randallhart
Fish Addict
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- May 20, 2007
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I knew the angel was going to die. I just tried to keep hope alive. 


Sorry?Ok bandwagon listen up! Yes it MIGHT be ok but then again, thier are two checkboxes that haven't been attended to!
One: Better then average filter
Two: Large water changes done religiously.
He didn't say he has an "awesome" filter or that he did his water changes religiously. Get off your bums and think individually and stop repeating yourselves just to get your "oh so lovely post count" higher.
1" per gallon is one of the worst things ever to hit fishkeeping IMO. It makes people who don't know a lot instantly criticise other set ups without any real information on how the system is maintained.
Indeed, as an initial guide it is useful, but almost no one treats it as such. People either ignore it completely (such as myself) or treat it as a hard and fast rule. That is why I feel it is such a bad thing.
The reason people have started replying about it not being overstocked is purely because someone claimed it was based on the 1" per gallon. You then moaned at people agreeing with me. You seem to have a bee in your bonnet about anyone having a view contrary to someone else and others agreeing with the second view.Andywg, saying to get over myself doesn't make any sense as this has nothing to do with me. Nor did I say that this may-be-overstocking was based on the 1" per gallon rule at all, but rather on what fish can be comfortable in. I do agree that the 1" rule is a bad guideline.
(I checked that last post. I spelt it "banwagon", which was a typo for "bandwagon", never spelt it as "ban wagon". It’s a great way to categorize people feeding off one persons post)
I sort of like the rule- within its very obvious limits- simply because it represents a counterbalance to the ideal that most beginners are going to have at the back of their head: that of the busy crowded lfs tank.
I was referring to the current situation, where the swimming space and territorial requirements are not a problem. I myself did not mention about checkboxes, just that if the OP has them then this tank is in absolutely no problems regarding the stock's sizes (notwithstanding the advice I gave on suitablility to water conditions).To your checkbox of filtration and water changes, I would like to add swimming space and territoriality.Even the most massive filtration in the world wouldn't justify cramming fish in so as to leave them short of individual space. Which is what lfs have to do- but then that is on a short term basis.
In the current case, the only problem is clearly that goby, which needs rehoming, or setting up in a separate tank.
I dare you to create a new account,The only time I ever count up inches per gallon is to see just how flamed I would get for listing my current tanks' occupants if I were a newcomer to this forum.

Here is something I wrote some time ago. It takes into account various points (name removed) made above and covers "over stocking." The 1" of fish per gallon rule works ok if all the fishes in the tank are 1" or less. Mass, not length, is the key and a 6" fish does not have six times the mass of a 1" fish but more like 12 times. In other cases, two fish of the same length may not require the same amount of space. A 10 inch Farlowella does not take up the same space (nor impact filtration) like a 10 inch Hypostomus. No system is perfect, not even mine.
-Shane
Shane’s Stocking Guidelines (Version II)
Current formulas do not take into account the two most important aspects that affect stocking levels - Filtration and Frequency/volume of water changes. Imagine a 20 gallon "long" type tank with 30 small Corydoras. If it had a powerful sponge filter (say rated at 40 gallons) and the aquarist did 50 percent water changes every three to four days, this tank would run very well. Now imagine the same tank with a small hang on the back power filter receiving 20 percent water changes every two weeks. In the second tank the fish would be dropping like flys in a short while.
I do understand why people seek out stocking "rules" as everyone needs some sort of general guidline. Perhaps the best way to do it would be on some sort of points system.
Tank points:
Since O2 exchange takes at the water's surface, surface area is the key factor.
A tank's available stocking points are its length X width (L X W).
Depth gives extra gallons that help dilute fish waste between water changes, but has no impact on the available "breathing space" of the tank.
Standard US 10 gallon 20" X 10" (200 points)
Standard US 20 "long" 30" X 10" (300 points
Standard US 40 "breeder" 36" X 18" (648 points)
Standard US 55 gallon 48" X 12" (576 points)
Quickly obvious is that twice the gallons holding capacity does not always equal twice the available "breathing space." It is also clear that tank shape (surface area) is more important than actual gallons held.
Fish points:
Points are for the size of an adult fish and are standard length. Round less than 20 points down (i.e. 310 fish points in a 300 point tank is ok).
Each 1" fish = 20 points
Each 2" fish = 40 points
Each 3" fish = 80 points
Each 4" fish = 160 points
Each 5" fish = 200 points (the formula changes as a 5" fish is not twice as massive as a 4" fish)
Each 6" fish = 250 points
Sample tanks:
Our aquarist has a 20 gallon “long†aquarium (30†X 10â€) and 300 tank points.
A) 15 Corydoras habrosus (fifteen 20 point fish)
B) 8 Corydoras panda (eight 40 point fish)
C) 20 gallon community: 8 neon tetras (160 points), two dwarf cichlids (80 points) and three Otocinclus (60) equals 300 points. I think that this is a safe stocking level for the average community tank with "normal" filtration and 10-20 percent water changes every week or two.
Important: No SINGLE fish's points should ever add up to MORE than half of the tank's total available points. This means that no fish over 4" (160 points) will be comfortable in a 20 gallon tank (300 points).
For the advanced aquarist that pays close attention, add the following variables:
Water Changes:
Every water change per week over 30 percent (up to 3 water changes): Add 25 percent more points. Our sample 20 gallon long, with a weekly 30 percent water change, could now hold 75 more points or 375 points total. With three 30 percent water changes per week it could hold a total of 300 plus 75 plus 75 plus 75 = 525 points. Note that these figures are about where we see importer and pet store stocking levels. Keeping a tank’s points this high through water changes should only happen in an emergency or temporary holding tank.
Filtration:
Average filtration would be considered a filter in good maintenance, and maintained by the manufacturer's instructions with regards to changing the filter's media, that turns the tank's volume over 8 times per hour (4 for canister filters). Thus, for our sample 20 gallon long tank, a powerfilter rated at 160 gallons per hour (gph) would be considered average. For every doubling of the turnover rate, add 25 percent more points. Thus if the 20 long had 320 gph of filtration, it would gain 75 additional stocking points.
The water changes and filtration variables should work together. In other words, our 20 gallon long tank with once weekly water changes of 30 percent (plus 75 points) and a 320 gph filter (plus 75 points) can now hold 450 points.
Some Notes:
No formula takes into account specific behaviors, aggressiveness or territoriality.
Slender, sedentary fishes should be counted accordingly. As stated, a 10 inch Farlowella does not need the space of a 10 inch Hypostomus.
All in all, a tank should be considered FULL at 1.5 times its base points. Going over this should be temporary, such as in the case of an exporter's holding tank or a quarantine tank.
Our fish length points formula continues. I stopped at 6 inches as this is about as big of fish as the average hobbyist will maintain. Above 6", points go up 10 percent per inch to reflect smaller increases in mass vs. length.
Each 7" fish = 275 points
Each 8" fish = 302.5 points
Each 9" fish = 332 points
Each 10" fish = 365 points
Remember that no single fish's points should ever add up to more than half of the tank's total available points. A 10 inch fish needs a 730 point tank (60" X 12" or 48" X 15" for example) to move around.
Sorry if you think in metrics.
Remember that no single fish's points should ever add up to more than half of the tank's total available points. A 10 inch fish needs a 730 point tank (60" X 12" or 48" X 15" for example) to move around.
but is also far harder to remember and is less likely to be able to be used when quickly trying to work out if a fish would be ok in your tank.