The Ammonia In My Tank Won't Stay Down!

MollyFresh

Fish Crazy
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Ive had a 10 gallon tank for a little less then 2 weeks now. when I bought my fish, I bought them the day after i got the tank. The fish store guy didnt tell me that i needed to cycle my tank before I bought fish. He knew that I had a new tank too. I found out online. So the first week or so the ammonia has been at 0, then my molly had about 11 babies, but just yesterday one died. So I was doing water changes the entire time I had the tank, about 50% too. Untill she gave birth, I do one now and then though, every 3 days or so? I don't know why I stopped doing them. The ammonia is at like 1or 2 ppm, has been that why for the past couple days, but my fish seem fine, event the babies are ok. I did a water chance yesterday, actually 2. I took 50% of the water out and then put new water back in, then I siphoned the bottom for poop and 55% or more of the water came out then too. so I took the plants out ( fake ones) and I cleaned them, but didnt put them back. I cleaned the gravel by scooping out some at a time and washing out whatever poop or food I missed while siphoning, and put it back. Then I put the water back in the tank. I tested the water again and it was the SAME THING! How could this be?? My mom said that its probably because of the baby fish but I don't understand how they would couse the ammonia to rise this much. they are in a breeder box and I cleaned it often.
Does anyone know what my problem is, and does anyone know when my ammonia should drop or my tank should be done cycling??
 
What are you treating the replacement water with, and how much are you using? Did you rinse the gravel with tank water or tap water? Is yor replacement water city supplied tap water? If you can post the results (numbers) for water tests, pH, nitrates & nitrites.
 
Ideally take the molly and her fry back to the shop and do a fishless cycle. They should of told you before buying the fish so it is there fault.

If you cant do that take a look at fish-in cycling. I have a feeling you may need to change 75% of the water now and then test 2-3 hours later, then run another 50% water change check 2-3 hours later then run another 50% water change until the ammonia reads 0.

It will start creeping up again so chances are you will need to change the water every day for a week or 2 then it might go down to every 2-3 days.

Basically you just need to do water changes until the levels read 0 then keep monitoring.

Hope that helps and good luck.
 
Ideally take the molly and her fry back to the shop and do a fishless cycle. They should of told you before buying the fish so it is there fault.

If you cant do that take a look at fish-in cycling. I have a feeling you may need to change 75% of the water now and then test 2-3 hours later, then run another 50% water change check 2-3 hours later then run another 50% water change until the ammonia reads 0.

It will start creeping up again so chances are you will need to change the water every day for a week or 2 then it might go down to every 2-3 days.

Basically you just need to do water changes until the levels read 0 then keep monitoring.

Hope that helps and good luck.

Actually all the water changes in the world won't get rid of ammonia if the water is treated with chloramine. Chloramine is a combination of chlorine & ammonia, dechlorinator in its basic form is sodium thiosulfate. This will eliminate chlorine, break the chlorine/ammonia bond in chloramine, leaving you with ammonia. Hydromehane sufinate, or a related compound, is what is used to neutralize ammonia. It actually converts it to ammonium, a substance harmless to fish at levels found in an aquarium, but used the same as ammonia by your nitrifying bacteria. It is also seen the same as ammonia by many tests.

Low pH will also convert ammonia to ammonium, water with a low pH can be rough to cycle with.
 
What are you treating the replacement water with, and how much are you using? Did you rinse the gravel with tank water or tap water? Is yor replacement water city supplied tap water? If you can post the results (numbers) for water tests, pH, nitrates & nitrites.

I am treating the replacement water with Topfin water conditioner, It says 1 drop per gallon so thats 10 drops but I probably put in more because its hard to get drops to come out of it, it like.. squirts out so I never know how much i put in it. I rinsed the gravel with tap water. I have a liquid test kit for ammonia but not for anything else so I guess I'll need to go get one. I have test strips for other things but there crap so I dont know if I should use those.
I just tested the water and its like... 0.50! I just tested the water last night and it was at like 1 or 2 ppm, that scares me because I didnt know that It could drop so fast, I would like to believe that I finally got a good number of bacteria but I will never know because I dont have a good liquid test kit, my mom is broke so i dont think I'll be getting one soon.
 
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That product will leave you with ammonia if you have city supplied tap water. Very few municipal water suppliers use chlorine alone. The ammonia dropping does mean your nitrifying bacteria are doing their job on the ammonia, you could always take the water in to be tested, many shops will do this for free, or for a minimum charge. You should be seeing nitrites next, if there is no nitrite, and only nitrate your tank is cycled.

A product like Tetra Aquasape or Seachem Prime is a much better water conditioner, it will take care of ammonia, as well as heavy metals. Aquasafe is more readily available, Prime treats more water per ml, making it more economical. Either one is top of the line, I use Prime as I go through a lot of water.
 
Tolak you rock! <3 Thank you :) I will ask my mom if we can go get the water tested. Is it possible for a tank to cycle in 2 weeks? I didnt get any filter media but I did get some gravel from a fish store.
 
It certainly is possible for it to cycle in two weeks, this is towards the short end of cycling, but by no means unheard of. If you do have it tested ask them to write down the numbers.
 

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