What is wrong with my sons fish?

julibob

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I have been treating my sons black moor for what I thought was velvet with Protozin, and completed the course yesterday. I did everything I should have, e.g. remove active carbon. It still looks as bad as it did, and it sitting at the bottom of the tank, all lifeless. The external symptoms are what looks like a dusting of talcum powder all over, even on his eyes! The condition has not improved at all. Water stats are:

Ph 7.2
Ammonia 0
Nitrites 0
Nitrates 2.5

Is there anything else it could be other than velvet? It is definitely not ich. He has also lost a scale somewhere along the line.

I don't know what else to do now. Hope someone has some bright ideas, because I am all out of them now. If this fish dies he will be devastated.

Julia
 
Talcum powder? The spots are white? White spots mean ich. Try rasing the temp a bit if you can and adding some salt.
 
Any sign of flicking and rubbing does it look slimey, no cotton patches on him, is there any whitness between the scales, how many gallons is the tank, do you have anymore fish in there with the blackmoor, is he heavy breathing.
 
I really do not think it is ich. They are not spots, it is a complete film of minute grains. No flicking or rubbing, no sliminess, not cotton patches, no whiteness between the scales, just this powdery covering. The tank is 7 UK gallons, and yes I know the moor will get too big, but as he grows he will be housed in my 29 gallon as I will upgrade! :D

Julia
 
Not the writer of this information below.

Ich (a.k.a. White Spot)



Symptoms:

Fish infected with Ich will have pure white, salt-like spots approximately 1 millimeter in size on their body and fins. Fins are most often affected first. If their gills become infected, the fish will show increased gill movements. These white spots, or cysts, may join together to form irregular white patches. If left untreated, the spots will slowly advance to cover the whole body and fins (6-24 hours). Fish with Ich may rub or scrape on rocks or gravel in an attempt to relieve irritation. Redness and blood streaks will appear on both the body and fins as the condition worsens. Its fins will deteriorate as the parasites burrow into the flesh destroying it. Fishes that are infected do not show early sickliness, and may even continue feeding lightly.



Cause:

The parasite Ichthyophthirius multifilis. Ichtyophthirius has a direct fish-to-fish cycle and thus can build up quickly in the limited space of an aquarium. Each white spot seen is actually a single living, feeding parasite attached to the fish’s skin. When first attached, these parasites are not yet visible to the naked eye. After feeding on the body fluids of the fish for a couple of days, the parasites become encysted and are then visible on the fish as small white spots. After several days the parasites break free from the fish and fall to the bottom of the aquarium where they begin to reproduce rapidly. Within 24 hours each cyst can contain up to 500 new parasites. When the cyst breaks open hundreds of free-swimming parasites are released into the water. These new parasites then seek out a host (fish) to attach themselves to and feed on. These parasites can only be killed when in the free-swimming stage. Seondary bacterial infections are common.



Treatment:

Carry out a 25%-40% partial water change and treat immediately with either Quick Cure (which is highly effective), or Rid-Ich, Rid-Ick+, Ick Guard, Ick Guard II, Clout and Super Ick Cure. In very hard water the treatment should be performed two times a day, in the early morning and late at night. Since the protozoan, while attached to the host is immune to treatment, this has to be aimed against the free swimming stages. Slowly raising the water temperature to 90 degrees (if the fish can tolerate it) for a few hours every 2 or 3 days may be effective.

Ich is highly contagious, therefore, the entire aquarium and not just a single fish should be treated.
 
Sorry, no heavy breathing either, and I did add salt to the tank.

Julia
 
These grains are un-measurable in size. Imagine a grain of talcum powder and that is just how small they are. I have had outbreaks of ich in my tanks before and it has never looked like this. Do ich spots come this small? If so, I will have to wait 3 days before I can treat with myxazin.

Julia
 
Julia protozin is not an effective velvet cure
you need cuprazin or other copper based treatment.
 
black anger, the treatment I have used is blue, but it sounds as though I was sold the wrong treatment. I need to find out how long I have to wait before adding Cuprazin after this treatment. I just hope we dont lose him otherwise I will be really cross :<

Julia
 
julibob said:
I need to find out how long I have to wait before adding Cuprazin after this treatment.
Julia
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you should wait at least 48hrs before using a different treatment.
in the meantime add carbon into the filter to absorb any remaining meds.
 
Cuprazin is not for velvet and is for saltwater tanks only. Keep using the protozin and if possible add a heater to slowly bring the temp up to 80f.
 
How is he reacting? Is he still active and bright? If he starts clamping his fins then stop all salt treatments as this will impair kidney function.

If he is still bright and active then the following will offer him some relief.

For a good salt bath take a gallon of fresh warm dechlorinated water and dissolve 2 level teaspoons of aquarium salt and put that in. Place the sick fish in and let him swim in it for up to 10 minutes. If he rolls or his gills stop working then place back in the tank.
This should be done once a day for three days using a fresh solution each time.
 

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