removing ammonia

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nikonboy

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I have a question about Ammonia detoxifying products. From what I have read on the product web pages and in forums. Adding Ammonia detoxifyers to the water will make the ammonia non toxic, but will not remove it , so there is still ammonia in the tank. This means the next time you do an ammonia test it will show positive for ammonia !! So how do you know if the ammonia it is detecting is harmless, or new toxic ammonia, otherwise you detoxify, test and get a high reading, assume toxic ammonia, treat the water, test another day and get a high ammonia reading, assume it is toxic, treat water....... its a never ending circle, which if the ammonia is detoxified is not necessary.
 
I have no idea what those "magical products do". For me that's Harry Potter stuff, and fishkeeping is much easier. Just cycle the tank before adding any fish/shrimp etc. to it, filter it well, do water changes every week, don't overstock the tank, don't overfeed your fish, aaaaand... I think that's that.

Less chemical products you use the better.
 
I just remove ammonia - 30% water changes every week, without fail. I've never used any product to detoxify ammonia for the reasons you are thinking about. I avoid the endless loop.
If you live in a region with polluted tapwater, you might need those things, but if your tap is good, there's zero need.
 
Cycled tanks won't have detectable ammonia, or ammonium.
 
I treat it like the detoxifier doesn’t work for more than one day…I don’t know whether that’s true or not, but if you are in a situation where there is ammonia in your tank, more is going to be produced fairly quickly. Ammonia detoxifiers are very temporary solutions and are generally only necessary when there’s an ammonia crisis. It’s best to do a water change ASAP and not rely on them regularly.
 
There are two quite different scenarios here. If the question is related to the initial cycle establishment (it is posted in the "cycle your tank" forum), the ammonia will be toxic ammonia in basic pH water and more likely ammonium in acidic pH water, and once cycled the ammonia (assuming it is no longer being added as the cycling) will be and remain zero.

The mention of conditioners and ammonia detoxifying products suggests the question is not cycle-related but concerned with a cycled and (somewhat) established tank with fish present. Ammonia should never test above zero in such tanks. Having said that, chloramine in the source water can sometimes result in ammonia readings of 0.25 ppm; but otherwise, zero ammonia going forward. In such tanks, live plants and nitrifying bacteria/archaea handle the ammonia, and it should never test above zero.

The ammonia-detoxifying capability of conditioners such as Prime are temporary, and intended solely to deal with minimal ammonia if present in the source water. Seachem says this detoxification is effective for 36 hours, more or less, and involves the binding of the ammonia such that it becomes harmless ammonium. Most of our tests will show ammonia and ammonium as "ammonia." There are more involved tests that will detect ammonia and ammonium individually. But "ammonia" in an established tank should never be an issue so using these products is not the answer, but rather finding the problem and correcting it.
 
There are two quite different scenarios here. If the question is related to the initial cycle establishment (it is posted in the "cycle your tank" forum), the ammonia will be toxic ammonia in basic pH water and more likely ammonium in acidic pH water, and once cycled the ammonia (assuming it is no longer being added as the cycling) will be and remain zero.

The mention of conditioners and ammonia detoxifying products suggests the question is not cycle-related but concerned with a cycled and (somewhat) established tank with fish present. Ammonia should never test above zero in such tanks. Having said that, chloramine in the source water can sometimes result in ammonia readings of 0.25 ppm; but otherwise, zero ammonia going forward. In such tanks, live plants and nitrifying bacteria/archaea handle the ammonia, and it should never test above zero.

The ammonia-detoxifying capability of conditioners such as Prime are temporary, and intended solely to deal with minimal ammonia if present in the source water. Seachem says this detoxification is effective for 36 hours, more or less, and involves the binding of the ammonia such that it becomes harmless ammonium. Most of our tests will show ammonia and ammonium as "ammonia." There are more involved tests that will detect ammonia and ammonium individually. But "ammonia" in an established tank should never be an issue so using these products is not the answer, but rather finding the problem and correcting it.
Agree with the above, with the exception of moderate-to-large water changes with chlorinated tap water, which make dechlorinating products a necessity.
 
Agree with the above, with the exception of moderate-to-large water changes with chlorinated tap water, which make dechlorinating products a necessity.

I took that as given, but should have mentioned it to be certain, thanks. B.
 
I have a question about Ammonia detoxifying products. From what I have read on the product web pages and in forums. Adding Ammonia detoxifyers to the water will make the ammonia non toxic, but will not remove it , so there is still ammonia in the tank. This means the next time you do an ammonia test it will show positive for ammonia !! So how do you know if the ammonia it is detecting is harmless, or new toxic ammonia, otherwise you detoxify, test and get a high reading, assume toxic ammonia, treat the water, test another day and get a high ammonia reading, assume it is toxic, treat water....... its a never ending circle, which if the ammonia is detoxified is not necessary.
 
I prefer to just do a 50% water change every single week. Adding chemicals to your tank often does more harm than good.

Also, if your tank is fully cycled there will not be ammonia present.
 

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