Will This Work For A Set Up?

ok an addition to the previous post, i realized that KH was alkalinity, but on your hcart it only goes up to liek 20.0 i think, and i think my alkalinty is at 40.0 :( BUTTTTTTTTTTTTT i have to redo my co2 so that will lower it a lot. I got a seachem lower ph kit so my ph is at 7.0 :) i also bought some yeast, so i am ready to go, just give me instructions lol :) thanks by the way for all your help gf, youve been a great help and inpiration!
 
KH is measured in mg/l or ppm and degrees. 17.9ppm = 1 degree. The chart is in degrees - most kits measure in ppm. Just divide the ppm by 17.9 to get degrees.

Do a Google search (i.e. "aquarium water chemistry") for a better understanding of KH and water chemsitry in general. You need to understand the basics IMO before getting into planted tanks

I wouldn't have two breaks in the photoperiod - one is fine. 5-2-5 works fine.

Stick with 3 units - less maintenance than four.

Biowheels are bad for planted tanks as they drive off CO2 - the less water movement/surface agitation the better.
 
the reason i got four was because ofmy biowheel, i heard that it is bad for plants. thanks for the help! I will keep you posted on how good it does :)

also if i put in a ph -> 7.0 powder, will using the co2 drop it below 7.0, because i dont want it that low :/
 
ok so this is my set up right now

WPG : 2.1-2.5
pH: 7.0
KH: 180
co2 (compared from chart) : 30.0ppm :)

I have 3 co2 ystems running as of right now, they have been adjusted as you said (only half a teaspoon per canister) and will be running within 18 hours hopefullyanything else you need to know for comments, critisism, or objections?
 
Adding a pH buffer is pointless - they contain very high levels of phosphates (algae) and you won't be able to test for CO2 as the phosphate messes with your KH reading. Even if your pH dropped below 7 it is not a problem - most tropical fish prefer slightly acidic environments.

Your pH will only drop below 7.0 if your CO2 goes above 30ppm with your KH level (180ppm = 10 dKH). This is doubtful using my suggested recipe - if it does then just use less yeast next time.

If possible I would run your filter without the biowheel - if and when you get good plant growth then this will more than deal with your nitrogen cycle.

Not only does the biowheel cause excess surface agitation thus driving off CO2 but they also create a highly oxidised environment - basically this is bad for many nutrients as they become useless once oxidised.
 
ok ill do a water change in the morning, but what about my biological filtration, my cannister has no bio, and if i take off my wheel then i get no bio, i understand when my plants are ok i can use them, but what o i do in the meantime? I will get rid of the buffer, i just wanted good ppm for my co2, if my ph is at 7.6, what do i do to get to my 30ppm?
 

Most reactions

Back
Top