I just did both a Master test and one of those dip test. Both have come out completly opposite as far as my PH and Nitrate. For my PH on the test strips is ultra high, like 8.4 as high as it goes then my Master Test kit says its 7.4 for my PH...Now with Nitrates, my Master says I have 0 and the test strip again says I have like 200. Which do I trust more?
Master test kit vs strips
- Thread starter Huntress
- Start date
SnailPocalypse
Fish Addict
test kit
Be careful with nitrates. It is notoriously inaccurate with the API test kit, because the reagents have to be mixed very rigorously. Like, paint-mixer rigorously, especially the second part of the test. I did a test where test one, I did not shake the nitrates rigorously, just a little bit. You could be getting false positives on the NO3 test because of that.
With the drip test kit there is also the sample error involved with the pipette used to collect the water (or if you just dip it into the tank, that too) and also whether the test tubes are properly clean.
One test reading 200 mg/L and one test reading 0 mg/L is concerning.
Snailpocalypse is right though, in that the API drip test kit is by far more accurate on the whole. But that nitrate test is a pain in the butt.
With the drip test kit there is also the sample error involved with the pipette used to collect the water (or if you just dip it into the tank, that too) and also whether the test tubes are properly clean.
One test reading 200 mg/L and one test reading 0 mg/L is concerning.
Snailpocalypse is right though, in that the API drip test kit is by far more accurate on the whole. But that nitrate test is a pain in the butt.
The Regent #2 of the API nitrate test should be shaken for a good 2 minutes before adding the drops to the test vial. Also, tap the Regent bottle a few times during the shaking; I am told that some of the regent may sink to the bottom and this should loosen it.
Your nitrate may well be zero, which is certainly very good for the fish. The API test is the one with the slight problem.
You might want to confirm the pH. The API kit, is this normal range or high range pH test? It is possible, if the pH is actually 8 or higher, that you need the API high range. The normal range only goes up to 7.6 so if it is higher it will not show it. On my card, the 7.4 and 7.6 is pretty close in colour. Just a thought.
I use tetra 6 in 1 test srips and for these need very little water (one or two drops per test pad) to provide results. The procedure testing with the tetra strps is:
You can take a sample of water to your local fish store and ask them to test it. WRITE DOWN THE NUMBERS they give you and record the test kit they use. The kit that generates numbers close to what the LFS generates is probably the one that will probably work best for you. Each persons ability to read color varies and some will get better results with some kits and not others.
- Holding the strip vertically above the water.
- Push it in the water very fast. Wait 1/2 second MAX.
- Yank out the strip as quickly as you can. Removing it quickly encurages excess water to fall off the strip.
- Lay it flat on a well lite surface. Preferably in indirect sunlight. Some light bulbs have a low CRI (color rendering index). If you look at the strip in light from a low CRI light bulb the color may look different then they do in sunlight.
- Let the strip sit for about 1 minute and compare the colors to the cart. If you have a saltwater tank you the salt water chart. If you have fresh water use the fresh water chart.
You can take a sample of water to your local fish store and ask them to test it. WRITE DOWN THE NUMBERS they give you and record the test kit they use. The kit that generates numbers close to what the LFS generates is probably the one that will probably work best for you. Each persons ability to read color varies and some will get better results with some kits and not others.
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