George Farmer
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I thought I'd share my experiences on these excellent little products. This small article assumes that you use your own yeast and bicarbonate of soda rather than the Nutrafin Activator and Stabiliser sachets.
I've been wondering why bi-carbonate of soda is used in the nutrafin units.
After a bit of research I have deduced that it is only relavant as a "stabiliser" for those with soft water. I assume it is added to the water with the sugar and yeast to acheive a more stable environment for the yeast reaction to take place.
So if your tap water has a KH of 4 degrees or more and a GH of 6 degrees or more then try your mixtures without the bi-carb, you should experience none of the white "cloudy/frothy" build-up that often occurs in the bottom of the diffuser.
Here's some other info you may find useful, all calculations are worked from my own experiences -
In approx 30 US Gallons (100 litres) of tank water -
Using these figures you could modify the quantities to suit your tank size by using simple maths i.e ratios.
2 units with 1/2 teaspoon (2.5cc) yeast in each unit will give approx 30 bubbles per minute total which roughly equates to 25 to 30ppm CO2. The bubbles take approx 2 hours to stabilise.
Note - Each unit's mixture is changed alternately every 10 days, 5 days between changing for each unit to acheive a constant CO2 level.
Variables - Ambient (room) temperature i.e. higher = more output. Starting temp. of water in mixture - ensure around 30-35C to speed up CO2 production. Type of yeast, there are many, ensure it is in date and sealed well before storing.
Try to keep the canisters above the diffusers - I have modified the back of my tank to enable the canisters to hang-on. If this isn't an option then use check-valves.
Keep the diffusers fairly clean to ensure bubbles flow freely. I dip mine in a weak bleach solution every few months to remove algae and detritus build-up.
Hopefully this has proved helpful to you guys - I know the Nutrafins are becoming more commonplace. I'm moving on to a pressurized system soon but I will always keep mine as back-up.
I've been wondering why bi-carbonate of soda is used in the nutrafin units.
After a bit of research I have deduced that it is only relavant as a "stabiliser" for those with soft water. I assume it is added to the water with the sugar and yeast to acheive a more stable environment for the yeast reaction to take place.
So if your tap water has a KH of 4 degrees or more and a GH of 6 degrees or more then try your mixtures without the bi-carb, you should experience none of the white "cloudy/frothy" build-up that often occurs in the bottom of the diffuser.
Here's some other info you may find useful, all calculations are worked from my own experiences -
In approx 30 US Gallons (100 litres) of tank water -
Using these figures you could modify the quantities to suit your tank size by using simple maths i.e ratios.
2 units with 1/2 teaspoon (2.5cc) yeast in each unit will give approx 30 bubbles per minute total which roughly equates to 25 to 30ppm CO2. The bubbles take approx 2 hours to stabilise.
Note - Each unit's mixture is changed alternately every 10 days, 5 days between changing for each unit to acheive a constant CO2 level.
Variables - Ambient (room) temperature i.e. higher = more output. Starting temp. of water in mixture - ensure around 30-35C to speed up CO2 production. Type of yeast, there are many, ensure it is in date and sealed well before storing.
Try to keep the canisters above the diffusers - I have modified the back of my tank to enable the canisters to hang-on. If this isn't an option then use check-valves.
Keep the diffusers fairly clean to ensure bubbles flow freely. I dip mine in a weak bleach solution every few months to remove algae and detritus build-up.
Hopefully this has proved helpful to you guys - I know the Nutrafins are becoming more commonplace. I'm moving on to a pressurized system soon but I will always keep mine as back-up.
) will prob use my own mixture tonight.
