New Tank Q's

[Mrsdubs]

Current setup - 190l community tank
New setup 220l

So I have my new tank setup ready for fish, I have a fully cycled external filter which is currently running on my community tank along with a fully cycled internal filter, both of which are 1200 lph

The new tank will be stocked with Malawi cichlids and I've been offered 9 yellow lab fry, at only around 1-2cm each which I will be picking up later today

I'm going to transfer my external to my new tank and leave the internal in my current setup

My questions are if I transfer my external now, will the bacteria be ok for a few hours before I ad the fish?

With the fish being so small should I put something round the intake to prevent them being sucked up?

And with only having 9 baby yellow labs the filter wont remain cycled to its current level so when adding new fish how many should I add in one go? I'm going to be sticking with fry/juveniles

will I have problem with my current setup as its loosing half of its cycled filtration?

I have the api master test kit so will be doing daily tests to make sure everything is in check in both tanks

Thanks for any info/help

 

[the_lock_man]

1) Yes
2) Yes
3) An additional 30% (roughly) on the bioload
4) Depends

To be more accurate on 4), how did you cycle the new filter?

 

[Mrsdubs]

Well I started off as a total noob with a 60l tank and with advice from the lsf I set it up and added fish straight away, so fish in cycle for several months until i upgraded to the 190l

I used the old media in the new filter which has been running for around 5 months

Roughly 3 months ago I added the external aswell, as initially I was going to use this tank for cichlids but got a new tank at a bargain price hence why I'm transferring the external to the new tank

Hope that helps

 

[the_lock_man]

Yes it does, hugely.

Yes, you will need to monitor levels in the old tank, as you've taken a large chunk of filtration capacity away, but you don't know exactly what proportion of the actual bacteria you are moving. Since the internal is the older, more established filter, it's likely that you'll be ok, and won't see any blips in ammo or nitrite, but monitor to be on the safe side.

 

[Mrsdubs]

Thanks for taking the time to reply, you've been a huge help

 

[Mrsdubs]

Ok well I changed it over, left it around 2 hours then tested my water and I'm getting reading for ammonia 0.25, nitrite is 0 and nitrate is around 5

Is this because I've just changed it over or was it not as cycled as I thought? I'm worried

 

[Mrsdubs]

I have since done a 50% water change and the ammonia hasn't decreased however the nitrate did, I am now reading all zero for nitrate, nitrite and around 0.25 for ammonia

I'm confused as to where the ammonia has come from tho as I tested my tap water and that was zero??

The fish are now in the tank and I'm so worried for them

I just don't understand what's gone wrong, it looks as tho I'm now doing a fish-in cycle

 

[The Taffy Apple]

You are doing a fish-in cycle, but most probably a very short, harmless one.
Ammonia spikes are most common when doing a change of media, tank size and bio-load... but regular water changes with dechlorinated water as and when required will get you back on track in no time...keep up the good work.

Terry.

 

[the_lock_man]

Are you using the API tests? The ammonia is notoriously difficult to read, you need natural light, not artificial, for a 0ppm ammonia to look like it's 0ppm. THat would explain why a 50%WC didn't reduce it.

 

[Mrsdubs]

It may well have been the light, I re-tested this morning and ammonia is at zero thankfully

I was so worried lol