Setting up my tank...

[canyoubelieveit]

It's spring break! So... I finally have time to set up my tank!

My order will be in sometime this week and it includes:

1 - 45 gallon tank
1 - Oak Stand
1 - Deluxe hood/light
1 - CPR Bak pak Protein Skimmer
1 - Hydrometer
1 - Heater

I know there is more... but I don't have the list. I will update that when everything comes in.


Here is what I have done so far:

Yesterday, I purchased 2x 26 gallon heavy duty trash cans. I filled these containers with water (from the tap) and let it sit over night.

Today, I purchased a dechlorinator and Instant Ocean Salt, enough salt for 50 gallons. I put the dechlorinator in and stirred the salt into the water.

Now I am going to buy a hyrdrometer (I can't wait for the order to come in) and check the salt level.

I will let you know more when I test the water.

Please feel free to comment, critique, and ask questions

 

[canyoubelieveit]

Ok... SG is 1.022 in both containers. This should be fine, right?

 

[canyoubelieveit]

Oh...my tank is a 45 gallon (not 45 gallon Long)

The measurements are 36"L x 12" x 24"H

Does this height create any problems with the lighting?
What lighting would you suggest if I intend to keep corals?

 

[Salt Freak]

first of all You would probaly want to consider power compacts for lighting better even metal halides. Now this is ver important you should very seriousoly consider a RO (reverse osmosis) unit. I don't know if the tap water would even be pure enough for corals. heres some. If your going to keep corals I would reach for a salinity of 1.024. My salinity on my tank is between 1.025-1.026.

http/www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/NavR...m?N=2004+113409

 

[canyoubelieveit]

I am not planning on keeping corals anytime soon. I was told that for my purposes, the use of dechlorinated tap water would be fine. If I decide to take on corals, I will make sure that I do several changes before that time using RO water. I have a friend that has an RO machine, he is the one that told me tap water would be fine. I have researched other places as well. Thanks for your concern... I know that RO water would be better, but I do not believe that my tap water will hurt my fish.

Are there any tests to do besides the normal tests for water?
I will test the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. Is this all that I need to test? No fish will be added until I am positive all levels are appropriate.

 

[Navarre]

Tap water will be fine if you are happy with algae blooms. It wont effect the fish of course but tap water can contani phosphates and/or nitrates which will feed algae and create an unsightly mes. Ok so you add a few cleanup crew i hear you say.. by doing this you enter the world of inverts and the chemicals that water authorities used to kill freshwater shrimps etc in the pipe will be just as toxic to any cleanup crew you migh tadd.
People think they can cut corners with fish only sets, it simply doesnt work and you are taking huge risks (beleive me i know! i lost 17 fish over this during christmas).

RO is the only safe way forward, if you have to cut corners on the simplw addition of water then the problems sart at the foundations and create havock much later.
SOrry to sound so negatvie but i am merely trying to warn you of the possible outcome of taking such a risk.

 

[Salt Freak]

You can get a cheap one if you look around this one made by kent marine that is under 100 bucks. It has a CTA membrane in it and it will remove about 96% of all cantomnits. Know this is pretty pure and fare better than tap water and tap water does cause algea blloms. I used tap water before whenever I started to use RO water the tank completely turned around the fish were much happier the tank lookesd much better there was more green and purple algea. basically RO water is a very small investment if your going to have saltwater inverts. Water treatment facilities can and WILL put pesticides like what navarre said to kill shrimps in the lines WITHOUT a notice. Te first URL is the RO unit I use the second one is the one under 100 dollars.

1. http/www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod...4+113409+113565

2. http/www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod...7&N=2004+113409

 

[canyoubelieveit]

RO unit on order! Thanks for your concern. I was trying to convince myself that it would be ok... I just needed a little encouragement to make the right choice. Now, I talked to my LFS and they said that I will have to add stuff to bring the pH level up after I use this filter. Is there anything else that I should be aware of while using an RO filter?

 

[Salt Freak]

yes osmo prep to stabalize the ph and bring hardness level up as RO is very unstable Ph wise as it is to pure so to fis this problem you put RO right in the water here is the stuff I use. also were did you get the unit from and which one did you get. when you get the unit chances are that you will have to discard the first ten gallons because they use a fluid to protect the membrane and this will come off the first ten gallons of water you make.

http/www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod...7&N=2004+113075

 

[canyoubelieveit]

I ordered the unit from a local fish store. I get anything I order for cost (as I know the owner). I do not know the name brand, but I was assured that it works!

 

[canyoubelieveit]

A few new questions about setting up my tank.
I plan to have my water ready and have the tank set up by the weekend.
My next step is to cycle the tank.

Should I add Live Sand or Live Rock first?

I will use the liveaquaria.com method for curing both.

