What is the best way to soften water?

pnyklr3

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I guess the topic title is my question!! :lol: I am looking into getting some dwarf cichlids and my water is harder than they would like.

Thanks!

Jade
 
What is your pH, KH and GH? I've seen some cichlids (e.g. blue rams) do fine in pH of 7.8...
 
Use R/O water to do the changes. That will bring the pH down safely. Bogwood and peat moss can do it too but often brown the water and aren't able to bring pH down very much.
 
i would leave the water changes a week longer than normal normally bacteria, carbon dioxide (amount of fish,algae,plants living creatures you have in the tank contribute greatly) and waste like fish flakes can contribute to the level of acidity in the tank i think. ;)

I checked my ph today and its at 6.8-7 just under 7 i`d say so my tetras will thrive in there and especially my big 2 yr old male kribensis altho catfish prefer more alkaline conditions.
 
All true, but you increase the dangers of ammonia or nitrite poisoning, not to mention leaving the fish to swim in their own waste.
 
I am looking to purchase a few apistogramma cacatuoides in the near future. My pH is around 8.4, total hardness is around 80-120 ppm, and total alkalinity/buffering capacity is 240-300 ppm. I'm assuming that will help (my test strips don't say KH or GH. Does the buffering capacity mean that I will have a problem lowering my pH? I was a biochemistry major for only 3 semester before I changed my major to education. I guess I should've paid more attention! :X

I here that the cockatoo dwarf cichlids are a little more tolerant of condition compared to their counterparts, but I'd like to accomodate them as much as possible. Any suggestions?

Also, I am have a HARD time lowering my nitrates. They have been hovering at about 80 ppm for over a month now, and water changes don't make a lick of difference. *About 7 weeks ago, nitrates were at 200 ppm and a water change brought them down to 80. No change since then* Should I purchase a live plant or two to help lower them? Please help!

~Jade

Edited to add: Oh, and my lfs insists that weekly 20% water changes are too much, and that I should only do 25% every 3-4 weeks. Hmm, I guess this is like the "great feeder fish debate."
 
Test strips aren't very accurate, I can tell you that now. Kh and gh both are intertwined and act as buffers to keep the pH up. Water chemistry is very complicated and I don't pretend to understand it all, but the basics are fairly basic. The best way to reduce pH is through reverse osmosis water, which to those who don't know, is devoid of nearly everything, pure water. There are occasionally trace amounts of minerals but nothing to buffer the pH.
 
Oh, and I no longer have an RO system....would spring water be better than tap? And is distilled water bed for fish?
 
pnyklr3 said:
Oh, and I no longer have an RO system....would spring water be better than tap? And is distilled water bed for fish?
You can buy R/O water at water stores if they're around, or at some grocery stores. Spring water would be better than tap and distilled better still but distilled is not as good as R/O water. Probably the next best thing IMO.

Edited to add: Oh, and my lfs insists that weekly 20% water changes are too much, and that I should only do 25% every 3-4 weeks. Hmm, I guess this is like the "great feeder fish debate."

Depends on how large the water volume is, the type of fish and water parameters but 25% every 3-4 weeks is stretching on the dangerous side. Maybe every two weeks but definitely not once a month. If you have fish with high waste output (goldfish, oscars, plecos, etc) then 25% weekly is what you'll want to do.
 
What happens to the pH if I put distilled or RO water into my tank? Those water are around 7.0, right? With mine being at 8.4, will my 55 gallon stay at 8.4, or go somewhere inbetween the two? This is confusing.

And I do have a bristlenosed poop-machine. :lol:
 
It has a lower pH so it will mix with the higher pH and "thin" it out so the buffers that are keeping the pH up are fewer and more spread out in the water.
 
This excellent artical should help you a lot in reducing the pH and hardness of your water http://hjem.get2net.dk/Best_of_the_Web/peat%20page.html

As said water chemistry is very complicated and the pH, GH and KH are all intertwined, alter one and the others will change too and not always for the best. I always advise people who want to alter their water chemistry to study the basics first and not to attempt anything until they have a good general understanding of how it all works.

By using a combination of R/O water (units can be purchased quite cheeply and are easily installed with a few basic tools) and peat filtration you should be able to practically recreate the chemistry of the amazon basin in your tank and will soon have your dwarf cichlids breeding like little aquatic bunnies, all it takes is a little research and a bit of effort.
 
I currently have 7 angels in a 55 gal. grow out tank. They are old enough now, but are not pairing off. My ph is between 7.6 and 7.8. A good friend of my whom I trust suggested getting some dried (not green) oak leaves from the yard, clean them, and put them in the tank to slowly reduce the ph.
 
Oh my goodness! What kind of mess have I gotten myself into? :p If I use peat, it will surely discolor my water, right? And the carbon may or may not clear the water? If I decide to use peat, can I just place a little stocking bag of peatin my aquarium or filter, or is the best way to go treating the water beforehand and adding it to the tank?

Is it possible to use "too much peat"? What I mean is: I can't lower my pH too far, right? I guess the problem is going to be acclimating my current fish to the new pH. Does anyone know how quickly the peat affects the water/how fast does the pH change take place?

Too many question....again :lol:
 
I would put the peat in a stocking or other thin mesh and set it inside the filter where it will get a chance to better disperse into the water. The peat won't lower the pH alot, no matter how much you use, it won't take it down very far so you won't overdo it. The fish should be able to adjust fine, unless there's a drastic difference in their water conditions, then you'll have to slowly acclimate them. The peat will take several weeks to a month or more to do anything to the water.
 

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