The Darker Side Of Cycling.....

MoreCoffee

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OK, It's time to play again, So here's a little something different - The Darker side of Cycling:

Sometime ago I saw a post by George Farmer on an idea he had about doing a totally blacked out ( 'fishless' 'plantless' 'lightless') cycle of a tank.
The idea was to try encourage bacteria growth to get the filter as mature as possible with a view to trying to cut down on the early algae issues, maybe also cut down on the need for quite so many initial fast growing plants.

As I want to use varieties of Cryptocoryne, Echinodorus and Anubias in my final layout (along with some fast growers) I thought this sounded like something worth trying. I spoke to George about this and he had not been able to try it out. So with his permission ...... here goes !

I'm no chemist or biologist, so I have no idea if this will work ..... maybe others who are more qualified can offer some advice (for or against) on this plan.

The filter gets installed tonight and the tank will be filled and blacked out tomorrow !

=============================================================================
The Plan: (All timescales approx - will depend on water tests/conditions)

Phase 1: (Approx 3 -4 weeks)
Total blackout ! - substrate/hardscape/filter only. No plants/livestock. Will include JBL Denitrol to kickstart filter.
Notes:
1. The nitrifying bacteria we want dont like light. Most grow in the darkness of the filter, but there are also colonies in the substrate and to a lesser extent on the surfaces of items in the tank - So we dont give them any light !
2. Algae (most, probably all) need light to grow - So we dont give it any light !
3. The nitrifying bacteria feed on ammonia. Plants take up large amounts of ammonia - So taking away the plants gives them more ammonia to feed on and hopefully encourage faster growth.
4. I may include an air pump during the blackout - Yet to decide ?

Phase 2: (Approx 3 - 4 weeks)
Plants/Uber CO2 (45ppm +) /EI Ferts/Light.
Notes:
1. Let there be light, off with the blackout and the lights go on !
2. Hopefully by now we have a decent bacteria colony in the filter and substrate and the tank is algae free.
3. Get the hardscape tidied up and get the plants in there and start dosing EI
4. Turn the Co2 up high. I'm looking for in excess of 45ppm.

Phase 3: (Approx 2 weeks)
Add livestock 1 - Otto/shrimp.
Notes:
1. I should have a good idea by now if this is working. A clear tank, or a mess of algae !!
2. Turn down the Co2 to 30ppm
3. Get the algae eating shrimp and Otto's in there.

Phase 4: (Approx 1 - 2 weeks)
Add livestock 2 �" shoal fish.
1. Assuming all is OK, stock the tank up with more fish.
2. After another week or two, increase the fish stock to the final level.
=============================================================================
So this whole process could take 10 - 12 weeks (or more) before I'm fully stocked with fish, but if I can avoid early algae issues and can plant with more of the plants I really want and less of the fast growing weeds, then it may well be worth it. It'll be interesting to see if I see any diatoms during the early stages.

I partly decided to give this a try as my tank is sat there empty and I need to do something with it.
The blackout period won't require much maintenance and no plants. I wouldnt want to rely on mail order plants at this time of year and the low maintenance fits in with my plans for Xmas. But the main reason for trying this is ....... curiosity !

Tank details:
rena_panoramic_120_sml.jpg

Tank: Rena Panorama 120 (220Ltrs useful volume)
Lighting: Interpet luminaire 4 x 36W (approx 2.48wpg) {Edited}
Fitler: AquaEL UniMax Pro 500. 9W internal UV steriliser, 2 x inflow pipes, 2 x outflow pipes, (1 inflow/1 outflow at each end of the tank to increase water circulation).
Co2: Pressurised with Aquamedic regulator, 2kg Co2 fire extinguisher and 2 x glass/ceramic diffusers (one near each outflow pipe to increase CO2 distribution)
Substrate: 4 bags ADA Aquasoil Amazonia.
Fertilisation: EI
Heater: 300w Hydor inline.

I have no idea if this will work and will only be able to answer that question at the end
icon_lol.gif


Any thoughts/comments would be very welcome !

Al
 
Top stuff yet again Al. Your dedication to sharing your experiences with us all is much appreciated.

I look forward to the results. I also look forward to seeing how the filter performs. Great idea on two outputs with CO2 diffusers, ideal for the longer tank.

Keeping my eye on this thread for sure!
 
Yeh, cheers Al, dont know if Id have the patients to do this, 10-12 weeks is quite a long time, although I guess it'll only be black and featureless for 3-4 weeks, so not to bad if it means no algae! A few questions, if you dont mind?

1) What are you using to kick start the cycle process? I.e. NH3 source?

2) I hate to p**s on your fire but with a luminaire of 2x36w over a 220lt/58USg tank you'll only have 1.24WPG, so you'll need to add some more?

3) whats the thinking behind the UV?

Other than that, go for it, looking forward to seeing the results :)

Sam
 
Does JBL Denitrol contain an ammonia source? If not, you will probably want to add ammonia as well. Just repeating what Sam said, but I did see that he caught it, too. Otherwise, great idea on jumpstarting a fishless cycle!
 
