using rain water
- Thread starter trevorbia
- Start date
Rainwater as such is obviously ideal for fish, but the problem is what may be in it. Water is a tremendous solvent, meaning that it readily acquires substances that come into contact with it. So rain, which starts out as pure water, picks up substances from the air as it falls and then from wherever it may land.
If you live in an area where industrial and similar pollution is not an issue, you should be able to use rainwater. Collect it free-standing in containers, not as runoff from a roof. The latter has the problems of chemicals from the roof material and eaves, bird droppings, etc.
Test the GH and pH. The GH will likely be very low, and the pH will likely be on the acidic side. Depending upon the levels, this may be ideal for soft water fish, if you intend these. Hard water fish like livebearers will not be healthy in soft and acidic water.
Additives to increase minerals, plant nutrients, and such will depend upon the rainwater's properties and the intended fish/plants.
Thinking ahead, you will need sufficient rainwater for regular weekly partial water changes. Unless there is some prohibiting problem with your tap water, it might be just as good, or could be mixed with rainwater.
Byron.
If you live in an area where industrial and similar pollution is not an issue, you should be able to use rainwater. Collect it free-standing in containers, not as runoff from a roof. The latter has the problems of chemicals from the roof material and eaves, bird droppings, etc.
Test the GH and pH. The GH will likely be very low, and the pH will likely be on the acidic side. Depending upon the levels, this may be ideal for soft water fish, if you intend these. Hard water fish like livebearers will not be healthy in soft and acidic water.
Additives to increase minerals, plant nutrients, and such will depend upon the rainwater's properties and the intended fish/plants.
Thinking ahead, you will need sufficient rainwater for regular weekly partial water changes. Unless there is some prohibiting problem with your tap water, it might be just as good, or could be mixed with rainwater.
Byron.
I would honestly advise you to use your tap water, and pick fish that will be happy in it.
Adjusting pH and hardness is not something I'd recommend for someone just beginning in the hobby.
Adjusting pH and hardness is not something I'd recommend for someone just beginning in the hobby.
I would be interested to know the reason behind this. As fluttermoth hints, this can have its issues. We want to give the best advice we can, for your situation.
AbbeysDad
Fish Gatherer
I once tried using rain water and it was a huge fail. Unless you have a metal roof it's impossible to collect clean water from a downspout. And even with a metal roof, as mentioned, all sorts of pollutants in the air can be in rain water.
As Byron has requested, what's the issue with your tap water?
As Byron has requested, what's the issue with your tap water?
hi after reading your replies maybe best i use tap water only wanted to use rain water has this seemed a more natural way to go i did not realise the problems this could cause thank you for putting me straight, best reg.
Fair enough. This now brings us to the issue of the parameters of your tap water, and what fish may work and which may not work with your water. GH (general hardness), KH (carbonate hardness or Alkalinity) and pH are the parameters. We can explain or assist if asked. It is important to know these for the source water before considering fish species.
Byron.
hi Byron thanks for info will com back to you later regarding this info, in the meantime can you please tell me what equipment i need to leave running whilst waiting for my water to mature (ie filter,heater,lights etc) thank you would app a reply best reg Trev.
Okay....
Water doesn't 'mature'. Your next step is 'cycling', but that's not the same as letting water mature. Cycling means growing a colony of good bacteria in your filter.
For that you need to have your filter and heater running (no lights), and to be adding a source of ammonia for the bacteria to feed on.
Have a read of some of the threads in the 'Cycle your Tank' forum, here; http://www.fishforums.net/forums/cycle-your-tank.291/
Water doesn't 'mature'. Your next step is 'cycling', but that's not the same as letting water mature. Cycling means growing a colony of good bacteria in your filter.
For that you need to have your filter and heater running (no lights), and to be adding a source of ammonia for the bacteria to feed on.
Have a read of some of the threads in the 'Cycle your Tank' forum, here; http://www.fishforums.net/forums/cycle-your-tank.291/
I don't know your (Trev) level of experience/knowledge, so to expand on what fluttermoth has correctly mentioned...
"Cycle" refers to the establishment of the nitrifying bacteria; the articles explain this so I will move on. Once this is done, the aquarium will then become established over several months. This latter process is when the whole biological system settles down, and it will be dependent upon the fish (species and numbers), live plants if any, substrate (material and depth), temperature, foods added for the fish (type but more importantly amount), water changes and other maintenance.
To your question about equipment and such, when I set up a new aquarium, or re-set one with new substrate so it is much like a new tank, I decide what I intend for fish and the aquascape, then I put everything in except for the fish themselves, and get the filter and heater and light operating. This is when you can make sure the filter is working properly, the heater keeping the set temperature, and the lights can be on a timer. A timer is good for both fish and plants, as a regular period of "daylight" (the period when the tank light is on) will improve the health of fish and plants, rather than just turning the light on and off whenever.
At this point, with everything running correctly, you can decide on the method of cycling. If I intend live plants, I never "cycle" as such.
Byron.
"Cycle" refers to the establishment of the nitrifying bacteria; the articles explain this so I will move on. Once this is done, the aquarium will then become established over several months. This latter process is when the whole biological system settles down, and it will be dependent upon the fish (species and numbers), live plants if any, substrate (material and depth), temperature, foods added for the fish (type but more importantly amount), water changes and other maintenance.
To your question about equipment and such, when I set up a new aquarium, or re-set one with new substrate so it is much like a new tank, I decide what I intend for fish and the aquascape, then I put everything in except for the fish themselves, and get the filter and heater and light operating. This is when you can make sure the filter is working properly, the heater keeping the set temperature, and the lights can be on a timer. A timer is good for both fish and plants, as a regular period of "daylight" (the period when the tank light is on) will improve the health of fish and plants, rather than just turning the light on and off whenever.
At this point, with everything running correctly, you can decide on the method of cycling. If I intend live plants, I never "cycle" as such.
Byron.
AbbeysDad
Fish Gatherer
Just to go one step further on Byron's response, with plants he doesn't cycle per se as the plants themselves will use ammonia as their nitrogen source. This is a very good thing as it results in lower nitrates. As such, fish can be slowly added to the well planted aquarium and beneficial bacteria will develop over time in conjunction with the plants ammonia absorption. Generally speaking, a well planted tank will have a smaller colony of beneficial bacteria.
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