed on the side of the sump, until such times as when I can afford a submersible one. I'll also be installing a perspex sheet across the tank, with two hinged flaps to access. The top of the canopy will have a hinged middle.
Any comments or suggestions welcomed
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AK77
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Hi Guys,
One of the lights arrived today (other should be here tomorrow). They are pretty hefty (6kg), on account of their internal ballast, ignitor and capacitor (although that saves me buggering about trying to wire the individual components up myself). All I need to do is hook up the lights to a plug socket using some 5-10mm 3 core wire.
I have a problem though and was wondering if anyone here could help. I can't seem to find anywhere on the instructions as to what size fuse to put in the plug socket? Unfortunately it doesn't mention a fuse anywhere.
The only things that are mentioned in a table on the back of the instructions sheet is the following:
Voltage 230V
Start Current 1.20a
Nom. Current 0.82a
Circuit Watts 170
Any help is greatly appreciated. I'd like to avoid a little mushroom cloud over my town lol
AK
One of the lights arrived today (other should be here tomorrow). They are pretty hefty (6kg), on account of their internal ballast, ignitor and capacitor (although that saves me buggering about trying to wire the individual components up myself). All I need to do is hook up the lights to a plug socket using some 5-10mm 3 core wire.
I have a problem though and was wondering if anyone here could help. I can't seem to find anywhere on the instructions as to what size fuse to put in the plug socket? Unfortunately it doesn't mention a fuse anywhere.
The only things that are mentioned in a table on the back of the instructions sheet is the following:
Voltage 230V
Start Current 1.20a
Nom. Current 0.82a
Circuit Watts 170
Any help is greatly appreciated. I'd like to avoid a little mushroom cloud over my town lol
AK
Well, where you go from here depends a lot on your DIY skills. Your sketches all look like decent ideas although implimenting them is always the challenge now isnt it?
TBH, wiring the ballasts remotely will save you lots of heating problems as most magnetic ballasted 150watt halides get really hot running ballasts. You pretty much just run longer wires between the bulb and the ballast than are there currently, although keep them relatively thick.
TBH, wiring the ballasts remotely will save you lots of heating problems as most magnetic ballasted 150watt halides get really hot running ballasts. You pretty much just run longer wires between the bulb and the ballast than are there currently, although keep them relatively thick.
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AK77
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Hi Ski,
I had thought about the heat issue with regard to the ballasts etc, but since they are so neatly tucked away I'll probably just leave them be. The canopy will have 4 fans in it to remove heat and I'll be installing a perspex panel(s) over the strut brace of the tank to deal with evapouration. I was also considering applying a sheet of aluminum over the lid of the canopy to protect it against heat, although I'm hoping the extractor fans will remove the need for this.
I'm still at a loss as to what size amp to put in the plug though??
I had thought about the heat issue with regard to the ballasts etc, but since they are so neatly tucked away I'll probably just leave them be. The canopy will have 4 fans in it to remove heat and I'll be installing a perspex panel(s) over the strut brace of the tank to deal with evapouration. I was also considering applying a sheet of aluminum over the lid of the canopy to protect it against heat, although I'm hoping the extractor fans will remove the need for this.
I'm still at a loss as to what size amp to put in the plug though??
No lid for the tank, you Need evaporation when using halides in an enclosed canopy. Heat energy is heat energy and while putting a perspex lid on the tank will slow the progression of heat into the tank, over time the temperature will climb and then you'll be scrambling with ways to cool it. You want to take advantage of the powers of evaporation to allow it to cool your tank efficiently. And trust me, these things get HOT. Hang one somewheres and run it for an hour... Then be careful and start touching the back of it. We're talking scalding or burning hot. Not good for your tank, or for the wood used to build the hood.
As for the fuse size, will the socket just be accomidating the two halide lights? If so, double the starting current for 2.4amps and then go up to say 3amps. Not sure if you can find a 3amp fuse, and if not, a 5 will do. If you've got other items on the socket, you'll have to go with a higher fuse rating...
As for the fuse size, will the socket just be accomidating the two halide lights? If so, double the starting current for 2.4amps and then go up to say 3amps. Not sure if you can find a 3amp fuse, and if not, a 5 will do. If you've got other items on the socket, you'll have to go with a higher fuse rating...
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AK77
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Hi Ski,
I've repositioned the tank. Took me about an hour or so to do it but, now the tank is up against the wall more, in a better position. I think I'm going to skip the canopy all together as I can now mount the MH flood lights directly onto the wall using the bracket provided. I'm going to get some heavy duty raw plugs tomorrow and some nice long thick pan head screws too, as I don't want these buggers falling off the wall onto the tank, since they weigh 6kg each!
This should solve any heat and evapouration issues. Each light will have its own socket. However, I'd like to wire up a switch on each as well. I was planning on fitting them with an IEC mains socket (Kettle Lead) and putting together a little project box using these below.
