New Tank With Many Problems- Can It Be Saved? - Update

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Azavia

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I was given a freshwater tank and after reading this forum's beginner resources section, I'm realizing there are many problems.

It's a 5.5 gallon tank, and when I got it, it was about 1/6 full of water and a golden algae eater in it. There was a filter in a box that doesn't work. The water was filled with algae and there is a lot of calcium carbonate build up on the glass. I added dechlorinated water to it, but didn't clean the plastic plants so the algae eater would have something to eat. Now I'm seeing that these aren't a good fish to have, on this page: http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/13133-some-newbie-no-nos/

If this fish will hurt other fish.. what should I do with it? Should I spend the money on a filter and a test kit and try to make this a healthy tank while the algae eater is in there?
 
You should be able to take your algae eater to the LFS. They might even give you credit for a trade. While the tank is empty, set it up right. Good luck!
 
You should be able to take your algae eater to the LFS. They might even give you credit for a trade. While the tank is empty, set it up right. Good luck!


Thanks :) I asked them and they said they would take him. I got the API freshwater master test kit and last night the results were:

PH: 7.4
Ammonia .50 ppm
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0

I've been using seachem prime - does this give me inaccurate readings? I've been all through the beginner resource sticky and I can't find anything about when to time testing the water and using the seachem prime. The seachem prime affects the water for about 24 hours, correct?

Should I be testing the water, then doing a 50% water change that's been treated with the prime, then wait 24 hours and test again when the prime has worn off? I'm really sorry if these are stupid questions; I've been trying to read up on this like crazy since we got this tank unexpectedly.

Also.. we still don't have a filter, how urgently do we need to buy one? I have been trying to research a good kind to get because I don't want to make a mistake.

And one last thing- the calcium carbonate build up- is that a problem? How would I remove it?
 
Give the fish to the lfs then you can take your time setting it up properly. Start over. Get a new filter. I've always used AquaClear as they are easy to use, quiet and don't break down (in my experience). I'm sure someone else will give their opinion on another good filter. Your filter media can be as follows: Bottom-sponge, middle- sponge, top-ceramic bio rings. Don't use carbon, don't use zeolite, don't use ammonia inserts. Scrub the tank using a scratch free scrubber. You can use aquarium salt or vinegar. You can use a razor blade but carefully as you can easily scratch the glass. Just make sure you rinse well after. Clean and rinse the gravel or sand and add back to tank. Fill with de-chlored water, put in the heater. Prime is :good: Set to about 76-78F. Make sure you have a good thermometer because you will need to make sure that it's accurately heating the water. You can start doing your fish-less cycle(go to the thread that talks about how to). Add some real plants. Some nice easy ones are java fern, anubias, hornwort, java moss, amazon swords, hygrophilia, najas grass. You don't need to fertilize these plants, I never have and they grow fine. After your tank is cycled and you add fish, make sure you test the water every couple of days for a couple of weeks as the increase in fish waste may give you an ammonia spike. Weekly schedule should include 50% water changes(new water has to be the same temp as tank), filter media rinsing(with tank water only) and gravel vac. In the beginning(first month) you won't have to rinse the sponges as you want the biological filter to get good and established first but water changes are always important.

Good luck
 
Give the fish to the lfs then you can take your time setting it up properly. Start over. Get a new filter. I've always used AquaClear as they are easy to use, quiet and don't break down (in my experience). I'm sure someone else will give their opinion on another good filter. Your filter media can be as follows: Bottom-sponge, middle- sponge, top-ceramic bio rings. Don't use carbon, don't use zeolite, don't use ammonia inserts. Scrub the tank using a scratch free scrubber. You can use aquarium salt or vinegar. You can use a razor blade but carefully as you can easily scratch the glass. Just make sure you rinse well after. Clean and rinse the gravel or sand and add back to tank. Fill with de-chlored water, put in the heater. Prime is :good: Set to about 76-78F. Make sure you have a good thermometer because you will need to make sure that it's accurately heating the water. You can start doing your fish-less cycle(go to the thread that talks about how to). Add some real plants. Some nice easy ones are java fern, anubias, hornwort, java moss, amazon swords, hygrophilia, najas grass. You don't need to fertilize these plants, I never have and they grow fine. After your tank is cycled and you add fish, make sure you test the water every couple of days for a couple of weeks as the increase in fish waste may give you an ammonia spike. Weekly schedule should include 50% water changes(new water has to be the same temp as tank), filter media rinsing(with tank water only) and gravel vac. In the beginning(first month) you won't have to rinse the sponges as you want the biological filter to get good and established first but water changes are always important.

Good luck

Hey thank you, that helps a lot.
 
You said don't use carbon - but the Aquaclear filter I found looks like it has carbon and a sponge. Is that ok?

This one: http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=lh_ni_t
 
That filter has carbon, foam, and a biological filter - you can just take the carbon out. About Prime: It neutralizes ammonia and nitrites for about 24 hours which makes it safer for your fish. However, it does not remove them, only your bacteria can do that. So when you use Prime your water might be less dangerous to your fish than the test indicates, but the test results are still accurate. Does that make sense?
 
That filter has carbon, foam, and a biological filter - you can just take the carbon out. About Prime: It neutralizes ammonia and nitrites for about 24 hours which makes it safer for your fish. However, it does not remove them, only your bacteria can do that. So when you use Prime your water might be less dangerous to your fish than the test indicates, but the test results are still accurate. Does that make sense?

Yes it does, thank you!
 
You said don't use carbon - but the Aquaclear filter I found looks like it has carbon and a sponge. Is that ok?

This one: http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=lh_ni_t

You should be able to buy the inserts separately. That way you control what is in it. Just buy some sponges and bio-rings. They will also tell you that you have to replace the sponges every month. This is a LIE, don't do it as all your bacteria is on the sponges and bio-rings. Only replace(and never at the same time) when the sponges are falling apart and the bio-rings are disintegrating. All you have to so is rinse and swish them in a bucket of tank water when they get really dirty.
 
Update:

I'm really excited! When I tested the water today, I got results for nitrites and nitrates both for the first time. I was only getting ammonia results before.

Today the tank had:

Ammonia .25ppm
Nitrite .25ppm
Nitrate 20 ppm

It's just really exciting to finally be seeing some progress.

The algae eater went to the LFS. I got the smallest Aquaclear filter (for 5-20 US gallons) about 2 weeks ago. Now that the fish is out, do I need to be adding ammonia to the water to keep the cycle going? It seems like no matter how many water changes I do I can't get the ammonia down to zero; probably from all the waste still on the bottom from the algae eater, right?

Also, I think I want to change to a 10 gallon tank- once this cycle is complete can I just move the water and filter into the bigger tank?
 
Looking good :good: Yes, start adding ammonia. Your bacteria need a food. And yes, once your filter is cycled you can move it to a different tank. No need to move the water
 
Looking good :good: Yes, start adding ammonia. Your bacteria need a food. And yes, once your filter is cycled you can move it to a different tank. No need to move the water

ok thank you :)

new water test results:

Ammonia: 0ppm
Nitrite: .25ppm
Nitrate: between 20 and 30ppm

So when nitrite and ammonia are both at zero for 12 hours.. the bacteria is considered established enough?
 
test results this morning (6/25):

.25 ppm ammonia
0 ppm nitrite
30 ppm nitrate

after changing the water:

.25 ppm ammonia
0 ppm nitrite
5 ppm nitrate

1pm

.25 ppm ammonia
0 ppm nitrite
20 ppm nitrate

PH 8.0 < what should I do about this? Our water is pretty hard here, we constantly see evidence of mineral build up
 

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