The Cylce Begings

Eversurf

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I have been looking for a couples of days about how to drill the holes in it, but I still have a few questions about it.

Where should the hole be? Seems lilke the back top is a good place.
How big should the whole be? I was reading 1 1/4 inch for a 1 inch hose...

That's pretty much it for now. I want to drill before I built my stand.

-Surf
 
When you choose the bulkhead, it should specify the hole size for the drill bit needed. MOST 1" bulkheads will drill well with a 45mm bit (the affordable bits come from china ;))
 
Thanx for the quick response.

I need more precision on where the hole should be or was my assumption good? Should I drill for the returns as well?

Barney did your drill bit had a bit within the circular part of it? Let me know if it's not clear.

Thanx
 
Yes you will need to drill a return as well.

You can drill it pretty much anywhere you want. Most people put it on the back of the tank to have it hidden out the way. Personally I would do it closer to the edge than to the middle as it is less likely to flex as your drilling. I would put the overflows on one side at the back and the return on the other side.

For teh overflows I would put in two (one slightly higher then the other). This means that if the first one blocks up the tank will fill out to the second one and then over flow. if you only have one overflow and it gets blocked the tank will flood. If you have two overflows at the same level its gives you some extra protection against flooding but then with both of them having water going through them constantly you risk both of them blocking up over time.

IE:
244794793O591708936.jpg


You want a "diamond edged hole saw". Basically it is like a hollow tube connected to a drill bit. The cutting edge has a rough diamond coating which "grinds" rather then cuts through the glass. You will need a variable speed drill (make sure that it isn't in "hammer" mode :) ) and you just very slowly grind through the glass.

The way I did it was:
Mark where you want the overflows.
Get a piece of wood and drill a hole in it the same size as your holesaw bit.
Lay the tank on a soft, flat surface (a couple of old blankets).
Stick the piece of wood to the tank so that the hole is over where you want the holes drilled (I used duck/gaffer tape to hold the wood in place, you can use clamps if you are careful and pad them).
Dribble a little water into the hole and use it as a guide for your hole saw.
SLOWLY start the drill up. Do not put any pressure on the drill (its own weight should do the trick).
It will make a really horrible noise and gradually start grinding through the glass.
Every so often Flush the hole out with water. I had someone gently dribbling water into the hole while I was drilling as it is important to keep the drill bit cool and the hole free of debris.
Once you have the hole part way started (deep enough so the drill bit doesnt slide all over the place. You can take the wood guide off to make it easier to see what your doing.

Caution:
Be cafeful with water and electric power drills.
Wear eye protection (seriously, the potential for eye damage is fairly high).
Take it slow and dont use too much force. It took me about 20-30 minutes per hole.
 
In the whole saw is there a bit that would touch the glass? There is this one thing at the depot that will drill ceramic, but it doesn't say glass on it...i'm slightly confused.
 
I see what you mean. A hole saw for wood does have a drill bit in the center. One for glass/ceramatics does not (its just like a hollow tube). I will take a photo of the drill bit I have when I get home.

Most ceramic drill bits will also work on glass I think but dont just take my word on it as i'm not 100% sure :)
 
Yes you will need to drill a return as well.

Really?

I best go and drill another hole in my 9 tanks I use that are drilled. ;)

There is no need at all to drill a return, and I prefer to have the return go ver the top of the rim, thus making it far easier to ensure the smallest amount of back syphon as possible. I've had a couple of tanks where I drilled a return hole and absolutely loathed them.
 
I guess i'm gonna have to start a poll... :)

the one I am eyeing at the depot looks like this one

74f2_1.JPG


What do you guys think? It's like 12$....
 
Yes you will need to drill a return as well.

Really?

I best go and drill another hole in my 9 tanks I use that are drilled. ;)

There is no need at all to drill a return, and I prefer to have the return go ver the top of the rim, thus making it far easier to ensure the smallest amount of back syphon as possible. I've had a couple of tanks where I drilled a return hole and absolutely loathed them.

Yes your are completely right. I should have said Yes you CAN drill a return hole OR have the return going over the edge of the tank (I actually have it going over the edge of the tank on mine as well).

There are pro's and cons to both, a drilled return is neater but then you need to have it above the water level or have a non-return valve on the return line (to stop back syphoning). Having the return over the rim of the tank stops the back syphoning issues but looks less tidy and you need to make sure that the return line is well secured.

That hole saw will not be any good because it has the drill bit in the middle, what you need is the same but without the bit in the middle.
 
Perfect thanx for all the information.....time to find a drill bit online.

-Surf
 
Actually if you look close, the bit in the middle is ALSO a diamond coated bit, looks like it's perfect... Didnt know the sold those at the Depot. Good to know.
 
Cool thanx for the reply, but I was lucky enough to buy another 75G already drilled at the botto for dirty cheap. I am heading to my buddie's house today to build my stand. No need to drill anymore

-Surf
 
I went to the depot and took a picture of the drill bit so you guys know what it looks like.[
 

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