Time for a poll - water hardness and pH

[AlexT]

I'm not overly concerned just wanted some opinions

What would you say is better for Corys and White fin Bentosi Tetras (Hyphessobrycon genus). If your answer would be different depending on whether it's Cory or Tetra, please don't vote, but leave a comment?

What's better? Hardness is german degrees

My water in fully cycled quarantine tank pH 7.2, KH 5, GH 8
My main tank pH 7.5, KH 4, GH 6

 

[TwoTankAmin]

What constitutes the ideal parameters here? Also, for some fish what is ideal may be different for wild caught fish vs those which have been farmed for a number of generations.

One tank is intended for short term use and the other will be used for years (hopefully). One tank is designed to make it easy for us to observe the fish easily while the other is designed to make the fish as "happy" as possible.

BTW, I quarantine tank raised fo about 30 days and wild imports for more like 90 days. This means that number of consecutive days w/o issues. If I have to treat new fish in Q, when and if cured, the clock starts over. So, when I set up a Q tank how long I expect to need it will determine the parameters, to some degree.

In no case would I radically change the basic parameters in a Q tank from what the fish need to thrive. However, the decor is different and the temp. may be a bit different as may the TDS. Bu0,t they will not be different enough to be in any way detrimental to the well being of the fish. I need to be able to make the final transfer knowing that any smaller parameter differences will not matter.

Finally, not all corys need identical parameters. What species are the ones involved in your question?

 

[Colin_T]

How do you have a higher GH & KH with a lower pH in one tank?
Normally the higher the KH the higher the pH.

Either is fine but the lower GH is better long term.

 

[GaryE]

The QT tank should replicate conditions the fish are going into. For example, if your water is a problem for the fish, then it's a stress. A stress can give the upper hand to a pathogen. So that's what QT is for.
If the QT is adapted to the fish, but the main tank isn't, and if that is a problem, then you see it after qt.

That's a general thing though. Most Corys and bentosi should handle that water well.

 

[AlexT]

The QT tank should replicate conditions the fish are going into. For example, if your water is a problem for the fish, then it's a stress. A stress can give the upper hand to a pathogen. So that's what QT is for.
If the QT is adapted to the fish, but the main tank isn't, and if that is a problem, then you see it after qt.

That's a general thing though. Most Corys and bentosi should handle that water well.

I get that Gary, but some people wouldn't so it's good to raise that. This question is about a vote on the two numbers. I can easily get the quarenteen tank the same as the main tank.

Thanks for reply. I love your content by the way
Always read it

 

[AlexT]

How do you have a higher GH & KH with a lower pH in one tank?
Normally the higher the KH the higher the pH.

Either is fine but the lower GH is better long term.

That I don't know at the moment Colin.

 

[AlexT]

Finally, not all corys need identical parameters. What species are the ones involved in your question?

Good point. Bronze cory's
Thanks for helping, very useful

 

[AlexT]

There are no fish in the Q tank. Its fully cycled and I have dr tims ammonia to hand to keep it cycled. I can easily get it 95% to the range of the main tank parameters. I also test daily. Not sure why the pH is a little lower in there.

 

[TwoTankAmin]

The cycle itself is acid. The longer one goes without changing water, the lower the tank pH should get. We are not talking days here or evern weeks for the most part. It takes a while. This is why low pH is a symptom of Old Tank Syndrome.

A going stocked tank has a somewhat different profi;e in terms of the biology and chemistry than a Q tank just being dosed with ammonia. The ammonia creation in the main tank is gradual but continuous. In the Q tank you drop it in all at once. Pulesed ammonia tends to make a stronger bacterial colony than a lower continuous level that amounts to the same thing but over a longer time period. Plus the fish are letting other things into the water and you are adding different things to the main tank- like food, than in the unstocked Q tank.

If I have the same well water in all but one of my tanks, but the parameters of those tanks is not exactly identical.

 

[AlexT]

The cycle itself is acid. The longer one goes without changing water, the lower the tank pH should get. We are not talking days here or evern weeks for the most part. It takes a while. This is why low pH is a symptom of Old Tank Syndrome.

A going stocked tank has a somewhat different profi;e in terms of the biology and chemistry than a Q tank just being dosed with ammonia. The ammonia creation in the main tank is gradual but continuous. In the Q tank you drop it in all at once. Pulesed ammonia tends to make a stronger bacterial colony than a lower continuous level that amounts to the same thing but over a longer time period. Plus the fish are letting other things into the water and you are adding different things to the main tank- like food, than in the unstocked Q tank.

If I have the same well water in all but one of my tanks, but the parameters of those tanks is not exactly identical.

Thanks again. I'm lucky to have 3 TFF legends inputting! But seriously, I appreciate the details.