Tank Water Quality

[Goggy]

So i just measured my pH and ammonia this morning, i got 0.25 ammonia and 8.2 pH. 
Ammonia is fine but pH could be a problem.
My pufferfish naturaly lives in freshwater rivers around thailand, around 6.4-7.5 pH, maybe 8.6 pH at the mouth of the river.
So, what should i do? i know this isnt a emergency because the Hairy Pufferfish is an extremely hardy animal, but the pH problem is getting on my nerves. i also want the puffer to be healthy living in its ideal conditions
 
BTW, does anyone have know any efficient product capable of cleaning up tank water? i want something that makes the water pure and fresh.

 

[Ch4rlie]

I'd be more worried about the ammonia than the pH level to be honest with you.
Ammonia at 0.25ppm is NOT fine, in any established or cycled tank, you should not be getting any ammonia or nitrite readings at all.
 
First question to ask, would be WHY are you getting ammonia reading?
 
Is the tank cycled?
 
What test kits are you using to test for ammonia?
And are these test carried out correctly?
Have you tested for nitrite?
 
Human error and false readings due to unclean test tubes, out of date test kit, taking water to be tested from surface of tank water rather than at least 2 inches under water surface are the most likely reasons to get readings of ammonia if the tank is cycled.
 
Adjusting the pH to suit fish species is a hard and complicated way of doing things to be blunt.
Always easier to get fish species to suit your water type rather than changing the water to suit your fish.
 
The water hardness/softeness is more important than the pH imho, and do bear in mind if you adjust the pH, you will also adjust the hardness/softness of the water too

 

[Goggy]

I'd be more worried about the ammonia than the pH level to be honest with you.
Ammonia at 0.25ppm is NOT fine, in any established or cycled tank, you should not be getting any ammonia or nitrite readings at all.
 
First question to ask, would be WHY are you getting ammonia reading?
 
Is the tank cycled?
 
What test kits are you using to test for ammonia?
And are these test carried out correctly?
Have you tested for nitrite?
 
Human error and false readings due to unclean test tubes, out of date test kit, taking water to be tested from surface of tank water rather than at least 2 inches under water surface are the most likely reasons to get readings of ammonia if the tank is cycled.
 
Adjusting the pH to suit fish species is a hard and complicated way of doing things to be blunt.
Always easier to get fish species to suit your water type rather than changing the water to suit your fish.
 
The water hardness/softeness is more important than the pH imho, and do bear in mind if you adjust the pH, you will also adjust the hardness/softness of the water too

Its cycled, and yes i am taking water from the tank surface, i am doing the test correctly, and the water hardness is fine right now, ive read that low ammonia levels are ok in tanks i guess it was wrong info then.

 

[Ch4rlie]

Thats could be a case of a false ammonia reading of 0.25ppm then if you're taking water sample to be tested from the surface of tank water. there are more surface containments that could affect water test results than if you were to take a smaple from at least 2inches below water surface.
 
Its strictly not wrong iformation that that fish can live with 0.25ppm ammonia, but this will do damage to them long term if kept in such conditions.
 
Always best to be 100% certain your readings are correct as errors are so easily made.

 

[Byron]

First suggestion is to always test your source water (presumably tap water) alone for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH.  The pH test here needs to be with water that has sat out for 24 hours to out-gas any CO2 so you will have a more accurate pH reading.  You should also find out the GH, from the water authority probably, but if you have a GH test kit, fine.  BTW, you say the water hardness is fine...what exactly does this mean?  Knowing the number for GH is important.
 
Once you know the levels for the tap water, then test the tank water to see any variations.  This tells you if something is occurring in the aquarium to alter the water chemistry/parameters.
 
On the pH, this doesn't seem to be an issue if your info on the pH range of the fish's natural waters is accurate.
 
On ammonia, this should always be zero in an established tank.  Nitrite also should always be zero.  Nitrates should be kept as low as possible, below 20 ppm max.  All three forms of nitrogen are toxic to fish, in varying degrees; ammonia and nitrite are the more serious and as I said should always test zero in an established (cycled and established) tank when using our basic test kits.  Elevated levels of these can affect fish, long-term if not short-term.
 
Byron.

 

[Goggy]

First suggestion is to always test your source water (presumably tap water) alone for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and pH.  The pH test here needs to be with water that has sat out for 24 hours to out-gas any CO2 so you will have a more accurate pH reading.  You should also find out the GH, from the water authority probably, but if you have a GH test kit, fine.  BTW, you say the water hardness is fine...what exactly does this mean?  Knowing the number for GH is important.
 
Once you know the levels for the tap water, then test the tank water to see any variations.  This tells you if something is occurring in the aquarium to alter the water chemistry/parameters.
 
On the pH, this doesn't seem to be an issue if your info on the pH range of the fish's natural waters is accurate.
 
On ammonia, this should always be zero in an established tank.  Nitrite also should always be zero.  Nitrates should be kept as low as possible, below 20 ppm max.  All three forms of nitrogen are toxic to fish, in varying degrees; ammonia and nitrite are the more serious and as I said should always test zero in an established (cycled and established) tank when using our basic test kits.  Elevated levels of these can affect fish, long-term if not short-term.
 
Byron.

Thats a nice idea ill try it when i get back home! (nitrite 0 btw)