Pressurized CO2? Undergravel heaters?

[ecto1]

I've had enough with this DIY-CO2 crap. Does anyone have any experience with pressurized CO2, or can direct me to any books or websites detailing it?

Also, I'm curious to see if anyone has any experience with undergravel heater cables.

I'm planning the "end-all, be-all" of planted tanks. I'm using only Amazon plants and Amazon fish in a 180 US gallon tank. I'm currently only in the planning stages, but fishkeeping is no longer just a hobby to me - I'm going to make this into a career (somehow), and I'd like to gain more experience with the best of setups.

 

[jimboliana]

ecto1

I have not had any experience with either yet though i have bought all the pressurized CO2 and undergravel heater cables, you can see what i got on my journal in this link http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=87889

The price of the Dennerle equipment is quite expensive in the UK so i got alot on ebay direct from Germany at a fraction of the cost and saved some doller, just ask people like gf225, like me he swears by it and uses some of there stuff, i would recommend it but its not set up yet but i belive if you want

"end-all, be-all" of planted tanks

then this is what you want or something like it

I'm sure some people will disagree with me but then thats just my opinion

Jim

 

[George Farmer]

A Pressurized CO2 system is definitely the way to go for reliable and constant CO2 output especially in a larger aquarium. It normally consists of

1. a refillable cylinder (various sizes from 350ml to 2 litres or more),

2. an adjustable regulator to safely bring down the pressure to useable levels,

3. CO2 proof hosing,

4. check valve to ensure one-way flow,

5. a bubble-counter for easy dosage (normally measured bubbles per second)

6. and finally a diffuser to ensure the CO2 gets dissolved in the water.

There are many different types of all the above available to buy, probably the most economical way is to buy a complete kit. Some you can DIY (although this isn't my area of knowledge).

For the more advanced aquarist (and richer!) one can fit a night shut-off solenoid as CO2 isn't required at night and this can prevent pH swings - this normally switches on/off with the lights. For the ultimate in control a pH controller can be linked to the solenoid thus providing a very stable pH. These require calibrating frequently.

A good CO2 level for plants is 20 to 30 mg/l. You can test for this using pH and KH test kits and cross referring to a pH/KH/CO2 table i.e. link http/www.floridadriftwood.com/page.asp?id=16

Some CO2 systems come complete with a long-term CO2 indicator which sit inside the tank and give a colour indication of the CO2 level.

Be aware that when adding CO2 a very low KH (<2 degrees or 40 mg/l) may cause a large pH drop due to the limited buffering capacity.

Substrate heating is great IMO. It provides numerous benefits. Try this link.
http/www.fishprofiles.net/faq/plant-cables.asp