The box
In which two of these will be fitted
Lights will be wired with the IEC mains fitting (right angled for space saving)
Two cables (3 core) from the project box to the mains supply will each pass through a cable gland to prevent accidental water intake
The whole thing will then be positioned on the back of the tank, using velcro strips for easy removal if necessary, allowing me to simply reach round and power on/off the lights. Well that's the plan anyway. I'll do a little guide on it when all the stuff is here if anyone is interested.
I think I may have some 3A fuses in a draw somewhere. If not I'll buy some and see how it goes from there.
Thanks again
I've repositioned the tank. Took me about an hour or so to do it but, now the tank is up against the wall more, in a better position. I think I'm going to skip the canopy all together as I can now mount the MH flood lights directly onto the wall using the bracket provided. I'm going to get some heavy duty raw plugs tomorrow and some nice long thick pan head screws too, as I don't want these buggers falling off the wall onto the tank, since they weigh 6kg each!
This should solve any heat and evapouration issues. Each light will have its own socket. However, I'd like to wire up a switch on each as well. I was planning on fitting them with an IEC mains socket (Kettle Lead) and putting together a little project box using these below.
The box
In which two of these will be fitted
Lights will be wired with the IEC mains fitting (right angled for space saving)
Two cables (3 core) from the project box to the mains supply will each pass through a cable gland to prevent accidental water intake
The whole thing will then be positioned on the back of the tank, using velcro strips for easy removal if necessary, allowing me to simply reach round and power on/off the lights. Well that's the plan anyway. I'll do a little guide on it when all the stuff is here if anyone is interested.
I think I may have some 3A fuses in a draw somewhere. If not I'll buy some and see how it goes from there.
Thanks again
OP
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AK77
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Well today started off badly and got progressively worse, which is pretty much the norm for me. I ordered a drill and some other tools from Screwfix.com. They arrived today. I signed for the box and took it upstairs to open it. As I slit it open I saw on the sticker in 5mm text "1 of 2". 
"Nooooo" I thought. I quickly ran downstairs, opened the door, but the driver had gone
. I was missing a table saw and a Dewalt sds drill bit. The annoying/worrying thing was that I'd signed the damn delivery note. I quickly got on the phone to screwfix and explained the situation. They were very helpful and got onto the problem right away. They phoned me back about 90 minutes later. Apparently both boxes had been despatched but only one seemed to have been tracked into a local hub. Hopefully it will get delivered tomorrow with the drill bit. If not I might be down £40 because the carrier could claim that they have a signed document, although Screwfix already told me that only one box was tracked in, so hopefully all will be well. :touches wood:
I was waiting all day for the postman. Finally the red van pulled up outside. "My stuff" I thought. I was expecting the side door to be opened an a big box heading my way. What I got was 3 envelopes . No damn light or RO unit 
. Mind you, even if the other MH had of arrived, I still had no sodding drill bit to mount it on the wall with anyway. The drill is pretty sweet though. A Ryobi SDS drill. Normally £80+ I got it for £50 I think it was. I was terrorizing my nephew with it earlier.
Anyhoo, I was wondering what rating lamps to go for in the lights (if and when the other one bloody well arrives). I have an Osram 150w MH pure white lamp, which has no mention of its Kelvin. Whats K rating best for coraline and corals? Would 2 of the same or a mix of 2 be better? Is there a noticeable difference having two of different ratings?
Many thanks,
A sorely p!$$ed off AK
"Nooooo" I thought. I quickly ran downstairs, opened the door, but the driver had gone
. I was missing a table saw and a Dewalt sds drill bit. The annoying/worrying thing was that I'd signed the damn delivery note. I quickly got on the phone to screwfix and explained the situation. They were very helpful and got onto the problem right away. They phoned me back about 90 minutes later. Apparently both boxes had been despatched but only one seemed to have been tracked into a local hub. Hopefully it will get delivered tomorrow with the drill bit. If not I might be down £40 because the carrier could claim that they have a signed document, although Screwfix already told me that only one box was tracked in, so hopefully all will be well. :touches wood: I was waiting all day for the postman. Finally the red van pulled up outside. "My stuff" I thought
. I was expecting the side door to be opened an a big box heading my way. What I got was 3 envelopes . No damn light or RO unit . Mind you, even if the other MH had of arrived, I still had no sodding drill bit to mount it on the wall with anyway. The drill is pretty sweet though. A Ryobi SDS drill. Normally £80+ I got it for £50 I think it was. I was terrorizing my nephew with it earlier.Anyhoo, I was wondering what rating lamps to go for in the lights (if and when the other one bloody well arrives). I have an Osram 150w MH pure white lamp, which has no mention of its Kelvin. Whats K rating best for coraline and corals? Would 2 of the same or a mix of 2 be better? Is there a noticeable difference having two of different ratings?
Many thanks,
A sorely p!$$ed off AK
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