Plant Guides Per Tank

Jen

Fish Gatherer
Joined
Dec 6, 2003
Messages
2,299
Reaction score
75
Location
Southern Ontario, Canada
numberplants-600x450.jpg


Tank: 90 US gallons. 48" x 18" x 24"
Lights: Currently 1.2 wpg. Power Compact lights, capable of 2.4 wpg, turned down due to algae. They are on 8 hours a day with a 3 hour siesta in the middle.
Filter: Fluval 304 with bio balls, filter floss, carbon sleeve, and foam.
CO2: Pressurized 5lb tank. Shooting for 30ppm.
Subtrate: Pool filter sand with layer of laterite on the bottom

kH: 6
pH: 6.8
Nitrates: I inject up to 15ppm every other day
P04: I inject up to 2ppm every other day
Temperature: 76°

Plants:

1. Vallisneria americana (gigantea) and Vallisneria spiralis
2. Amazon Sword
3. Ludwiga Repens
4. Tiger Lotus
5. Echinodorus angustifolius
6. Java Fern
7. Ludwiga Arcuata
8. Anubias Lanceolata
9. Cryptocoryne Undulata (and a few other varieties)
10. Hydrocotyle Verticillata (Pennywort)

I also have some Cabomba and Hygrophilia Difformis in the tank, but not in that picture.

1. The val grows much better in the tank since adding the co2. Before it was getting all mushy and not growing well.
2. The Amazon sword if thriving in this tank. The leaves are huge, and sending off tons of daughter plants.
3. The red of this plant is just beautiful. Grew tall fast, but is a little leggy at the bottom. I don't know if the light just isnt reaching down to the bottom. Once I get the lights up to full force I hope to see some improvement.
4. I wasn't sure how this would do. Red plants need lots of light. I've been lucky with it.
5. I expected this plant to stay short, more like a hair grass, but it's getting on the long side. I still like it, it's filling in the front nicely, which should give it a nice flowy look to it.
6. It's actually kinda hard to tell how this is doing. I have it tied it to the bogwood, but im not seeing much growth. I'm also not seing many bad looking leaves, so that must be a good sign
7. This one is doing great. A very delicate looking plant, with small leaves, but it was tons of colours in it. Since adding the co2 it has really started to grow.
8. I have this anubias planted in the sand... jut the roots. The rosette is above the surface. It has just started to crawl across the surface. Nice tall leaves, and since injecting the co2 and the liquid ferts (no3, po4) I haven't had any algea on the leaves.
9. This crypt has just taken off. I have a decent sized patch, and am finding tons of little plants springing up all over the place; again after adding co2.
10. The pennywort was originally planted in clumps, but I have spread it out in hopes of getting it the form a carpet.

The Cabomba and Hygrophila Difformis has been in a week and has already grown and inch or so.
 
Tank is looking great Jen. Nice work.
 
Jimbooo's planted tanks in detail

Juwel Rio 180 - set up December 2004

40GforPin.jpg


Equipment List

Tank: 101x41x50 - 180 Litres (39.5 UK Gallons / 48 USG)
Lighting: 4x T8 tubes at 30W. Total WPG 2.5
Tubes: Arcadia Freshwater (7500K), Dennerle Special Plant (3000K), 2x JBL tubes (4000K and 6000K)
Substrate: Fine 3mm gravel with first layer Laterite
Heater: standard Juwel as supplied
Filtration: Standard Juwel as supplied
CO2: 2 Hagen Nurtafin units - diy mixture

Juwel Rekord 60 - Set up June 04

12GforPin.jpg


Equipment List

Tank: 61x36x31 - 54 Litres (12 UK Gallons / 14 USG)
Lighting: 2x T8 tubes at 15W. Total WPG 2.14
Tubes: Arcadia Freshwater (7500K), Dennerle Special Plant (3000K)
Substrate: pea gravel (not ideal) with first layer Laterite
Heater: standard Juwel as supplied
Filtration: Standard Juwel as supplied
CO2: 1 Hagen Nutrafin Unit - diy mixture


Fertilisation schedule: 50% water change weekly

I use the Kent Botanic range of Liquid fertilisers. namely Grow, Nitro +, K, FE and Micro. I am currently dosing according to the directions on the pack at water change although Nitro + seems to have no effect on Nitrate levels at all. I am in the process of purchasing dry ferts for use with the EI method.

I do also add root fertiliser sticks beneath the larger rosette plants ie Amazon Swords etc..

Plant List and findings

1 - Vallis.

This stuff grows like a weed in my tank, once I added the laterite it seemed to go into overdrive sending out about 7 or 8 runners a week. Needs weekly pruning, as the long leaves will cover the surface very quickly shading the lower plants. I prune simply by cutting the leaves 2 inches below the surface at a 45-degree angle to reduce browning at the tip. I have also noticed you can gently tug on the longest leaves and they will break off from the crown. This promotes a growth spurt for the following week.

2 - Amazon Swords
These plants were slow to get going. When I had a plain gravel substrate without co2 they would get nasty brown patches on them and tend to wither and wilt quite quickly. Since I discovered laterite and co2 they have taken off. A heavy root feeder that will thrive with a good substrate that needs to be at least 2 inches deep for the roots to take hold. When established the roots of this plant will reach all 4 corners of your tank! Prune by pulling the older leaves from the crown at the base, do not cut the stem. This will promote new growth.

