Plant Fertilizers

[mark4785]

A few months ago I was advised to artifically top-up the micro-nutrients content in my aquarium water using EasyLife fertilizers like ProFito every week and to dose the aquarium with liquid c02 every day. Ever since doing this there has been more brown algae growth, especially on the glass of the aquarium which I have to remove with cloth quite often.

How do I stop the formation of this type of algae? Is it occurring because I'm adding too many nutrients too often? The aquarium only contains 2 small slow-growing plants (Anubias and Cryptocoryne) and a medium sized fast grower so maybe I'm giving them too many nutrients.


My macro-nutrient levels are; nitrate: 5 ppm, phosphate: 0.5 ppm. I've heard that deficiencies in certain macro-nutrients may induce an algae bloom.

Any feedback regarding ways of preventing algae and maximising plant growth would be appreciated.

 

[RadaR]

You are not giving them too much nutrients. Excess nutrients do not cause algae.
Carbon addition to the tank will increase the plants demand for macro nutrients. More light = more CO2. More CO2 = more macro nutrients. Best get yourself some Easylife Nitro and Easylife Fosfo.
The fact that you have only two slow growing plants doesnt help. Algae is triggered by ammonia+light. Fast growing plants will use up some ammonia quickly, preventing the algae from getting the full dose of it. However, slow growers means slow uptake of potential ammonia. Leaves more for algae. Plant up heavily with fast growers. Also perform your weekly water changes.
Btw, your test kit may say "0" ammonia however that is impossible. No tank has "0" ammonia otherwise the nitrogen cycle wouldnt work would it. The ammonia we are talking about is two to three orders of magnitude lower than what can be registered on a hobby grade test kit.

In summary:
Get some macro nutrients
Plant up with fast growers
Keep up the dosing
Keep up the water changes.

 

[mark4785]

You are not giving them too much nutrients. Excess nutrients do not cause algae.
Carbon addition to the tank will increase the plants demand for macro nutrients. More light = more CO2. More CO2 = more macro nutrients. Best get yourself some Easylife Nitro and Easylife Fosfo.
The fact that you have only two slow growing plants doesnt help. Algae is triggered by ammonia+light. Fast growing plants will use up some ammonia quickly, preventing the algae from getting the full dose of it. However, slow growers means slow uptake of potential ammonia. Leaves more for algae. Plant up heavily with fast growers. Also perform your weekly water changes.
Btw, your test kit may say "0" ammonia however that is impossible. No tank has "0" ammonia otherwise the nitrogen cycle wouldnt work would it. The ammonia we are talking about is two to three orders of magnitude lower than what can be registered on a hobby grade test kit.

In summary:
Get some macro nutrients
Plant up with fast growers
Keep up the dosing
Keep up the water changes.

Hey,

Well I do have some Easylife nitro and Fosfo but I'm reluctant to use them due to three reasons:

1. The plants are growing quite well without it.
2. There is evidence to suggest some of my stock are sensitive to nitrate levels above 30-40 ppm. I always keep my nitrate betwen 5-15 ppm.
3. Phosphate is the end product of the nitrogen cycle which means I maybe only need to add phosphate artificially if there is 0 ppm of it in the water.

Are you saying that the plants are the main issue rather than the chemical ferts and that I need to stick to fast-growing plants only?

One separate question that I had forgotten about with regards to liquid c02 is: Can adding liquid c02 to the tank cause fish to respire quicker or affect them in any other detrimental way?

Thanks,

Mark.

 

[RadaR]

1. The plants are growing quite well without it.

The algae seems to say otherwise. Light increase the demand for Carbon. Carbon increases the demand for macro nutrients.

2. There is evidence to suggest some of my stock are sensitive to nitrate levels above 30-40 ppm. I always keep my nitrate betwen 5-15 ppm.

Sorry, but there really is no evidence. Your fish will be fine with the nitrate levels. Salmolm are sensetive to nitrates, but you have no salmoln

3. Phosphate is the end product of the nitrogen cycle which means I maybe only need to add phosphate artificially if there is 0 ppm of it in the water.

No...Phosphates have little to do with the nitrogen cycle. Phosphate is the chemical formula PO4. No Nitrogen there. Phosphorus (P) is in fish food and will be contained in their waste when they excrete it out.

Are you saying that the plants are the main issue rather than the chemical ferts and that I need to stick to fast-growing plants only?

You're getting the algae because the plants are hungry. When they are starving, they begin to uncontrollably break down internally, which leaches ammonia. The ammonia+ light causes algae.

One separate question that I had forgotten about with regards to liquid c02 is: Can adding liquid c02 to the tank cause fish to respire quicker or affect them in any other detrimental way?

No. It is only harmful if you overdose. If you follow the directions on the bottle then it wont harm anything.

 

[mark4785]

What level (in ppm) of nitrate and phosphate should I be aiming for? I don't want anything over 20 ppm of nitrate in the aquarium, as for phosphate, if it isn't an harmful chemical, I don't mind what concentration level is within the water. If it is a harmful chemical, what is the minimum level of phosphate I should aim for?

I am dosing c02 as per the instructions on the bottle, but obviously, once it's in there I don't know whether it is lingering in the water or being utilised as it's an invisible process. I guess I'm a bit anxious that it will build up in the water.

The plants are visibly growing well, please take my word for it. I think if they were starving and needed more macro-nutrients, the nitrate/phosphate levels would have dropped to zero which they haven't done.

 

[RadaR]

What level (in ppm) of nitrate and phosphate should I be aiming for? I don't want anything over 20 ppm of nitrate in the aquarium, as for phosphate, if it isn't an harmful chemical, I don't mind what concentration level is within the water. If it is a harmful chemical, what is the minimum level of phosphate I should aim for?

