Mollies All Die

manwithnofish

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When I got my first fish about three weeks ago, it included 6 mollies, 5 danios, 1 ruby shark, 1 flying fox, and 3 otos. All six mollies died within 48 hours. People suggested two things. That I use some salt and that I acclimate them gradually. So one week later I bought 6 bigger healthier mollies. I brought them home and put them into my 10 gallon holding tank to which I had added the appropriate amount of Aquarium Salt. I acclimated them to the tank water by floating them in their bag in the tank and every 15 minutes I would add some tank water to the bag. After about 40 minutes or so, I dumped their bag into the tank and they were fine, happy, and had ferocious appetites. I left them in the little tank for a week during which time I did two water changes (20% and 30%) two days apart. I did this to slowly replace the salt water with my tap water. Again, they continued to do very well.

Yesterday, I transferred three of the mollies to my 70 planted tank (with several healthy fish). This morning two of the mollies were dead. Both tanks have my tap water which comes from my well. All water parameters are well within guidelines (Ammonia, Nitrites, & Nitrates all zero). Other than the salt, other differences are filter systems, substrate, plants, light, other fish. Is it salt?
 
Maybe it was the change that upset them..... I have loads of mollies and i never use salt.
 
In the 1st place i wouldnt have introduced them to salt water. I've had mollies for 2 years of more in tap water and they are right happy chappies and breed.....
 
Well the first 6 I bought, I just introduced into my 10 gal. tank without salt and they live one day. With salt they continue to live even now. When I put them in my tank without salt they die.

I've read that pH can swing widely in a heavily planted tank between day and night as CO2 levels change accordingly. Possibly the culprit. In every case I think the mollies appeared healthy during the day only to be found dead at dawn...hummm. I'll take some pH measurement at different times during the day in the planted tank to see if that's it.

Have you read the link above? They seem to claim that mollies need to be in salt water. But how is it that you are able to do it?
 
I know mollies should have a weak salt content in their water. Initially my mollies were in a community tank so i couldnt add salt otherwise this would upset the other fish-they have thrived ever since so i move them to their own tank and still they are okay.My ph is normally 7.6 and i only have plastic plants so i cant vouch for your theory but it might be that. Mollies are pretty robust i find.....
 
so i move them to their own tank and still they are okay
Yes, mine are doing fine in the small tank all by themselves (which had salt added). When ever I move them to the large planted community tank (with no salt) they don't last long. Perplexed for sure.
 
When I got my first fish about three weeks ago, it included 6 mollies, 5 danios, 1 ruby shark, 1 flying fox, and 3 otos. All six mollies died within 48 hours. People suggested two things. That I use some salt and that I acclimate them gradually. So one week later I bought 6 bigger healthier mollies. I brought them home and put them into my 10 gallon holding tank to which I had added the appropriate amount of Aquarium Salt. I acclimated them to the tank water by floating them in their bag in the tank and every 15 minutes I would add some tank water to the bag. After about 40 minutes or so, I dumped their bag into the tank and they were fine, happy, and had ferocious appetites. I left them in the little tank for a week during which time I did two water changes (20% and 30%) two days apart. I did this to slowly replace the salt water with my tap water. Again, they continued to do very well.

Yesterday, I transferred three of the mollies to my 70 planted tank (with several healthy fish). This morning two of the mollies were dead. Both tanks have my tap water which comes from my well. All water parameters are well within guidelines (Ammonia, Nitrites, & Nitrates all zero). Other than the salt, other differences are filter systems, substrate, plants, light, other fish. Is it salt?

Your nitrates should not be 0. It sounds to me like your tank isn't fully cycled.
 
The ammonia, nitrites and nitrates are all zero and have been for the last several measurements. Two explanations are, one I have a lot of plants and I believe they will consume nitrates and second, I have a pillow in the filter that removes phosphates and nitrates from the water. Also I have 60 lbs of Eco-Complete which facilitates the cycling process. What ever it is, it's working like a champ (as long as you're not a molly).
 
The ammonia, nitrites and nitrates are all zero and have been for the last several measurements. Two explanations are, one I have a lot of plants and I believe they will consume nitrates and second, I have a pillow in the filter that removes phosphates and nitrates from the water. Also I have 60 lbs of Eco-Complete which facilitates the cycling process. What ever it is, it's working like a champ (as long as you're not a molly).

As I said, your ammonia and nitrites should be 0, but not your nitrates. You should keep them less than 20 with regular water changes (some people say between 20 and 40 ppm), but it should not be 0. Something is wrong there. What else do you have in the 10 gallon and how long has it been running.
 
Nothing in the 10 gal. now...all transferred to the 70 gal tank.

What else do you have in your 70 gallon and how long did you cycle it for? Did you cycle with fish or without? In a nutshell (one of the more experienced members can correct me if I am wrong) - when you cycle your ammonia starts first and will spike, then that will go down and your nitrite will spike, then that will go down and your nitrates will start climbing. That is when you know your tank is fully cycled and you have the good bacteria in there that will help break down old food and fish waste. So, your nitrates should not be 0. That sounds to me like your tank isn't fully cycled.

How often do you change the water and how much? I do about 20% once a week. My nitrates are between 10-20 (some people say 20-40 is good, others recommend keeping it below 20). When you change the filter, you should have some kind of screen or filter to take out debris and a sponge or something similar in order for the good bacteria to grow on this. This "sponge" should not be taken out, replaced, or dried out at all.

I hope this helped a bit. I find my mollies to be really hearty fish. I had them in the 10 gallon tank while cycling it (I didn't know any better) and haven't lost any.
 
The ammonia, nitrites and nitrates are all zero and have been for the last several measurements. Two explanations are, one I have a lot of plants and I believe they will consume nitrates and second, I have a pillow in the filter that removes phosphates and nitrates from the water. Also I have 60 lbs of Eco-Complete which facilitates the cycling process. What ever it is, it's working like a champ (as long as you're not a molly).


Just a quick question,

Which test kit are you using?

Does your nitrate one have 2 bottles? if so make sure you really shake bottle 2 up well and i mean really really well otherwise it wont give a accurate reading and will show not much/no nitrate..

Just a thought cos its a mistake many make, even people who have used them for long time. not mentioning no names (ME) up until about 6 months bk :lol:
 

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