Sam & Dasmall1

dont know if Id have the patients to do this, 10-12 weeks is quite a long time, although I guess it'll only be black and featureless for 3-4 weeks
Well this tank has been sitting here empty for 6 months already, waiting for the decorating to be finished and a new carpet. I wouldn't be doing anything with it until the New Year, so I figured I was in an ideal situation to try it. Also, like you said 3 - 4 weeks and it will be planted up, but running 'Uber Co2'. That suits my timescale perfectly !

1) What are you using to kick start the cycle process? I.e. NH3 source?
I dont believe that Denitrol contains any ammonia.. Last time I used ADA substrates there was no need to
add anything, the NH3 shot through the roof, however that was with Powersand (that I'm not using this time).
I will probably be adding a bit of fish flake to start with and see how the water reading go.

2) I hate to p**s on your fire but with a luminaire of 2x36w over a 220lt/58USg tank you'll only have 1.24WPG, so you'll need to add some more?
Typo on my part. Its 4 x 36W - Thanks for spotting it, I'll edit the original post.
The fire is still burning :lol:

3) whats the thinking behind the UV?
The UV wasn't a part of the original plan for this, but the filter comes with an internal compartment that houses a 9w UV steriliser. It is in the last stage of the filter before the water returns to the tank.
Quite impressed with the build quality of this filter so far ad the media trays are huge !

Al
 
Right oh :) that lighting sounds more like it!

BTW could you not just run a filter on an existing tank, why the need to run it on the new tank and mature it that way?

So you anticipate the ADA AS introducing NH3 into the tank?

Sam
 
BTW could you not just run a filter on an existing tank, why the need to run it on the new tank and mature it that way?
Very probably. I believe George initially came up with this idea after 'Harlequin' had great success planting slower growing plants from the start, but using a mature filter. This is really an experiment to see if similar results can be achieved using a new filter with 'virgin' filter media

The only other tank I could have connected this up to is my 60L.
I'm all in favour of over-filtration, but I think an extra 1500L/ph would be a little too much !!

Nor could I really use the filter media from the 60L tank, without risking upsetting the balance in that tank. Some squeezings from mature filter media has been included, along with the JBL Denitrol (live bacteria culture) , I'm hoping that should give it a kickstart.

I'll take some tap water readings today and compare them with tank readings in a day or two. Pretty much everything else is 'wait and see'.

The tank is filling now ...... My JBL Aqua In-Out water changer is already showing it's usefulness.

Al
 
Thought that might be your thinking :) running a filter on an established tank is all very well if you have another tank thats suitable! :lol:

My gift for my PFK subscription is a TMC Rio 800, 175g/h max flow, was planning on giving it to a friend, but his tank is only 6 gallons, a tad bit of overkill :lol:

Whats a JBL aqua in/out?

Sam
 
...........Whats a JBL aqua in/out?
Sam
Sam,
Basically it's the same as the Python water changer, but the JBL version is a bit cheaper in the UK than the Python import.

I had a bit of a problem with the tap connector splitting, but a bit of DIY and it work just fine ..... No more buckets !
 
If only I didnt use RO water! Dam my hard Oxford water!
 
One other quick question, are you able to turn the UV off, but keep the filter running? What are your thoughts on the whole 'uv breaking down iron, etc'?

Sam
 
Dont know, but as i understand it, it truns it into a form thats less bio available to the plants. Dont forget that even though something might add iron to water, it'll be in a compund with other things. In the same way we add phoshpate to the tank by adding potassium phosphate.

Sam
 
One other quick question, are you able to turn the UV off, but keep the filter running? What are your thoughts on the whole 'uv breaking down iron, etc'?
Sam
Sam, Yes the UV can be turned on/off independantly. It comes with a seperate power supply to the filter pumps. I'm not actually running the UV for the first couple of weeks whilst I add the JBL Denitrol.
Denitrol is a 'live' bacteria culture added direct to the tank water, so passing through the UV wouldn't do them much good. I'll probably turn it on a week or two before taking the covers off.

As for the UV vs Iron issue. I've seen this mentioned a few times, but also seen lots of people who run UV whilst adding nutrients and not reported any ill effects.

I've also seen comments from Tom Barr (quoted below) that suggests there is no real proof that UV causes any issues.
"........The other issue that the UV's wavelength is different than the Sun's and generally more narrow. Many chemical bonds and complexs are specific to a particular wavelength for degradation.
Given that people have only actually used field data from natural systems to justify the UV sterilizer claims that it breaks down iron complexes, RATHER than any real data from an aquarium, this seems speculative at best and at worst simply wrong/insignificant.
I think the burden should be on those wanting to make this claim to show that it is or is not significant.
The observations with using UV's and dosing traces sure don't seem to support their contention.
I figure if I can trust his judgement enough to add chemicals to my tank (EI), I can trust him on this one ...... until somebody proves otherwise :D

As it's on it's own power supply I have the option to run it on a timer and only run it for a few hours per day .... overnight perhaps. In the end I think I'll be running the UV 24/7 and see if the plants show any signs of Iron (or other nutrient) deficiency.

Al
 
Interesting Al, cheers. Think I might try 24/7 on my nano, sure would make life easier, as I have been dosing trace each day recently and just running the UV at night. Will give it a try and see what happens!

Sam
 

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