White Spot Treatment

stiffler69

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My female endlers have little white blemish's on their fins ive currently been treating the tank with myxazin because i first thought it could be a little fin rot, problems has persisted and gotten worse today so what is the next step i can take to treat them thanks.

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My female endlers have little white blemish's on their fins ive currently been treating the tank with myxazin because i first thought it could be a little fin rot, problems has persisted and gotten worse today so what is the next step i can take to treat them thanks.

Raise the temperature by a degree or two - if they don't show any improvement within a day or two, try some methylene blue :)
 
My female endlers have little white blemish's on their fins ive currently been treating the tank with myxazin because i first thought it could be a little fin rot, problems has persisted and gotten worse today so what is the next step i can take to treat them thanks.

Raise the temperature by a degree or two - if they don't show any improvement within a day or two, try some methylene blue :)

Raise the temp by a degree or two so that the ich's (if it is ich) lifecycle goes faster? Most strains of ich don't die until you hit around 85 degrees F (and some don't die until you get to the 90's), so unless the tank was already at 83 or so, this isn't going to help.

First and foremost, stiffler, you need to make sure it is ich. Most ich medicines are pretty harsh and you don't need to subject your fish to it unnecessarily. Ich doesn't usually show up as "blemishes" it will look very much like little grains of salt on the fish's body. If the fins are just discolored or eroded, it is in all likelihood not ich. If it is unclear, I think that it is probably best to wait a few hours or even a few days, if it is ich, you'll know soon enough.

Best yet, take a picture and post it on here.

Also, if it is ich, it is best to know thy enemy. There still is not a better collection of ich information (including debunking a lot of the myths that are still commonly believed) that here: [URL="http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/health/ich.shtml"]http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/docs/health/ich.shtml[/URL]

even if it turns out that your fish don't have ich, I think that that webpage is still a very good read. It is almost inevitable that you stick with the hobby long enough that some fish you bring home will have ich, so it is best to know what to do before you are presented with the problem, rather than try to figure it out when you are in the middle of fighting it.
 
Raise the temp by a degree or two so that the ich's (if it is ich) lifecycle goes faster? Most strains of ich don't die until you hit around 85 degrees F (and some don't die until you get to the 90's), so unless the tank was already at 83 or so, this isn't going to help.

I was going by personal experience and I've definitely had my fair share of ich problems :)
 
pic in first post thanks for help upto now temp increase a little bit
 
Raise the temp by a degree or two so that the ich's (if it is ich) lifecycle goes faster? Most strains of ich don't die until you hit around 85 degrees F (and some don't die until you get to the 90's), so unless the tank was already at 83 or so, this isn't going to help.

I was going by personal experience and I've definitely had my fair share of ich problems :)

Martin, it's just that it doesn't make much sense to only raise the temp. Now, raising the temp while adding medication is a good idea. Like I said, the raised temperature will make ich go through it's lifecycle faster, which means with the medicine inthe tank, the ich gets to its vulnerable life stage faster and hence dies faster. But, just raising the temperature a degree or two will only increase the speed of ich's lifecycle and infect the fish faster. I don't see how that helps. Like I said, also, there are some strains vulnerable to death via heat, but usually only a degree of two isn't going to be enough to get into the heat death zone. Even then, there are some strains of ich that don't die until the tank gets very, very hot, so temperature alone is in no way guaranteed to work.



stiffler, the picture isn't very clear.

The question at hand -- does it look like little grains of salt on the tail, or it is discolorations in the fins?

Are there any white spots anywhere else at all?
 
I agree it dosn't sound like whitespot.
Need more info as the pic hard to see.
Can you describe the the blemish in more detail.
 
Raise the temp by a degree or two so that the ich's (if it is ich) lifecycle goes faster? Most strains of ich don't die until you hit around 85 degrees F (and some don't die until you get to the 90's), so unless the tank was already at 83 or so, this isn't going to help.

I was going by personal experience and I've definitely had my fair share of ich problems :)

Martin, it's just that it doesn't make much sense to only raise the temp. Now, raising the temp while adding medication is a good idea. Like I said, the raised temperature will make ich go through it's lifecycle faster, which means with the medicine inthe tank, the ich gets to its vulnerable life stage faster and hence dies faster. But, just raising the temperature a degree or two will only increase the speed of ich's lifecycle and infect the fish faster. I don't see how that helps. Like I said, also, there are some strains vulnerable to death via heat, but usually only a degree of two isn't going to be enough to get into the heat death zone. Even then, there are some strains of ich that don't die until the tank gets very, very hot, so temperature alone is in no way guaranteed to work.



stiffler, the picture isn't very clear.

The question at hand -- does it look like little grains of salt on the tail, or it is discolorations in the fins?

Are there any white spots anywhere else at all?

Hi it appears to be only on their fins however i have witness them rubbing against the substrate and bogwood so this would indicate that it could be ick, and yes i would say it looks like grains of salt, i did raise the temp to 28.2 degrees but my plecs and corys didnt seem to keen on this as they seemed a little disressed so ive gotten it back down to 27 and done a water change the plecs seem happier, is it worth me continueing treatment with myxazin or should i get some ick treatment tomorrow thanks.
 
Water stats would be good in ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and ph.
Bad water quality can make fish flick and rub.
If it looks like a grain of salt yes it is whitepot, also whitespot if left untreated the spots can start to join up to form a patch.

Myxazin is a bacterial med, if looks like grains of salt you will need anti whitespot med by interpet.
Raise temp to 30.
Increase aeration as high temp and med reduce 02 in the water.
Remove black carbon if you use it.
 
I dont have a test kit i normally get my local store to do my testing and this is a new tank with old meadia so not been tested yet but, its running on a filter i used in my old tank and the water from my old tank, im doing daily water changes and just done one as i understand they could still be a mini cycle with it been new.

Ill get some white spot treatment tomorrow and i do have a airstone but its not on at the moment due to not having enough plugs ill get a splitter and get it running.

Also 30 degrees c is highe will my corys and bristlenose plecs like this as they seemed a little upset at 28 degrees

Thanks for all the help and i will purchase the medication tomorrow thanks.
 
Make sure you think its whitespot before you treat.
Whitespot looks like the fish has been sprinkled in salt.
Corys and plecs don't tolerate parasite meds to well, so it best to half dose the whitespot med with them being scaless fish.
It will take longer with only half dosing.
As long as there is plenty of aeration in the tank they will be fine.
I would get your airstone running.
Unplug the light for now.
 

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