alisonjaney
New Member
I just found this on ultimate bettas and thought I'd share... I'm getting frustrated at finding so many different and conflicting answers
So I'll post this and hopefully we can have a debate...If anyone can offer more lists I would be grateful so I can do some research! I'm looking at getting a fish on friday to add to my tank.
# Cherry and Ghost Shrimp: These small, scavenging invertebrates are good tank mates for bettas in that they produce minimal waste, do not mind stagnant water, and can be kept in the same temperature range of bettas (though it will mean faster development and thus a shorter lifespan). Unfortunately, some bettas think ghost shrimp are a large, overpriced snack; if you see your betta harassing a shrimp, remove it promptly. You must also never use additives or medications containing copper to a betta tank containing shrimp, as it is highly toxic to these animals - as well as all other aquatic invertebrates.
# Apple Snails: These colorful snails are an active, attractive addition to a betta tank. They are capable of surviving in lower oxygen environments, and tolerate tropical temperatures - with some reduction in overall lifespan due to the increased speed of development. They also adapt quickly to nipping and are generally too large for most bettas to kill or consume. However, the ideal conditions of both species is compromised to keep both in the same tank; apple snails do prefer oxygenated, filtered water and slightly lower temperatures. What's more, they demand for survival hard, slightly base water - the opposite of the betta's soft, acidic preferences. Finally, you must have a minimum of 5 gallons to keep both a betta and an apple snail, as apple snails are a high waste species demanding 2.5g of water per snail.
# Olive Nerite Snails: These small, rounded snails are the lower waste, smaller size alternative to apple snails. A species that only breeds in brackish or salt water, nerites are a great way to enjoy snails without the risk of breeding. They keep aquariums free of algae, and are safe for planted tanks. However, they are also not as hardy as apple snails, and prefer slightly cooler temperatures. They also need a source of algae to survive, even if in the form of algae wafers, which runs the risk of the betta consuming the wafer and becoming ill.
# African Dwarf Frogs: These tiny aquatic frogs are considered one of the best candidates for a betta's tank mate. The share the same preference for stagnant, warm, soft water, and are not as likely as other fish to attract a betta's aggression. They also contribute minimally to the bio-load, a plus for those with 2.5g tanks. However, it is essential to keep water conditions pristine, as they are very prone to bacterial infections with even moderate declines in water quality. What's more, as with invertebrates, African Dwarf Frogs have no tolerance for copper. Finally, be sure your ADF is getting sufficient nutrition; because both bettas and ADFs are carnivores, they will be at odds with each other for food competition. It may be wise to feed the betta or frog in another container, as food competition can illicit aggressive behavior.
Note: Do not mistake the African Clawed Frog, a species that grows to some 5" and consumes fish, with African Dwarf Frogs! An "albino ADF" is a mislabeled clawed frog! Always check the front feet for webbing; if it is lacking, you have an African Clawed Frog.
# Otoclinus Catfish: Many betta keepers house otoclinus catfish with their bettas. These small, low-waste fish are fantastic additions to planted tanks and greatly reduce algae. They are fast without being distracting, dully colored, and do not share the same water space as bettas - thus, they seldom encourage aggressive responses from bettas. However, they require an extremely stable environment, and thus require a matured, cycled tank - preferably planted. When stressed by fluctuations in water temperature and parameters, their digestive systems may shut down. It is also important that harassment from the betta be monitored, as this form of stress can be equally serious. Finally, remember that otos are a social species that prefer living in larger groups. It may be difficult to accommodate this need in tanks that are not at least five-ten gallons.
# Corydoras Catfish: Dwarf, albino, panda, and other small cories are another popular bottom feeder to keep with bettas. Hardier than otos with a greater acceptance of scavenger wafers, cories make for a hardier algae eater in a filtered betta tank. However, they are also larger and a shoaling species, which means that they demand a group preferably numbering at least six, but always more than four. Even a ten gallon tank could thus build up a heavy bioload, in which case over filtration may be required - which in turn could stress the betta.
# White Cloud Mountain Minnows: For a tank mate more dynamic than bottom feeders, the white cloud mountain minnow is often an acceptable choice. This small, peaceful fish does not tend to nip fins, and can usually escape a betta's aggression with ease. They are very hardy, and inexpensive to purchase. However, they also prefer cooler water, so your betta's tank will need to be kept at the lower end of the preferred range. Also, a tank of at least 10g is preferred to 5g in this instance, as WCMMs are very active; your betta will need plenty of hides and plants to avoid feeling stressed.
