My Tank Keeps Turning Green

matt123

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Hi, I am looking for any info on why this may be happening. My tank was clear as day a couple months ago. Then when I changed the filters in the back it turned green. I brought samples to the store and ph was fine. He could not figure out what the problem was. He then tested the phosphate and said it was off the charts. He gave me something called phos-zorb to put into the filter and 2 weeks later I took it out. It took a little bit of the green away but nothing major. I did about 3 water changes since then and the water was slowly getting clearer. But then the other night something reallly weird happened. It was just a little bit cloudy and the pet goods gave me someting called Bclear which says it takes the cloudiness out of the water. 2 hours later it was clear as it was 3 months ago. Next morning neon green, and now very green. What could this be??? And the funny thing is everyone is still alive. Should I continue to gravel vaccuum and water change? Pleas help me out, and it is only a 10 gallon tank. I have a 30 gallon filter on it. Any info is very appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Matt
 
Algal blooms of this type can be associated with an increase in Ammonia. Considering you have just disturbed your filter media, I would check the Ammonia content.
 
More info wouldhelp people comment.

What age is the tank? Is it fully cycled? What type of filter ad media? Temperature of water? Lighting type and duration? How much natural light?

Basically, as much info as you can type!

Irf.
 
Okay, first off thanks for the responses. The tank is only about 6 months old, been running since then, and has had the filters changed about 3 times. Changes include the sponge, carbon, and biochem. It is an aquaclear (i think) 30 gal. filter, the temp of the water is usually 72 but it does tend to change at night because of the chilly room. Small 15 watt florescent tube light which is on usually from 8 am to about 11 pm. Very little to almost no natural light because of the small windows and design of the room. If you want or need any more info, I will respond promply. This problem has been bothering me for a while and no one at the stores seem to have an answer. When this happened last time the amonia was tested and it was fine. Hopefully I can get a solution before all my guys die. I did notice some algae on the glass. Should I scape it off? Just noticed it yesterday. Thanks again.

Matt
 
Okay, first off thanks for the responses. The tank is only about 6 months old, been running since then, and has had the filters changed about 3 times. Changes include the sponge, carbon, and biochem.

Why are you changing the sponge media? That should last for a very long time. All you have to do is palce them in a bucket of tank water you've removed and give them a good shake to and fro. In most cases you don't even need to wring them out and it's best not to. Just swosh them back and fourth to get the larger debris off. You're throwing out your beneficial bacteria with that sponge. Keep it until it falls apart. Carbon, IMHO, is useless. You're better off adding another sponge instead. Some people's sponges are several years old.

the temp of the water is usually 72 but it does tend to change at night because of the chilly room. Small 15 watt florescent tube light which is on usually from 8 am to about 11 pm. Very little to almost no natural light because of the small windows and design of the room. If you want or need any more info, I will respond promply.

What kind of fish do you have in there? You have no heater so I must assume gold fish. Algae blooms can be caused by over-feeding, direct sunlight and/or too much light, and perhaps also as mentioned an ammonia spike due to your throwing out your valuable sponges. You can try wraping the tank completely for a week to block off all light, or add daphnia to the tank, which will have a very happy feast on it. A micron or diatomic filter will also work, but that adds expense and will not eliminate the cause.

While a green water algae bloom is not toxic to fish, it does consume oxygen in the water. Therefore you must make certain aeration is maintained with a bubbler or airstone, or top surface agitation until the bloom clears. You should have on hand your own water testing kit.

Regards.
 
You have your lights on for two long. I recently cut my light down to around 8 hours a day and most algae problems went away.

...
 
I do have a heater but it seems to not keep a steady temp. I have tropical fish in the tank. I do see some algae on the glass should I scape it off? what would you wrap the tank with to keep light out? Should I do a water change or no? The B clear said if it continues to get cloudy use it again. Not sure though because that stuff made it green. Thanks.
 
I agree about the carbon, it's only use is to remove meds from your water after a treatment, so as your putting the med in your tank to remove phosphates, your actually removing it via your carbon filter, so it's useless.

Lower your light levels, and as stated, keep your sponges, there is no need to replace them, or any of your filter media to be honest, unless it is damaged.

If your still having problems, try adding a few plants like amazon swords, or java moss. These will use the phosphates and out compete the algae bloom for it.

