Whity Patch On Red Fin

OMA

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My red fin shark, which i got about a week ago, has a little bit of a whitey-greyish, patch on his face, It's not on it's eys or mouth, but it appears to be a liitle larger unless i'm bieng paranoid.

The patch is not fluffy by any means, but the sharks seems a little cranky and i can't really quarantine him easily.

Just wandering whether this was a fungal thing, or if it's that colmnari stuff, pics that i've seen of the colm don't look like this but this may be an early stage. Have no good pic or ability to get one, please help i'm getting worried :( :( .

The other fish with him show no signs of this at all, and show no signs of stress.
Water has no ammonia, no nitrite, and about 15mg/L nitrate.
 
I think you are dealing with columnaris, no flicking and rubbing against objects, what do the gills look like.
http://www.aquatic-hobbyist.com/profiles/d...columnaris.html

I think it's in it's early stages as well as columnaris can show in patches, not he writer of this information below.
Columnaris)Cotton Wool Disease- This is highly contagious caused by a bacterium. It spreads through the water and can be transferred by nets and other aquarium equipment. The bacteria enters the fish's body, especially via wounds and small abrasions. They then multiply quickly to produce the characteristic symptoms. This is very widespread in freshwater fish, especially livebearers. Symptoms- A grayish white film develops over the fish's skin, particularly on the head region, but also on fins, gills and body. The fish could have sore(s) that are red on the outside and white on the inside. As the disease progresses, the body may become ulcerated, fins frayed, and the lips and front of the head can be eaten away. Treatment- This disease is very virulent and must be treated immediately. Fish that are affected around the mouth may die within 24 hours. Antibacterial compounds are effective. The best way to avoid the disease is to keep your fish in clean, healthy conditions and add a small quantity of salt to the water. top
 
I think you are dealing with columnaris, no flicking and rubbing against objects, what do the gills look like.

The gills are fine. Woke this morning to see that one of my rummy nose has the same on him, and come back today at 7 to see that the rummy has white spot, i have now isolated him and the shark, and will treat it, will also use salt.

What do i use to combat colmnaris? :huh:
 
If they look like they have been sprinkled in salt they have whitespot, i would medicate for this, the grey white patches also can indicate a parasite infection, so it might be this, so see if it clears up with the whitespot med, good luck.

Sone info for you, that's why i wanted to no if they were flicking and rubbing against objects, as patches can mean either bacterial like columnaris or parasite, not the writer of this information below.

Ich (a.k.a. White Spot)



Symptoms:

Fish infected with Ich will have pure white, salt-like spots approximately 1 millimeter in size on their body and fins. Fins are most often affected first. If their gills become infected, the fish will show increased gill movements. These white spots, or cysts, may join together to form irregular white patches. If left untreated, the spots will slowly advance to cover the whole body and fins (6-24 hours). Fish with Ich may rub or scrape on rocks or gravel in an attempt to relieve irritation. Redness and blood streaks will appear on both the body and fins as the condition worsens. Its fins will deteriorate as the parasites burrow into the flesh destroying it. Fishes that are infected do not show early sickliness, and may even continue feeding lightly.



Cause:

The parasite Ichthyophthirius multifilis. Ichtyophthirius has a direct fish-to-fish cycle and thus can build up quickly in the limited space of an aquarium. Each white spot seen is actually a single living, feeding parasite attached to the fish’s skin. When first attached, these parasites are not yet visible to the naked eye. After feeding on the body fluids of the fish for a couple of days, the parasites become encysted and are then visible on the fish as small white spots. After several days the parasites break free from the fish and fall to the bottom of the aquarium where they begin to reproduce rapidly. Within 24 hours each cyst can contain up to 500 new parasites. When the cyst breaks open hundreds of free-swimming parasites are released into the water. These new parasites then seek out a host (fish) to attach themselves to and feed on. These parasites can only be killed when in the free-swimming stage. Seondary bacterial infections are common.



Treatment:

Carry out a 25%-40% partial water change and treat immediately with either Quick Cure (which is highly effective), or Rid-Ich, Rid-Ick+, Ick Guard, Ick Guard II, Clout and Super Ick Cure. In very hard water the treatment should be performed two times a day, in the early morning and late at night. Since the protozoan, while attached to the host is immune to treatment, this has to be aimed against the free swimming stages. Slowly raising the water temperature to 90 degrees (if the fish can tolerate it) for a few hours every 2 or 3 days may be effective.

Ich is highly contagious, therefore, the entire aquarium and not just a single fish should be treated.
 
Thanks a lot man, am now medicating.

I guess that there is no longer a need to isolate the shark????

can i let him back in at all?
 
Yes i would you have to medicate the whole tank anyway.Good luck.
 
Quick update.
all fish still alive
medicating proceding (obviously)
 
Good, good luck.
 

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