Ph Help!

BaylorPerez

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So sometime during my last water change(last night) and this morning my PH has risen to above 8.0 which for my fish species is deadly. I am stunned as to why. I did contact my water company and they said they didnt add anything to make the waters Ph rise from the normal 7.6.
 
So in alittle panic as i do not know how to lower the Ph Naturally, as i tested my sink(tap) water and it was a Ph of 7.8(better than the above 8.0), and my outside faucet which turnes out to be above 8.0 as well.
 
As looking online all i could find for lowering water was to add Driftwood(i do have that in my tank atm, its Malaysian driftwood) and to add a Ph lower water, but none of my LFS or dealers from them have the means to do it as they say..
 
 
SO help please. this is abit more of a worry to me than having my 55 Tank stocked(as that waters Ph is the same as my 20Gal tank)
 
What was the original pH in your tank? A rise from 7.6 to 8.0 will kill no fish. Though it might not be optimal. And you should find a solution, but there is no reason to panic.
 
What fertilizers are you using.  Many nitrogen fertilizers contain potassium.   Many phosphate fertilizers contain potassium.  Too much potassium in the water will push the PH up.  It wouldn't take much to go from 7.6 to 8.0
 
If I am reading your posts correctly, you are getting different pH levels depending which faucet you use for water.  That needs to be sorted out.  Make sure the tests are accurate; it is very easy (I've done it) to add a further drop of regent for example.  Also, there is the CO2 issue in tap water.
 
CO2 (carbon dioxide) can enter the water as it travels through the pipe system getting to your house.  When testing tap water, always outgas the CO2.  This can be done by letting a glass of tap water stand for 24 hours before testing.  CO2 dissipates out of water fairly easily.  You can also briskly shake a jar of tap water for several minutes to out-gas (though someone once said this may not be as accurate...try it anyway).
 
If there is CO2 present, it will add carbonic acid which will result in a lower than true pH reading, so out-gassing the CO2 results in a more accurate test.
 
Once you know the true pH of the tap water, it will be easier to move on, but lowering the pH safely and effectively is not easy.  We also need to know the GH and KH (Alkalinity), as the latter in particular serves to "buffer" the pH and attempts to alter it will not have much if any effect if the buffering is significant.
 
Byron.
 
HarpyFishLover said:
 
peat moss?
Peat moss is decayed leaves and other organic stuff, usually from a forest floor. It's very dry from the bag.
 
 
I think you're confusing organics...peat moss is a true moss, in the genus Sphagnum, that occurs in bogs (don't think it occurs elsewhere).  It is collected and dried.  Gardners use it to acidify soil, and it works in aquaria too, but it has a limited effect depending upon the quantity, the initial GH/KH/pH of the water, and the water volume.  Depending upon these factors, it gives out at some point and must be replaced.
 
Byron said:
I think you're confusing organics...peat moss is a true moss, in the genus Sphagnum, that occurs in bogs (don't think it occurs elsewhere).  It is collected and dried.  Gardners use it to acidify soil, and it works in aquaria too, but it has a limited effect depending upon the quantity, the initial GH/KH/pH of the water, and the water volume.  Depending upon these factors, it gives out at some point and must be replaced.
Ahh, thank you. I was told it was stuff off a forest floor. But yes, very useful for gardening.
 

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