Urgent! Can't Get Rid Of Ick!

gothicangel69

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I bought some feeder goldfish for my Spotted Climbing Perch less than a week ago, and one of them had ick (I guess I didn't look them over well enough). Anyways, it spread like crazy so that all the goldfish had it by the next day. I went out and bought CopperSafe (Chelated Copper Sulfate) but that didn't help at all, in fact, it spread to my perch, who I am assuming ate one of the sick fish before I would get them out). I then took out all of the goldfish, who died the next day, did a %50 water change to get out the medication, and tried Super Ick Cure (1.9mg Benzaldehyde Green & 30mg Nitrofurazone tabs) I am almost at the end of the treatment period, and the ick is not going away. Its not spreading any more, but its not getting any better.
I have one more type of medication to try (Mardel Maracide- Malachite Green & Chitosan), but I don't know if this is going to work or not. I know salt works, but I'm not sure if the fish I have can tollerate salt. I know that alot of south american cichlids can't.
Can anyone help me out? He's still eating, but his breathing is more labored than usual. I really don't want to lose him. I've had him for so long and he's my favorite fish.


Tank size: 30 gallons
pH: 6.5
ammonia: 0
nitrite: 0
nitrate: 0
kH: not sure, but its relatively low
gH: not sure
tank temp: 80-82 F

Fish Symptoms (include full description including lesion, color, location, fish behavior): The spots do look a little smaller than normal, but its not velvet since there not that small, and it doesn't have the goldish sheen to it.

Volume and Frequency of water changes: I usually only change the water every few months since that's about how long it takes for it to get dirty, also if I change the tank water too often, the fish get sick. I did however, just move the tank a few weeks ago, and the water has been changed %40 when we moved, and %50 a week later, so the tank water isn't how it usually is. It'll probably take a few months of frequent small water changes until it gets like it was. I've managed to make the tank into a complete ecosystem all on its own, but now its all messed up.

Chemical Additives or Media in your tank: carbon, peat granuals, instant amazon black water extract (double dosage), Aqua Plus water conditioner, Cycle water conditioner, Plant Grow, and plant fertilizers, and driftwood for tanines.

Tank inhabitants: 2 kribs, 2 bolivian rams, 3 cories, 1 chinease algae eater, 1 Spotted Climbing Perch, and either white cloud minnows, platies, goldfish, guppies, or assorted tetras for food.

Recent additions to your tank (living or decoration): one week ago- 2 kribs, 2 bolivians, 1 cory, (10 small goldfish, 5 danios, 8 mountain minnows for food) I know it sounds like alot of fish to add at once, but it doesn't bother the chemistry of the water at all, I used to add 70 minnows every 4 weeks for a while, and the tank was still very healthy.

Exposure to chemicals: none
 
I wouldnt feed feeder fish they carry desease and not much nutrition in them.
Whitespot looks like the fish has been sprinkled in salt.
Did you climatise the goldfish as they are coldwater fish.
Turn temp up to 30 if you think it is whitespot.
Increase aeration as the high temp and med reduce 02 n the water.
Remove black carbon if you use it.
 
I usually don't buy feeder goldfish, but I was stupid and bought them this time, and look where it got me. I did climatise the goldfish before adding them too the tank. The temperature right now is 82 F, and I don't really want to raise it much more than that. Also the carbon has already been removed.
 
Fish can handle the temp as long as there plenty of aeration in the tank.
 
I researched ich and one site said that the parasite cannot reproduce over the temperature of 85F. They said that if you raise the temperature to 86-90F for 10 days, it will get rid of the parasites. I'm not sure if this is true or not, but it might be worth a try. OF course, I'll need to put in an air pump. They also said not to use this method while using medication.
Does this sound like a good idea?
 
I would at least raise the temp to 30. with plenty of aeration ,good luck.
 
Yes UV should kill free floating ich, not the ones on the fish though.

30 is about 86....it makes the ich breed / multiply quicker and therefore gets them in the water quicker where your meds can kill them.

UV are great if you a )Have a way of pumping into it B) have the room for one.
 

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