Nitrate ideally 20ppm and up.
Phosphates are not harmful, nor do they cause algae. Aim for 2ppm-3ppm.

I am dosing c02 as per the instructions on the bottle, but obviously, once it's in there I don't know whether it is lingering in the water or being utilised as it's an invisible process. I guess I'm a bit anxious that it will build up in the water.

Liquid carbon only lasts for 24hours.

The plants are visibly growing well, please take my word for it. I think if they were starving and needed more macro-nutrients, the nitrate/phosphate levels would have dropped to zero which they haven't done.

Nitrate and phosphate test kits are notoriously innaccurate. Plants are the best test kits.
Because the test kits arent accurate, you have to calculate how many mls or grams it would take in order to reach the desired concentration.


Easy Life Nitro instructions

Use 10ml per 500 litres to increase N03 concentration by 2.0ppm and K concentrations by 1.3ppm

So, your tank is 120litres right? You'd need to dose........25ml to get to 20ppm. Seems a lot doesn't it. Maybe when you run out (wont be long) you might consider dry ferts. Much more cost effective.


Easy Life Fosfo instructions

Add 10ml per 500 litres which increases P04 concentration by 0.1ppm

So to get to 2ppm, you'd need to dose 50ppm. Crickey! Those dry ferts are looking tempting arent they.

So, 25ml of Nitro and 50ml of Fosfo. Start with once a week and see what happens. In 2 weeks you'll know if you need to increase it. Oh and PLANT UP. Get some more plants in there

If my maths is incorrect then would someone please speak up.


If you contact your water board to find out what the NO3 and PO4 concentrations are then you might be suprised. If they are good levels then you'd only have to do two water changes week. This would keep the nutrient levels up as well as decreasing organic waste (what fish are sensetive to).

 

[mark4785]

Well, if your maths is correct (I'm sure it is), I think me switching to dry ferts would be a wise decision. By dry ferts, do you mean fertilizer tablets and specialist plant substrate?

I don't really want to mess with the substrate but If you can pass on the name of some cost-effective and long-lasting dry ferts that are easy to install and contain P04 and N03 i'd appreciate that! The dry ferts I have at the moment just contain macro-nutrients.

 

[RadaR]

The dry ferts I have at the moment just contain macro-nutrients.

NO3 and PO4 (and K) are macro nutrients.
Trace elements (magnesium, boron, copper, iron, zinc etc) are micro nutrients.

Potassium Nitrate

Monopotassium Phosphate

Dosing spoons.


For a 80-150 litre tank

1/4 tsp KNO3 3x a week

1/16 tsp KH2PO4 3x a week

 

[ian]

I'm using the easylife rangne at the moment and am dosing 4 ml of p04 and the same of n03 on a 50g tank everyday, it's working very well.

 

[RadaR]

I'm using the easylife rangne at the moment and am dosing 4 ml of p04 and the same of n03 on a 50g tank everyday, it's working very well.

Is the tank CO2 injected?
Where did you get those figures from?

 

[ian]

Its c02 injected, and it was the guys off Ukaps that advised me on that dose (daily), they also advised to ignore the ppm, as that dose is recommended on a weekly dose.

 

[mark4785]

I'm using the easylife rangne at the moment and am dosing 4 ml of p04 and the same of n03 on a 50g tank everyday, it's working very well.

What sort of daily or weekly dosage levels would you advise for use in a 120 litre aquarium containing the plants that I've described above?

I currently dose EasyLife liquid carbon each day as per the instructions given with the product and I also dose EasyLife Profito each week, again at the recommended dose. I'm at a loss at how much P04 and NH3 I need to dose. IDEALLY, i'd like to dose these every week if it is safe to do so.

Mark.

 

[RadaR]

Its c02 injected, and it was the guys off Ukaps that advised me on that dose (daily), they also advised to ignore the ppm, as that dose is recommended on a weekly dose.

Ah that makes sense. Nice one ianho.

I'm at a loss at how much P04 and NH3 I need to dose.

Hopefully no NH3 as this is ammonia.

i'd like to dose these every week if it is safe to do so.

Oh yes it's safe

 

[mark4785]

I'm using the easylife rangne at the moment and am dosing 4 ml of p04 and the same of n03 on a 50g tank everyday, it's working very well.

What sort of daily or weekly dosage levels would you advise for use in a 120 litre aquarium containing the plants that I've described above?

I currently dose EasyLife liquid carbon each day as per the instructions given with the product and I also dose EasyLife Profito each week, again at the recommended dose. I'm at a loss at how much P04 and NH3 I need to dose. IDEALLY, i'd like to dose these every week if it is safe to do so.

Mark.

Its c02 injected, and it was the guys off Ukaps that advised me on that dose (daily), they also advised to ignore the ppm, as that dose is recommended on a weekly dose.

Ah that makes sense. Nice one ianho.

I'm at a loss at how much P04 and NH3 I need to dose.

Hopefully no NH3 as this is ammonia.

i'd like to dose these every week if it is safe to do so.

Oh yes it's safe

I'm not really sure what to dose though RadaR.

You gave an estimate of how much nitrate and phosphate would need to be dosed in a 80-150 litre aquarium per week in one of your replies, but that wasn't consistent with the dosages you outlined when you were discussing the EasyLife products; for instance you said 50ml of Fosfo would be needed, is this daily, weekly or monthly? It seems like an overdose to be honest.

Edit: I didn't mean to say NH3. I meant N04 (hopefully that means nitrate)

 

[RadaR]

I was going by Easylife's instructions and adapting it to your tank size. ianho has already clarrified that Easylife mean for those instructions to abide by weekly dosing.