Master Test Kit Results, Advice Please.

[sut]

HI GUYS,

I have just done the API master test kit on my new fish tank that has been running for a week or so now. My results are as follows....

PH test 7.6 ... This is obviously too high
HIGH RANGE PHP ... Didn't do as i didnt seem relevant.....
AMMONIA TEST 4.0 PPM ... This again is obviously too high
NITRITE TEST 3.5 PPM ... Again this is obviously too high
NITRATE TEST 10 PPM ... I think this is ok

What do you guys recommend to improve the tanks water, i was thinking of doing a 50% tank drain, do you guys recommend more of less of a drain? ( less is better for me as im on a water meter if i can get away with it ) or is there chemicals i can buy to do this as the kit dont seem have any chemicals to help.

Thaks for any help

 

[CezzaXV]

Does this tank have fish in it? I'm praying not but suspect it does as if you were fishless I don't think you'd write what you did.

The pH is fine. I'm assuming you have fish, in which case you need to do a massive immediate water change, perhaps two, to bring both ammonia and nitrite down to 0.25ppm max. When that's done you can read up on fish in cycling. You will need some dechlorinator though.

 

[TraceyB]

HI GUYS,

I have just done the API master test kit on my new fish tank that has been running for a week or so now. My results are as follows....

PH test 7.6 ... This is obviously too high
HIGH RANGE PHP ... Didn't do as i didnt seem relevant.....
AMMONIA TEST 4.0 PPM ... This again is obviously too high
NITRITE TEST 3.5 PPM ... Again this is obviously too high
NITRATE TEST 10 PPM ... I think this is ok

What do you guys recommend to improve the tanks water, i was thinking of doing a 50% tank drain, do you guys recommend more of less of a drain? ( less is better for me as im on a water meter if i can get away with it ) or is there chemicals i can buy to do this as the kit dont seem have any chemicals to help.

Thaks for any help

I'm no expert in this field, but I am currently week 3 on my fishless cycle and I wouldn't worry about the readings or do any water changes at this stage. Unless you have fish in it then that is different !!!!!

I am sure someone more experienced will come on and tell you similar with more add on advice

Here is a link that explains the concept of cycling your tank and will probably reassure you that everything is OK, and put you on the right path

http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/113861-fishless-cycling/page__p__958624__fromsearch__1#entry958624

All the best with your tank

Tracey

 

[N0body Of The Goat]

Are there fish in this tank?

If not, do nothing.

If there is fish in there, you need to net them into a bucket 1/4 filled with their (toxic) tank water; empty the tank of all water after letting heater/filter cool down following electric disconnection; refill with similar temp dechlorinated water; turn on heater/filter; acclimitise the fish as if you have just broguht them home (ideally the "drip method" until bucket is nearly full); net fish into tank; top up tank with more similar temp dechlorinated water.

Edit: The pH is what it is, some of us live in areas with alkaline (typically 7-8.5); neutral (pretty close to 7); or acidic (typically 6-7). Many fish will adapt to our water, with the exception of extremes eg. you would not put Rift Valley fish in soft acidic water or Electric Blue Rams in hard alkaline water and expect automatic success. Do not be tempted to buy chemicals to change the water chemistry, stability is better than wildy changing water!


Find out what your tap water "gH" and "kH" is you (might have kits in your master test kit for these) and post the results... You can then get an informed decision on where to go from there, if anything really needs addressing.

 

[sut]

hi, yes i do have fish in the tank.
and i already have the dechlorinator. i will start draining the tank now then. and start filling it with warm tap water so it upto temp for the fish.

wont have have the same issue again thou with the fresh water going back into the tank it will just become toxic again?

 

[CezzaXV]

Yes, it will become toxic again, I'm afraid. You need to cycle your tank. Unfortunately you're stuck in a fish-in cycle, which involves much more hard work than a fishless cycle. If you don't cycle your tank, your fish will definitely get ill and/or die. Even if you do, it's still a possibility but one of those things that has to be done. In short, fish-in cycling involves testing the water every day and never letting the ammonia or nitrite to get above 0.25ppm. Eventually enough bacteria will grow in your filter to process it that ammonia and nitrite will always be zero. If you have a look in the My New Freshwater Tank forum and click the beginners resource centre there's loads of helpful info there

 

[phocoena]

hi, yes i do have fish in the tank.
and i already have the dechlorinator. i will start draining the tank now then. and start filling it with warm tap water so it upto temp for the fish.

wont have have the same issue again thou with the fresh water going back into the tank it will just become toxic again?

With a fish in cycle the important thing is to change the water as soon as the levels of either ammonia or nitrite show a result that is not 0. So expect to do LOTS of water changes. Also test the nitrate level out of the tap, as then you will know if the ammonia and nitrite are starting to be processed or if it is just the base level.

