My Tank Sucks

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Rodders

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Well its been going for a while now (nov 05) and the water is still milky. I used some water clearer and it went nearly crystal clear but wore off in a few days and milky again.
Dosing ferts and CO2 etc...
Really pi55ing me off now as I cant work out whats doing it.
The UV steriliser got rid of the green water but does nothing now.
Still have diatoms everywhere and green algae under and on surface of the gravel and all over the glass in days.
WTF is going on as I thought dosing and co2 etc... would fight against algae.

All levels are spot on.

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH help me :crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :-( :-( :-( :grr: :grr: -_- -_- :unsure: :unsure: :no: :no: :huh: :huh: :huh: :sad: :sad: :angry: :angry: :X :S :/
 
No, i dose those different days to stop that from happening.
 
Worth a shot :)

Algae Description: Few objects are more beautiful than the minute siliceous cases of the diatomacaea...Charles Darwin

Although diatoms are commonly (and mistakenly) referred to as brown algae, their closest relatives are golden algae. The skeleton (cell walls) of a diatom is made of hydrated silica embedded in an organic matrix. Each wall is composed of two halves that fit together like a shoe box and lid. Some diatoms can move around by squirting stuff out of slits in their cell walls. There are about 10,000 known diatom species.

The photosynthetic pigment of diatoms is brown. In the summer waters of a healthy pond, diatoms can grow to such numbers that submerged plants can have the appearance of being covered with a brown mud which the microscope reveals as a dense growth consisting entirely of diatoms.

How to Treat: The most common myth about diatoms is that they are caused by a certain light level (some say low, others high) or just old bulbs. In my experience, diatoms grow in all light levels from low to high whether the bulb is old or not. Diatoms, like all algae plagues, are invariably caused and sustained by excess nutrients in the water column. As Kevin has already pointed out, silica is the most important of these in the case of diatoms. However, removing silica, which can cost serious $$$, is not necessarily the best method for tackling diatom infestations.

IME, the two best solutions for diatom control are Otocinclus catfish or simply waiting them out. A half-dozen healthy otos will clear a medium-sized tank (~55 gallon) in a few days and keep it clean
after. Waiting the diatoms out means scraping them from tank surfaces and letting the filter and water changes remove them from the water column which removes both the diatoms and consequently silica (and other consumed nutrients) from the tank water. Eventually, the plague will peak and then fade away rather quickly. For the impatient, there are silica removal resins that will take the silica out of water, but they can be a pain and are not cost effective. Or you could use a reverse osmosis filter to remove practically all minerals from tap water, but RO can cause as many problems as it cures in some cases and it is certainly expensive both in time and money.

At least one study have shown that diatoms store phosphate in sufficient quantities to provide for 100 subsequent generations.


have you had any serious PH crashes with your co2, you might of killed you filter, that might relate to you milky bater (bacterail bloom).
 
How heavily are you planted and what plants do you have? Are your plants growing well?

What are your actual specs? Lighting, CO2 level, NO3, PO4 etc?

Diatoms are normally associated with low light. The green algae you describe sounds like it may be blue-green algae (BGA). Can you describe it in more detail? Does is come off the gravel easily? Does it appear slimey and smell?
 
Its rather heavily planted.
Plants grow really fast and pearl a lot, whats odd is they pearl crazy after a water change then slow for the rest of the week.
Lighting is 1.6WPG but I was told as its a huge tank, 660 litres that should be ok.
Im dosing dry ferts 6 days a week then a water change, 30ish% as 50% is just too much water on my tank.
Cant remeber exact stats but its
day 1 nitrate 10ppm phosphate 1-2ppm i think.
day 2 trace and (iron if needed)
day 3 nitrate again
day 4 trace and some extra K is required.
day 5 nitrate
day 6 trace
day 7 w/c

CO2 according to my little permenent tester is ok. I just refreshed it to double check the reading.

Lights are on for 10hours with a gap inbetween.
I've been toying with fitting another tube, but I cant find any single water proof tubes, if I could that would bring me up to 2WPG.
I can take rocks etc... out and it does clean off easy. Glass cleans easy too. Its not slimey or smelly. SAE's dont seem to wanna touch it.

I have two Ottos, i know its a big tank and thats not enough, but they dont touch it either. nor plecs.
Cant really clean off substrate cause its cause sand.
 
Can you take a photo of the green algae? Is it bright green and grows in "sheets"? It sounds suspiciously like BGA as it's so easy to remove, "normal" green algae tends to be quite tough.
 
I just cleaned the glass yesturday, doh.
But ill get some pics of other bits when I get home.

Thanks
 
Some of the green on the gravel, I flicked it round a bit the day before so its not quite as bad as normal
9d518d8b.jpg

Under the substrate
DSCF4289.jpg

On a plant
DSCF4290.jpg

Cleaned a little bit of this rock to show how dirty
DSCF4291.jpg

A bit of a larger area to show diatoms
DSCF4292.jpg

Whole view of tank, you can see the whiteness in the water.
9f42c7a1.jpg


This is when it was planted in late nov 05
gg.jpg
 

Your tank doesn't suck. The plant growth is really good, based on your pictures. I hope you can solve your algae problem. Like gf, I also think it may be BGA, but I wouldn't know for sure.

Best of luck to you.
 
I just had a thought. I was reading a few things and I thought about something. See, I have a similar problem and I remembered it didn't happen when I had a particular plant. I never had that kind of algae when I grew elodea. As soon as I removed it, especially in my 15g, that algae became a problem. It is not the loveliest of plants, but it gets the job done, so I may plant a few of those in my 15g. A few healthy specimens could perhaps help things. It may be worth a try if you've got room in your tank for a few more plants. Supposedly, elodea has antibiotic properties. It in a pinned article here and several websites.

Funny, I don't have this algae in my 10g here or my 36g in Miami, it's just my 15g. Sorry, thinking out loud. I hope this can perhaps help, if your problem is indeed BGA.

Have a great day.
 
I'm not sure what type of algae that is but I don't think you have BGA.

It looks like a mat version of BBA, similar colour. I appears too thick and hard to be diatoms.

To be perfectly honest I'm not 100% sure what you should do. I'm afraid I'd be tempted to bin the worst case plants and re-plant with loads of fast growing stems (see algae article for suggestions.)

Have you tested your CO2 "properly" i.e using pH and KH table. I find those CO2 indicators very rudimentry. You should aim for 35ppm. You appear to have an ideal dosing regime so I doubt it's macro/micro fert related. CO2 (lack of/unstable) seems the most likely culprit.

So in summary I would re-plant with loads of fast growing stems, keep CO2 at 35ppm and keep NO3 and PO4 10-30, 1-2ppm respectively.
 
Thanks for replys, ill check CO2 with my hardness kits.
Replanting the whole tnak is gonna cost a fortune, lol. Oh well.
See how things go....
 

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