Ph And Fishless Cycling

Seed

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I have just finished using the fishless cycling technique outlined at the top of this forum for the first time. I have an observation regarding pH that some may find useful, and I noticed something about ammonia in general that may be of some importance. Keep in mind that I haven't done a real study on the topic, these are just my observations.

My tap water has very poor buffering characteristics. It comes out of the tap slightly basic, the source of the basic-ness I am unsure of. In cycling my tanks, after the first few days I noticed that the cycle had appeared to have stalled, it was no longer processing ammonia. The guide mentions that if pH drops too low the bacteria will go dormant, so I checked it, and it was 6 or less. This was surprising considering that you'd expect the water to be basic when there was a decent concentration of ammonia present. I added sodium bicarbonate to the water until it reached an acceptable pH again. In three days time, the pH had dropped again. Water changes would restore stability for a time, but it would always drop again. Partial water changes (25%) alone weren't enough to restore the appropriate pH. I ended up keeping close tabs on the pH throughout the rest of the process.

What I think is going on is that when the NH3(ammonia) is converted to NO2-(nitrite) via the bacteria's metabolic processes, that the three hydrogens are released in ionic form, at least partially so. Since there is no noticable gas formation to indicate the formation of H2 gas, I seriously doubt it is being released that way. It is possible that some of the hydrogen is being used in other metabolic processes within the bacteria, I'm really not sure and can't find any information on the topic. But I think at least some portion of the hydrogen is being released in ionic form, it is the only possible explanation for such dramatic decreases in pH.

Why is this important? The guides here all advise people to steer clear of messing with the pH of a tank, although admittedly, the fishless cycling guide does mention that it is important during the cycling process. Once one has completed their cycling process, it seems to me that keeping tabs on the pH should still be an important part of weekly maintenance. Fish produce ammonia, this is the entire reason for cycling the tanks in the first place, and I can see no reason why fish-produced ammonia wouldn't cause this same drop in pH over time. Let it go too far, and presumably the bacteria would go dormant just as they do during the fishless cycle. This, of course, is mostly relevant for people like me who have water with poor buffering capacity. I also think it supports the notion of buffering one's water if their water's natural buffering capacity is poor. Also, since pH can change even with a buffer if enough H+ is released into the water, I think it might be beneficial for people with naturally buffered water to check pH from time to time as well.

This is of course not conclusive by any means, but I thought the observation was important enough to post it. Any thoughts would be welcome.
 
Tap water can vary in its PH. Quite often it comes out slightly alkaline but after 24 hours of being exposed to the air the PH can drop. This can be due to the water being under pressure in the pipes and not getting enough dissolved gases in it. When it gets exposed to the air the gases in the water go back to normal. Chlorine also has a highly alkaline PH and this can cause an un-natural rise in the PH of the water.

The opposite can also be true. I collected some fish from the southwest and they were in stationary pools of water with a PH of about 4. They spent 5 hours in a bucket with an airstone while we travelled home and upon arrival at home the PH had gone up to 5.5. We assume this was caused by the stationary pools having a low oxygen level and after aeration the dissolved gases stabilised and the PH went up.

It's an interesting topic tho :)
 
I'll test this idea. I'll take a sample of tap water, test it immediately, and then once a day for 5 days to see how much the pH in tap decreases over time to see how much of a role that plays. Thanks for the reply, I hadn't thought of it.
 
You may be right about what causes the drop in pH in a cycling tank. It seems to be the norm rather than the exception. I'm certainly no scientist though so I wouldn't begin to try to figure it out.

There are a couple differences between a tank that is being cycled with ammonia and a tank that is cycled and only has the waste of the fish to process. In adding the 3 to 5 ppm of ammonia to the tank, you are probably adding more than a fully stocked tank of fish would produce in a couple days. It is all there at once. In all honestly, when we complete a fishless cycle, we could probably put 3 ro 4 times a norma fish load in the tank and there would be enough bacteria to handle their waste. The fish produce waste on a rather continuous basis so the bacteria can process it to the point that you never get a positive reading. There is always some trace amount of ammonia and nitrite in the tank but our test kits aren't precise enough to measure them and they aren't enough to cause the fish any problems. They also aren't high enough to seriously effect the pH.

It is true that pH will tend to drop if there is no buffering capacity which is pretty common in most municipal water supplies as they keep the GH & KH low just to make the water taste better. Once the tank is cycled and running though, any drop in pH will be much smaller and slower and weekly water changes will bring it back close to the tap pH. And even if it does start to drop down near 6, most fish can easily adapt to it. They struggle more with changes in GH & KH than pH. The bacteria won't be adversely effected by a drop either. The problem during cycling is that bacteria reproduction slows as the pH gets lower. The bacteria that are present though will continue to process ammonia and nitrite just as they normally would so once the tank is cycled, if the pH drops down in the the low 6s or even the 5s (as in some discus tanks), the bacteria will still keep the ammonia and nitrite processed.

As for checking pH, I probably haven't tested mine more than a couple times in the last year or 2. I actually probably haven't tested anything much more than that. But for beginners, I do agree that it is important to test regularly until the tank is mature and you are comfortable that everything is stable.
 
I'm an undergrad biology student. I may, assuming I have the time and can find the proper resources, do a small scale formal study on this just to try to pin down how this all works exactly. I think there may be some value in doing it.

But yes, I agree, having fish in the tank is very different from doing a fishless cycle... not the least reason is that fish are present.
 
It would definitely be interesting to see. Let us know what you find out.
 

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