Slime Algae Problem

[ChrisP]

I had a really bad slime algae problem in my 180L so I totally stripped down the tank and started again. I binned all the substrate, washed the tank out and left the tank completly empty with the lights out for a few days.

I set the tank up again with fresh laterite and gravel, the only thing that is in there that was there before is the wood and this was scrubbed in hot water before it went back in until there were no traces of algae left.

So the tank has been set up for two weeks or so now and all the fish are back in as my external canister had been left running on another tank to keep it matured.

Within the firtst week I had a little diatoms which I was ok with as I exected that at first. Problem is that now the slime has started to return. Its not on the wood or on the glass its just starting to cover the gravel.

I am very lightly planted at the moment all thats in their is a few different crypts a bit of vallis and some moss.

My tap water contains no NO3 at all and I think this maybe what is causing the slime problem, when the slime set in before I stripped the tank down it was measuring 0mg/L. Now the tank has been setup again I am measuring 5mg/L.

I need your thoughts on this, is the low NO3 reading of 5mg/L what is causing the slime to return?

 

[kenneth_kpe]

hi there, i personally believe that it is really really hard to sterilize a tank of algal spores or anything to combat algae.... basically the slime algae might be due to an imbalance... slime algae (blue green algae ? the one that stinks when you smell it) what are you lighting co2 etc etc ?

 

[ChrisP]

hi there, i personally believe that it is really really hard to sterilize a tank of algal spores or anything to combat algae.... basically the slime algae might be due to an imbalance... slime algae (blue green algae ? the one that stinks when you smell it) what are you lighting co2 etc etc ?

Yeah its BGA and when it sets in it really does smell yes! I have a pressurized Co2 system although at the moment I have it off as I dont see the point with the little plants that I do have as I had to bin a lot of plants when I restarted due to them being so badly covered.

I am running 60W lighting over 180L, its just the standard Juwel lighting bar over a Rio180.

 

[George Farmer]

Extract from the pinned algae article -

Cyanobacteria (BGA)
Strictly speaking this is not a species of algae but a form of bacteria. It does, however, act in a similar fashion to algae and can be prevented using similar principles.

I am no expert on BGA (or algae for that matter) but I can share my experiences with it in the hope that it may help you.

Also known as Slime Algae, due to its physical nature, it covers the substrate and plants with a blue/green slime like substance. Untreated this will spread very quickly smothering everything, substrate, plants and décor. It out competes the plants for nitrogen and prevents photosynthesis due to it blocking the plants from the light. It is also toxic to fish and nothing will eat it. In short it is nasty stuff – it even has an unpleasant smell. This is one method of confirming it is BGA.

I understand it originates in the substrate, this is certainly true in the couple of cases I have had. I am unsure as to what the true cause of its manifestation but I think stagnant water helps it and the anaerobic bacteria associated with it. Low nitrates and natural light are often associated with its spread too.

Prevention

As with “normal” algae, prevention is better than cure. These steps should help.

1. Set-up your tank according to the above principles –(see full article) in particular keep nitrates above 10ppm.

2. Avoid as much natural light as possible.

3. Try to keep the substrate from going too anaerobic. Some anaerobic areas are necessary and are found in nature. Poke the substrate occasionally, particularly if you have sand. Substrate heating can also be helpful in my experience. Hopefully with lots of root growth the oxygen produced will prevent too much anaerobic build-up.

4. If you see a slight BGA build-up between the substrate and glass (this is normally the first sign) then disrupt is by using a credit card. Slide it between the front glass and substrate. This should stop it from spreading to the substrate surface.

Treatment

There are two main methods to treating BGA. The first is a blackout. Cover the tank completely; do not let any light in at all. Wait for 3 days, no peeking or feeding the fish, then uncover, hopefully the BGA will have disappeared. I have not personally used this method but I am assured it works (except for Houndour’s case – sorry Sam).

The second is by using antibiotics. Remember that BGA is bacteria. Ethyromycine (trade name - Maracyn) is commonly used to rid BGA. It is also highly effective and is apparently fish and plant safe. The whole tank is normally treated via mixing the drug with the tank water. Dosage - 200mg per 10 US Gallon every day for five consecutive days.

I have had good results with Maracyn using another method. I recently witnessed a little BGA build-up between my substrate and front glass. I split a 400mg Maracyn tablet in half, then one half I broke into 8 small pieces. I placed each piece in the infected areas using tweezers. A couple of days later the BGA had completely disappeared. Now I slide a credit card between the glass and substrate every week just to ensure it doesn’t reappear. So far so good (8 weeks on) and I still have 99 ½ tablets left!

 

[karlp]

hmmm my original reply to this thread just disappeared.. moderators ??

Anyway, as I posted before, from what I have read (but don't have first hand experience of)......

The Aquarium Anti-biotic 'Maracyn' is sold for aquariums in the U.S, and is the most effective at getting rid of slime algae. It's not available in the UK off the shelf because it does contain an anti-biotic, but you may be able to get hold of it by ordering it online (there are a number of online sellers)

A 3-day black out can also help, but it will come back quite quickly.

Which ever method you use, you need to follow it up with preventative measures including increasing the level of nitrates in the water to above 10ppm and increasing water flow to prevent any stagnation (Not that you'd expect stagnation in a Rio 180).

Cheers

Karl.

--- edit by Karl ---

Original post was deleted by moderators because of helpful and well intentioned, but apparently against the rules link to another forum... so sorry for that...

And..

In the mean time gf225 has of course pipped me to the post with the information...

Anyway, good luck killing the algae!

--- end edit ---