quick question on Fuzz Algae

Jerry Sem

New Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2022
Messages
31
Reaction score
6
Location
Baltimore
I'm sure this has been covered before, sorry. My planted tank (60gal) is about 11-12 weeks old. I dose twice weekly with EASY GREEN as recommended. I've placed the recommended amount of SeaChem's root tabs in my ECO-Complete. I give my plants about 10 -12 hours of light daily, but not on full. About an hour after turning on and before turning off I either ramp up or cut the light intensity back to simulate dawn and dusk. I was able to remedy my Diatom issue with 6 Otto Cats. On a side note, my Otto Cats are my MVP's on the team, for sure. Now I've noticed a slight presents of "Fuzz Algae". Will these Otto Cats be effective on this new menace ? I've read yes and no, on the internet. I came here to get a straight answer, which I always get here. Secondly. I would appreciate any suggestions to combat this before it becomes noticeable or worse. My parameters are Ammonia = 0ppm, Nitrites = 0ppm, Nitrates = 40ppm and PH = 7.4. Like I mentioned above, Diatoms = gone, other algae = lite, which is par for the course on most any tank and now Fuzz Algae is starting on my Vals. My Amazon Swords, Banana's and other plants are not affected .... so far. One more thing, my Vals are sending out runners left and right and taking over. They runners are growing just fine. The original plant stock has struggled and that's where the Fuzz Algae resides. I did a 30-40% water change yesterday to knock my Nitates back a bit and my fish are really responding positively. It's like I poured a Red Bull in the tank. There is so much activity. Thanx
 

Byron

Supporting Member
Tank of the Month!
Joined
Feb 25, 2009
Messages
19,145
Reaction score
11,045
Location
CA
A photo of the "fuzz algae" would help so we know the species and can be certain it is algae. But all "problem" algae is caused by an imbalance in the light and nutrients, and it is cured by establishing or restoring that balance.

Otos will not eat "problem" algae, neither with other "algae" eaters like bristlesnose, farlowella, whiptails.
 
OP
OP
J

Jerry Sem

New Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2022
Messages
31
Reaction score
6
Location
Baltimore
this is the worst of infestation, but a good example of what I'm talking about
 

Attachments

  • DSCN0415[1].JPG
    DSCN0415[1].JPG
    262.2 KB · Views: 10

Stan510

Fish Herder
Joined
Dec 10, 2018
Messages
1,926
Reaction score
1,253
Stop with the fertilizer and use iron instead- it wont fuel the algae growth. Adding algae eaters would help for that kind of algae. Green fur algae is what they are made to eat. Also- add more plants the more the better to fight algae. Using bunch plants and later the more slow growers is how to fight algae.
 
OP
OP
J

Jerry Sem

New Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2022
Messages
31
Reaction score
6
Location
Baltimore
additional pics
 

Attachments

  • DSCN0418[1].JPG
    DSCN0418[1].JPG
    302.7 KB · Views: 11
  • DSCN0417[1].JPG
    DSCN0417[1].JPG
    346 KB · Views: 10
  • DSCN0416[1].JPG
    DSCN0416[1].JPG
    356.1 KB · Views: 11

Byron

Supporting Member
Tank of the Month!
Joined
Feb 25, 2009
Messages
19,145
Reaction score
11,045
Location
CA
OK, this is not at all bad, and should be easy to fix. You are using Flourish Tabs for the rooted swords I take it, that is very good, nothing will be better for these plants. Are you using any liquid fertilizer, and if yes, which?

Light we will assume is OK. I would strongly suggest some floating plants, and I refer to substantial plants like Water Sprite, Water Lettuce, Frogbit, or some of the stem plants that grow nicely if left floating, like Pennywort. Non-substantial floaters like duckweed will not serve as well here, we need the fast growing aspect and the shade aspect. I think this will deal with the algae.

Vallisneria is a fast grower. The dying older leaves could be the plant adapting, or a lack of water nutrients which aids algae. I may have more when I know the fertilizer answer.

You could reduce the duration of the tank light...how long is it on now?

Do not under any circumstance start adding this or that nutrient. This will only make things worse, guaranteed. Things have to be balanced.
 
