Plumbing Advice

[chrissaysyes]

ok so it's a basic setup. I want to use my old 10g refugium with my 14g biocube because it's too big to fit in the stand for my 55g or anywhere near it, but it fits nicely in the stand for my nano. Also I want to use it in conjunction with my brine shrimp hatchery to eventually feed dwarf seahorses in the biocube. Im just wondering if anyone has any ideas on how to do the plumbing between the cube and to fuge. I think an overflow would actually fit somewhat nicely but it would be pretty ugly. Anyone ever do this before or have any ideas?

 

[pengy666]

you could use a HOB overflow they are very cheap and effective and not that noticeable?

You could use a scwd to return too!

 

[SkiFletch]

Sure, just scale down a durso or calfo overflow

 

[Adrinal]

Jimo, if you can't drill it, dont do it. Lots of folks will tell you, I have used a siphon over flow for xxx moths/years. They are just LUCKY. Its like using an electric wire with no drip loop. You would just be LUCKY your house didn't burn down yet.

Seriously, reef safe!

 

[chrissaysyes]

I should probably get those drip loops setup better downstairs now that I think of it.

The whole idea of drilling though...the back of the cube is made of a weak plastic rather than acrylic, it seems like drilling would be easy, anyone ever had any experience drilling one of these nano/bio/whatever cubes? Also...I think an overflow would involve a little too much modification of the hood, otherwise Im not sure where I could put the siphon.

 

[SkiFletch]

...the back of the cube is made of a weak plastic rather than acrylic,

It's a common mis-conception that drilling a tank will make the drilled wall of the tank weaker...

However, if the tank is drilled slowly and it experiences no chips around the edges of the drill-hole (aka properly), installing a bulkhead in that hole can actually increase strength of the tank wall by having the bulkhead reinforcement. Of course if you bump the bulkhead too hard (apply impulse force), it will break easier, but that's why people drill backs and bottoms of tanks

 

[chrissaysyes]

is it that simple then with acrylic? Just drill it? Any specifics on the drill bit? I feel like it would be easier and just as effective to cut a gap in the lid between the hindges....what would be a good tool for cutting plastic? I've used metal snips in the past and come out with pretty sloppy looking results but still effective.

 

[Adrinal]

carpenters hole saw is fine.... with a pilot bit of course. watch as you pop in so as the teath dont bite. 10 second job boom.

make sure you fit the hole saw to the bulkhead or uniseal before you drill the hole. you want the bulkhead to just slip into the hole but not so loose the flanges don't cover it well.
if the wall is less than 1/4" thick I wouldn't use a uniseal... or if your not good with plumbing.

make sure the flange is inside with the rubber. If you put the rubber on the nut side it will buckle as you turn it. turn firm with your hand, but not hard.

hth

oh and get the flock off while it is hot or else you will have to come back with a file!

 

[chrissaysyes]

hmm...I've actually decided not to drill that tank as I'm worried the addition of a sump/fuge would create too much flow for dwarf seahorses. Thanks a million though...I take it drilling glass is a whole other story?

 

[SkiFletch]

hmm...I've actually decided not to drill that tank as I'm worried the addition of a sump/fuge would create too much flow for dwarf seahorses. Thanks a million though...I take it drilling glass is a whole other story?

Just use a glass holesaw, go slow, use water as a coolant.