I have had my first betta for a week now, and he seems to be very docile... he's not done the bubble nest or flared at anything. He sits happily on the pebbles at the bottom, and plays in the filter water stream... He likes to hide amongst the plants, and isn't very interested in the flaked food I was recommended in the fish shop. His behaviour seems to be different to the typical characteristics of a betta written on here. Any suggestions/ advice would be very welcome
# Cherry and Ghost Shrimp: These small, scavenging invertebrates are good tank mates for bettas in that they produce minimal waste, do not mind stagnant water, and can be kept in the same temperature range of bettas (though it will mean faster development and thus a shorter lifespan). Unfortunately, some bettas think ghost shrimp are a large, overpriced snack; if you see your betta harassing a shrimp, remove it promptly. You must also never use additives or medications containing copper to a betta tank containing shrimp, as it is highly toxic to these animals - as well as all other aquatic invertebrates.
# Apple Snails: These colorful snails are an active, attractive addition to a betta tank. They are capable of surviving in lower oxygen environments, and tolerate tropical temperatures - with some reduction in overall lifespan due to the increased speed of development. They also adapt quickly to nipping and are generally too large for most bettas to kill or consume. However, the ideal conditions of both species is compromised to keep both in the same tank; apple snails do prefer oxygenated, filtered water and slightly lower temperatures. What's more, they demand for survival hard, slightly base water - the opposite of the betta's soft, acidic preferences. Finally, you must have a minimum of 5 gallons to keep both a betta and an apple snail, as apple snails are a high waste species demanding 2.5g of water per snail.
# Olive Nerite Snails: These small, rounded snails are the lower waste, smaller size alternative to apple snails. A species that only breeds in brackish or salt water, nerites are a great way to enjoy snails without the risk of breeding. They keep aquariums free of algae, and are safe for planted tanks. However, they are also not as hardy as apple snails, and prefer slightly cooler temperatures. They also need a source of algae to survive, even if in the form of algae wafers, which runs the risk of the betta consuming the wafer and becoming ill.
# African Dwarf Frogs: These tiny aquatic frogs are considered one of the best candidates for a betta's tank mate. The share the same preference for stagnant, warm, soft water, and are not as likely as other fish to attract a betta's aggression. They also contribute minimally to the bio-load, a plus for those with 2.5g tanks. However, it is essential to keep water conditions pristine, as they are very prone to bacterial infections with even moderate declines in water quality. What's more, as with invertebrates, African Dwarf Frogs have no tolerance for copper. Finally, be sure your ADF is getting sufficient nutrition; because both bettas and ADFs are carnivores, they will be at odds with each other for food competition. It may be wise to feed the betta or frog in another container, as food competition can illicit aggressive behavior.
Note: Do not mistake the African Clawed Frog, a species that grows to some 5" and consumes fish, with African Dwarf Frogs! An "albino ADF" is a mislabeled clawed frog! Always check the front feet for webbing; if it is lacking, you have an African Clawed Frog.
# Otoclinus Catfish: Many betta keepers house otoclinus catfish with their bettas. These small, low-waste fish are fantastic additions to planted tanks and greatly reduce algae. They are fast without being distracting, dully colored, and do not share the same water space as bettas - thus, they seldom encourage aggressive responses from bettas. However, they require an extremely stable environment, and thus require a matured, cycled tank - preferably planted. When stressed by fluctuations in water temperature and parameters, their digestive systems may shut down. It is also important that harassment from the betta be monitored, as this form of stress can be equally serious. Finally, remember that otos are a social species that prefer living in larger groups. It may be difficult to accommodate this need in tanks that are not at least five-ten gallons.
# Corydoras Catfish: Dwarf, albino, panda, and other small cories are another popular bottom feeder to keep with bettas. Hardier than otos with a greater acceptance of scavenger wafers, cories make for a hardier algae eater in a filtered betta tank. However, they are also larger and a shoaling species, which means that they demand a group preferably numbering at least six, but always more than four. Even a ten gallon tank could thus build up a heavy bioload, in which case over filtration may be required - which in turn could stress the betta.
# White Cloud Mountain Minnows: For a tank mate more dynamic than bottom feeders, the white cloud mountain minnow is often an acceptable choice. This small, peaceful fish does not tend to nip fins, and can usually escape a betta's aggression with ease. They are very hardy, and inexpensive to purchase. However, they also prefer cooler water, so your betta's tank will need to be kept at the lower end of the preferred range. Also, a tank of at least 10g is preferred to 5g in this instance, as WCMMs are very active; your betta will need plenty of hides and plants to avoid feeling stressed.
I have had my first betta for a week now, and he seems to be very docile... he's not done the bubble nest or flared at anything. He sits happily on the pebbles at the bottom, and plays in the filter water stream... He likes to hide amongst the plants, and isn't very interested in the flaked food I was recommended in the fish shop. His behaviour seems to be different to the typical characteristics of a betta written on here. Any suggestions/ advice would be very welcome