OP
OP
J

Jerry Sem

New Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2022
Messages
31
Reaction score
6
Location
Baltimore
Byron, I use AQUARIUM CO-OP's EASY GREEN, dosing as recommended on the label as "1 pump per 10 gal, twice a week". So, 60 gal, that would be 12 pumps per week. As for my lighting. I have backed off on the intensity a tad, say from 100% to 80% (it actually looks better) and cutting back on my lighting from 12 hours to 9-10 hours. I'm in my basement all the time and I would like to see my tank light, ya know. I go to bed around 1am and don't want to turn the lights off at 9pm. I would just be looking at a black box of water then. I can adjust this for a turn off at 1am, like turning on my lights at around 4pm. I'd even consider additional fish to my "clean-up crew too" Thank You again for your help. Jerry
 

Byron

Supporting Member
Tank of the Month!
Joined
Feb 25, 2009
Messages
19,145
Reaction score
11,045
Location
CA
Byron, I use AQUARIUM CO-OP's EASY GREEN, dosing as recommended on the label as "1 pump per 10 gal, twice a week". So, 60 gal, that would be 12 pumps per week. As for my lighting. I have backed off on the intensity a tad, say from 100% to 80% (it actually looks better) and cutting back on my lighting from 12 hours to 9-10 hours. I'm in my basement all the time and I would like to see my tank light, ya know. I go to bed around 1am and don't want to turn the lights off at 9pm. I would just be looking at a black box of water then. I can adjust this for a turn off at 1am, like turning on my lights at around 4pm. I'd even consider additional fish to my "clean-up crew too" Thank You again for your help. Jerry

First on the light duration, the photoperiod (= the "daylight" continuous period for the plants and fish) can be any time you prefer. When I was working, my tank lights came on at 1 or 2 pm and went off at 8 pm because that allowed me to enjoy the aquaria in the evening. After I retired I changed this photoperiod to 10 am to 5 pm in summer and 9 am to 4 pm in winter. Provided the photoperiod (the brightest light) is a continuous period, it can be anytime suitable. Use a timer so it is consistent as this affects fish much more than it does plants.

"Problem" algae will not be eaten by fish, with the exception of one or two possible species that have significant issues making them basically unsuited to smaller community tanks (smaller meaning less than 4 or 5 feet length). Problem algae must be resolved by restoring the balance so plants benefit and algae is disadvantaged.

The Easy-Green may be OK, but it does take a lot. As you are in the USA, I would change to Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement [note, the "supplement," not any of the individual nutrients which will cause more problems], or alternatively there is Brightwell Aquatics' FlorinMulti. I don't think this is critical here, just a suggestion as I know the two named products are about the best you can get for this situation (in the UK they have TNC Lite, but not available in NA).

I think the floating plants and possibly the light will deal with this. It takes time, a few weeks, so do not expect overnight changes. And the aim here is to stop the problem algae from increasing, not removing it; if the balance is OK, problem algae will not increase, and that is the end of algae trouble.
 
OP
OP
J

Jerry Sem

New Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2022
Messages
31
Reaction score
6
Location
Baltimore
Byron, with the Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement, directions state, once or twice weekly. What do you recommend for starters. Also, cutting back on my light's brightness by 20%' was that ok ? It does look nicer and not so intense. I did a 30% water change Sunday and haven't fertalized since then. Should I start with Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement, today ?

 

Byron

Supporting Member
Tank of the Month!
Joined
Feb 25, 2009
Messages
19,145
Reaction score
11,045
Location
CA
Byron, with the Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement, directions state, once or twice weekly. What do you recommend for starters. Also, cutting back on my light's brightness by 20%' was that ok ? It does look nicer and not so intense. I did a 30% water change Sunday and haven't fertalized since then. Should I start with Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement, today ?


I would only use one dose. A medicine dropper if you want. A half-teaspoon treats 30 gallons if memory serves me.

You can add this right after the water change...but, if you use Prime, wait 24-36 hours. I won't use Prime, it does things I don't like getting done in an aquarium (!), and the API Tap Water Conditioner is about the best there is. It is OK to dose Flourish after using the API conditioner. Issue here with Prime is that the chemical that detoxifies heavy metals prevents their uptake by plants, and Seachem says this is effective for 36 hours. API does not do this. And heavy metals includes nutrients iron, copper, zinc, manganese. So these would be negated, thus pointless to add.

Light should be fine. We use the plants' response to all these things to gage what we tweak.
 

Stan510

Fish Herder
Joined
Dec 10, 2018
Messages
1,926
Reaction score
1,253
It looks ok. I would say the biggest problem was you had the lights on too long. 8 hours is plenty. Your plants look healthy to me. Easy green is mostly iron right?...its the other ingredients that might be a problem for right now.
 

Most reactions

trending

Members online

Top