3 - echinodorus "red flame"
From the same family as the Amazon sword, growth identical to above. With good fertilisation and light the red marbled effect is stunning. One of my favourite plants, prune as with Amazon sword

4 - Java Fern (pic below)
One of the most useful and easy to propagate plants in the hobby. This little forest was made from one plant I originally had in my low spec rekord 60 (in the early days). When the plant has insufficient light and nutrients the larger leaves die, sprouting small plantlets at the tip. These plantlets can be removed when the leaves are an inch long and tied to bogwood or stone. My original plant produced about 50 plantlets that have been used on 4 pieces of bogwood to create the effect of one big plant. It will grow healthily in any light but growth rate will increase with higher light.
javafernpearl.jpg


5 - Tiger Lotus Lilly
Beautiful plant, took a while to get going but once established (after 2 months) it throws off 2 new leaves a week. You need to train the plant for submerged life, remove floating leaves as soon as they get near the surface by tugging at the base; the stem breaks easily from the crown. Leaves are thick and leathery with a deep red colouration. Otto’s, Cory’s and suchlike like to sit on the leaves for a rest or under them for shade

6 - Anubias Nana
Tricky plant to grow without spot algae in my tank. Although it is a common plant in the hobby it does best in low light hence when in my tank under direct lighting the leaves cant keep up with the light so spot algae tends to creep onto the leaves. I have had success with it after putting in the lilies to shade the Anubias, with the lower light the growth rate has increased - cant explain why but it's a fact if a little confusing.

7 - Java Moss (pic below just after making the carpet - will bush out soon)
Very easy plant to grow can be attached to wood or stone and will take hold in a few weeks. Will also make a nice carpet if attached to a flat slate tile with a hairnet. Useful in lower light tanks where a carpeting effect is required.
javamosscarpet.jpg



8 - Dwarf Riccia (pic below)
Well where do I start. My favourite of all aquatic plants, naturally a floating plant but can be submerged to form a dense carpet. Dwarf Riccia is very rare and I have never seen it for sale since my chance purchase in a LFS. Online companies don’t seem to offer it either. Similar to Riccia fluitians but more compact, forms a hedge rather than a lawn if that makes sense. When the tank parameters are correct the whole plant will be covered in a dense layer of oxygen bubbles and your tank will look as if it is filled with lemonade!!
augcory01.jpg


9 - Ludwiga Reapens
Nice plant and useful to add colour to the tank. Requires regular pruning, cutting off the bottom 1/3 and replanting the top. Can be propagated easily by snipping off at the internodes and planting each piece separately. One stem can then give rise to 20 new stems (pm me if your confused, I know I am) with age tends to send out way too many mid stem roots so worthwhile keeping on top of the pruning

10 - Hairgrass (acicularis)
Seems to be growing healthily in my tank but a bit of a pain to keep in check. The runners travel under wood and stone and pop up at the other side of the tank where they’re not supposed to be, getting fed up with it myself just haven't thought of a replacement yet.

11 - Micro Sword
Okay this stuff had caused me more trouble than anything else in the tank. The plant itself is beautiful and carpets more like a garden lawn than any other plant I have come across. The problem is it has always been swamped in algae in between the blades of grass. I have never managed to totally cure the problem; it is a slow grower so my lighting levels are most probably the cause.

12 - Baby Tears (pic below)
Gorgeous plant bright green forms a bush like structure with pearling at the tips. The shape of the leaves means the oxygen bubbles are held in place at the tip. Good plant next to Riccia if they are both pearling. Needs to be prunes as with all stem plants, remove bottom 1/3 and replant the top.
IMAG12.jpg


13 - Riccia Fluitians (pic below)
Very close to dwarf Riccia but leaf structure is looser. This is the version used by Amano in his masterpiece tanks. Naturally floating but forms a neat "lawn" when submerged with bubbles across the leaf tips.
pearlcarpet1.jpg


I have not included my cube tank as it has only been set up 8 weeks, too soon to advise based on the short time.
 
TankDiagram.jpg


Plants
1. Ceratophyllum demersum (also known as foxtail or hornwort)
2. Hygrophila corymbosa "Stricta"
3. Riccia fluitans
4. Samolus valerandi (water cabbage)
5. Lilaeopsis brasilensis
6. Echinodorus "Red Flame"
7. Echinodorus amazonicus
8. Mayaca
9. Ludwigia
10. Anubias nana
11. Limnophila sessiflora (Ambulia)
12. Didiplis diandra (water hedge)
13. Valisneria americana "Natans"
14. Eichhornia diversifolia

Tank Stats
Size: 30 US gallons

Lighting: 96 watts compact fluoros dual 6500/10000K. Lights on for 12 hours per day controlled with a light timer.

Substrate: Fine black gravel with a layer of laterite approx 2/3 of the way down. Substrate heater on the bottom of the tank

Carbon Dioxide: Dual DIY bottle setups replaced alternately maintains CO2 at or above 30ppm. Will be switching this with a pressurised system SOON!!! (ordered and coming). Am currently diffusing CO2 through the tank with 2 Hagen bubble ladders.

Fertilisation: Phosphate maintained at 1ppm and nitrate maintained at 15-20ppm using the E.I. method of dosing. Trace liquid ferts added every second day (7.5ml Seachen Flourish). Sera Root tabs added to new plants upon planting.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top