Also find out the baseline ammonia reading for tapwater, you need to know what it is when fishless cycling.

 

[sut]

ok thanks, what a pain lol. least i have the test kit now so i can check it each day,

just hope the filter starts doing its thing sooner instead of later,

 

[N0body Of The Goat]

You are "fish in cycling" and yes, you could potentially have toxic water issues evevry day for 60 days or more which will require massive (>50%, sometimes as much as 99% and re-acclimitsing the fish to their tank like we suggest in theis emergency situation) water changes after daily ammonia/nitrite/nitrate tests.

Is your dechlorinator Seachem Prime? If not, given you are fish-in cycling, this extremely concentrated product (5ml treats 200l and upto 5x can be added to temporarily "soak up" toxins for upto 24 hours) will help reduce the exposure of toxins to your fishes' gills. Many fish can survive the fish-in cycling to then suddenly "mysteriously" die shortly after the tank has finally cycled, because of long term exposure of amonia and nitrite.

 

[sut]

hi

my dechlorinator is tetra aquasafe, once my tank is filled again i have been told to add stress zyme to help the friendly bacteria,

 

[CezzaXV]

The Aquasafe is fine. When you do run out though, I'd recommend Prime as it's much more concentrated and will save you a lot of money.

Stress Zyme can't hurt to add if you already have it. Some people doubt the helpfulness of such products but it can't hurt to add it if you already have it.

 

[Aqua Tom]

You are "fish in cycling" and yes, you could potentially have toxic water issues evevry day for 60 days or more which will require massive (>50%, sometimes as much as 99% and re-acclimitsing the fish to their tank like we suggest in theis emergency situation) water changes after daily ammonia/nitrite/nitrate tests.

Is your dechlorinator Seachem Prime? If not, given you are fish-in cycling, this extremely concentrated product (5ml treats 200l and upto 5x can be added to temporarily "soak up" toxins for upto 24 hours) will help reduce the exposure of toxins to your fishes' gills. Many fish can survive the fish-in cycling to then suddenly "mysteriously" die shortly after the tank has finally cycled, because of long term exposure of amonia and nitrite.

I wouldnt recomend 5x dosing of prime. 2x is fine. It is an awsome product.


Tom

 

[N0body Of The Goat]

You are "fish in cycling" and yes, you could potentially have toxic water issues evevry day for 60 days or more which will require massive (>50%, sometimes as much as 99% and re-acclimitsing the fish to their tank like we suggest in theis emergency situation) water changes after daily ammonia/nitrite/nitrate tests.

Is your dechlorinator Seachem Prime? If not, given you are fish-in cycling, this extremely concentrated product (5ml treats 200l and upto 5x can be added to temporarily "soak up" toxins for upto 24 hours) will help reduce the exposure of toxins to your fishes' gills. Many fish can survive the fish-in cycling to then suddenly "mysteriously" die shortly after the tank has finally cycled, because of long term exposure of amonia and nitrite.

I wouldnt recomend 5x dosing of prime. 2x is fine. It is an awsome product.


Tom

Seachem state upto 5x standard dose of 5ml per 200l can be safely added to temporarily lock up ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. I have not plucked that overdose value from thin air.

If there is no ammonia or nitrite showing on test kits then there is no need to overdose to 5x level, I typically do 2-3x as "insurance" against extra chloramine or other chemicals added by my local water company at the weekend (when I do most of my 6 tank water changes).

 

[Aqua Tom]

You are "fish in cycling" and yes, you could potentially have toxic water issues evevry day for 60 days or more which will require massive (>50%, sometimes as much as 99% and re-acclimitsing the fish to their tank like we suggest in theis emergency situation) water changes after daily ammonia/nitrite/nitrate tests.

Is your dechlorinator Seachem Prime? If not, given you are fish-in cycling, this extremely concentrated product (5ml treats 200l and upto 5x can be added to temporarily "soak up" toxins for upto 24 hours) will help reduce the exposure of toxins to your fishes' gills. Many fish can survive the fish-in cycling to then suddenly "mysteriously" die shortly after the tank has finally cycled, because of long term exposure of amonia and nitrite.

I wouldnt recomend 5x dosing of prime. 2x is fine. It is an awsome product.


Tom

Seachem state upto 5x standard dose of 5ml per 200l can be safely added to temporarily lock up ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. I have not plucked that overdose value from thin air.

If there is no ammonia or nitrite showing on test kits then there is no need to overdose to 5x level, I typically do 2-3x as "insurance" against extra chloramine or other chemicals added by my local water company at the weekend (when I do most of my 6 tank water changes).

I use 1.5x dose weekly & have no problems. I didnt mean that it was dangerous but if you are dosing 5x prime then the saving of money in the concentration of the product is meaningless.


Tom