As for your filters, all you want in there are some sponges, if you want to add something a bit larger to help with debris, you could fill a compartment with pea gravel or ceramic rings, but sponges are very good. All this bio-chem and carbon is just a waste of money and valuable real estate for your bacteria colony IMO
 
Im told that alge need at least 4 hours light in one hit, so my lights are turned off for an hour inbetween the 8 hours, does that make sense??!!

EG 12.00 noon ON - 16.00 OFF - 17.00 ON - 21.00 OFF
 
Okay, first off thanks for the responses. The tank is only about 6 months old, been running since then, and has had the filters changed about 3 times. Changes include the sponge, carbon, and biochem. It is an aquaclear (i think) 30 gal. filter, the temp of the water is usually 72 but it does tend to change at night because of the chilly room. Small 15 watt florescent tube light which is on usually from 8 am to about 11 pm. Very little to almost no natural light because of the small windows and design of the room. If you want or need any more info, I will respond promply. This problem has been bothering me for a while and no one at the stores seem to have an answer. When this happened last time the amonia was tested and it was fine. Hopefully I can get a solution before all my guys die. I did notice some algae on the glass. Should I scape it off? Just noticed it yesterday. Thanks again.

Matt

Great - that's good info.

So the tank is cycled, but then you seem to effectively un-cycle it when you throw out the old sponges. Do as the other guys have said, and just rinse out your sponges in tank or freshly dechlorinated water. Bacteria is your friend, and not the same as poo/plant sludge.

The temp could be fluctuating because of your heater not being up to the job? Do you know what power it is (W)?

The lighting is on way way tto long. Experts in the Plants and Planted Tanks forum will tell you that 8-10hrs a day is best, with a one hour lights off period in the middle is best. This will benefit plants but not algae.

If the fish stores can't help you like this, don't be too surprised - and think about finding a better one to use.

Scraping algae off the glass can be a routine maintenance task if your tank requires it. Just do it, or get some kind of algae eating fish that will help.

I would try to avoid using chemicals in the tank unless avoidable to save your fish. And as written by someone else, the carbon will remove it anyway.

My tank is heavily planted, and that seems to help reduce the ability for algae to grow.

Hope that helps in some way.

Irf.
 
Thanks a lot, everyone seems to really know their stuff. I only have one fake plant in the tank now. So I will get some real plants to help out. Also every time i do a water change it's always bottled water, not tap. I do have 2 algae eating fish but they don't seem to eat it. Should I immediately take the carbon and bio chem out? Would you suggest a water change now? Or should I let it go a few more days? Thanks.
 
Thanks a lot, everyone seems to really know their stuff. I only have one fake plant in the tank now. So I will get some real plants to help out. Also every time i do a water change it's always bottled water, not tap. I do have 2 algae eating fish but they don't seem to eat it. Should I immediately take the carbon and bio chem out? Would you suggest a water change now? Or should I let it go a few more days? Thanks.

No problem....

You need to buy some fast growing plants - not just anything.

Not sure what difference the bottled water will make - no experience.

What are the fish you mention?

Yes, remove the carbon - it's not doing anything useful. And do a water change.

Irf.
 
I have a shark, 2 pleko's, gourami, snake looking guy (long orange and striped) not sure what he's called. and about 5 neon's.
Which kind of plants would you reccomend?

Matt
 
I have a shark, 2 pleko's, gourami, snake looking guy (long orange and striped) not sure what he's called. and about 5 neon's.
Which kind of plants would you reccomend?

Matt

Your shark will soon get larger and more agressive. A minimum 40+ gallon tank is recommended. They think neons are quite tasty.

Your snake looking guy is a kuhli loach. It'll grow to about 3" so it'll take up 1/3 of your tank fish capacity. They are decent community fish.

You didn't say what species of gourami; they can grow to 5".

Depending on the genus of plecostomus you have, they could stay small (3"), or grow to impressive sizes...we're talking pounds here. I'd return or re-home them and consider much smaller corydoras instead.

With your current filtration on a 10 gallon tank, you really should be following the 1" of fish per gallon rule. I feel you're easily overstocked. Be careful, neon's are very sensitive to water conditions and have a horrible time with Ich. You should think about replacing that bum heater with a new one and jacking up your water temp to 77-78 degrees F.
 
Reduce the amount of light getting to the tank and also try a diatomic filter.
 

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