Would I do less damage to the sand by setting up the rock first?

Would it be easier to place the live rock in after I put in the sand?

What is the best method?

I will be adding about 45 pounds of live rock. I was thinking of adding 40 pounds of sand, is this too much?

In any case... after adding this to an appropriately heated tank, I plan on letting it set for 2-4 weeks before doing anything else. It is important to me that I do this correctly. Is there anything else that I should add while cycling the tank? I know that water changes are very neccassary during the curing/cycling process, but I am uncertain that the live rock will cycle the tank on its own.

Please give me some input!
Thanks a bunch

 

[Great Lakes]

Should I add Live Sand or Live Rock first?

Neither. Live sand is much more expensive than plain old crushed aragonite, which you should be adding first.

I would put in a finely crushed aragonite,(IMO, better suited for pod and worm growth than sand), and after it settles well, you can place your live rock.
If your live rock come from a reputeable lfs that has handled it and stored it properly, there is little need for any further curing.

Some say that if you have good live rock, you can immediatly add fish because cycling is not necessary. I agree with half this statement. Cycling may not be needed, but let us not throw caution to the wind.

At this point, you have your sand and rock with a minimumly established biological filter. I would suggest getting a dozen or so crabs to begin with and a couple of snails. At the same time, get some frozen brine shrimp. Feed them the brine on a daily basis for a couple weeks. Doing this will help to fortify the biological abilities of you live rock and give you a chance to watch your parameters. You should be checking for temperature stability a couple times a day, ph and gh every other day, and salinity and ammonia along with nitrates avery few days.

Waiting a couple weeks this way allows you to ensure you are introducing your fish to a safe environment and allows you more flexibility to treat for any kind of algae or bacteria blooms you may incur with a new tank.

In the beginning, I told you to nix the live sand. Well, now you can add it. Don't get suckered into buying one of those huge expensive bags either. Most entusiastic friendly shopkeepers will either sell, or simply give you a cup of sand out of one of their well established tanks. This will seed your tanks sand.


On your lighting. I don't normally suggest power compacts, but you have one of those tanks that makes most other solutions inadequate, or overkill.
I don't consider NO or VHO flourescents efficient lighting till they eclipse the four foot length, and halides are usually good for a two foot spread at a 24" depth, meaning you would need two, and while that would be a fantastic way to go, it would be overkill if you are not interested in corals.

So I would go with a pair of 96w power compacts. Get them in 10,000k, you do not need actinic bulbs in the absence of corals.

GL

 

[canyoubelieveit]

Thank you very much for your reply. First of all, price is not too much of a concern of mine, as I get everything at cost (actually 25% below cost). This allows me to purchase more expensive things at normal prices. Is it not possible to add live sand first, as I already have 40 pounds on order. I would prefer to use what I have ordered if at all possible.

I am (almost) positive that the live rock has been stored and cured properly at my lfs. The reason why I thought I'd have to recure it is because I live 45 minutes away. Meaning the live rock could be out of water for as much as 90 minutes (depending on traffic). I was told that if the rock is out of water for longer than 30 minutes, then it needs to be recured. Is the "re"curing process a lot shorter.

I really like your idea about adding the crabs and snails! I think this is a real winner. Thanks!

I am interested in corals, just not immediately. I will save the MH idea for about 4-6 months down the road. Should I buy 2 - 250W MH or 2 - 150W MH?

Thanks to everyone for being for helpful...feel free to continue!

 

[canyoubelieveit]

So... I have made plans forthe weekend. My RO machine is in today. I also ordered a tap water purifier from aquapharm (this is supposed to be great). After my water levels are all great, I will add the water to my tank and get the water heated up properly. Then I will go to my lfs and buy the live rock. I think I am getting 35 pounds of Alor live rock. This rock is very porous and very light (so I have been told). After I add the rock, I will let the tank sit for a week. I will do a 20 percent water change after 4 days, and another before I put in my inverts. After the inverts are in for a week, I will do another 20 percent water change and add a fish or 2. How does this sound?

As far as lighting goes, I have decided to stick with soft corals. I will be purchasing 2- 95 Watt VHOs and an actinic light to neutralize the yellow. After a couple of months... I will consider adding some softies.

 

[canyoubelieveit]

Hydrometer problems...
As I try to stabalize my salt level before putting in live rock, I am experiencing troubles with my Hydrometer. I rinse it with freshwater (tap water), then I fill it up with my tank water and it reads 1.032!!!!! After the first time, I put it in again and it reads 1.024, which is what I am aiming for. I repeat this several times (without rinsing the hydrometer) and it reads the same, 1.024.

Is there a reason why my first reading is coming out funny... could it be the tap water that I am rinsing it with? It's funny how it goes all the way up the first time and stabablizes each time after... please help me!