Lots of questions about quarantine tanks...

Rocky998

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Ok so... I know any time I get a new fish there is a process. But I still need to set-up my quarantine tank and I'm a little I'm sure on how... Should I use a sponge filter? Does this aquarium need to be cycled? Should I always have this aquarium running like my main tank? Should I maybe have 1 or 2 snails in there if it does need to be left up and running? How should I clean this tank? I have a 20H so what size should I have for a quarantine tank? Thank you in advance for any help given.
 
First, I consider there to be a considerable difference between a QT for new fish acquisitions and a QT for treating specific disease on a fish or fishes. As you mention new fish, I will confine my comments to a tank to quarantine new fish acquisitions.

If you have the space for a permanently-running small aquarium, this is absolutely ideal for this QT. A standard 5g or 10g should be sufficient size; as the main tank is a 20g, you will never have too many newly acquired fish for a 5g. This tank needs a heater and a filter. A single sponge filter is adequate; I use these on my 10g, 20g and 29g tanks normally, so running a separate air supply to the QT is easy.

Floating plants should always be included as they shade the tank (new fish can be light skittish) and will easily assimilate any ammonia/ammonium; this will require an overhead light, but it need not be fancy. I have a sand substrate, just half an inch or so; bare bottom tanks are not a good idea, as there is likely going to be a bacterial problem without a substrate to serve as the bed for the necessary bacteria (and we are talking several species of bacteria, not just the nitrifying). A chunk or two of wood, rock or other decor will calm fish faster than empty space. I have a handful of common snails, bladder, pond or Malaysian Livebearing; you may have to drop in some food for these, as without fish this will be in very short supply.

Introducing new fish to this tank is like introducing them to their established display tank home, and they will without question settle down much faster than they would in a sparse QT. That means less stress, and less chance of ich breaking out. You may have to use a comprehensive plant fertilizer now and then, as without fish the natural plant nutrients will be very low. Obviously this tank will never need to be "cycled" with the floating plants.
 
First, I consider there to be a considerable difference between a QT for new fish acquisitions and a QT for treating specific disease on a fish or fishes. As you mention new fish, I will confine my comments to a tank to quarantine new fish acquisitions.

If you have the space for a permanently-running small aquarium, this is absolutely ideal for this QT. A standard 5g or 10g should be sufficient size; as the main tank is a 20g, you will never have too many newly acquired fish for a 5g. This tank needs a heater and a filter. A single sponge filter is adequate; I use these on my 10g, 20g and 29g tanks normally, so running a separate air supply to the QT is easy.

Floating plants should always be included as they shade the tank (new fish can be light skittish) and will easily assimilate any ammonia/ammonium; this will require an overhead light, but it need not be fancy. I have a sand substrate, just half an inch or so; bare bottom tanks are not a good idea, as there is likely going to be a bacterial problem without a substrate to serve as the bed for the necessary bacteria (and we are talking several species of bacteria, not just the nitrifying). A chunk or two of wood, rock or other decor will calm fish faster than empty space. I have a handful of common snails, bladder, pond or Malaysian Livebearing; you may have to drop in some food for these, as without fish this will be in very short supply.

Introducing new fish to this tank is like introducing them to their established display tank home, and they will without question settle down much faster than they would in a sparse QT. That means less stress, and less chance of ich breaking out. You may have to use a comprehensive plant fertilizer now and then, as without fish the natural plant nutrients will be very low. Obviously this tank will never need to be "cycled" with the floating plants.
Ive heard that substrate can be bad for qt tanks because if you are treating ich it will breed and hatch in the substrate... I was just planning on using a fake root system that I had from my previous aquarium but if you think a substrate and other things are better than I may do that. Also, how should this aquarium be cleaned?
 
for me,
i dont know if this is right
but
make it the same params as your big tank so if fish die in the qt that means they have disease or they can;t handle the parameters.
if they are all fine they should be fine in the main tank (make sure no mean fish)
 
Ive heard that substrate can be bad for qt tanks because if you are treating ich it will breed and hatch in the substrate... I was just planning on using a fake root system that I had from my previous aquarium but if you think a substrate and other things are better than I may do that. Also, how should this aquarium be cleaned?

I prefaced my last post by saying I was only commenting on a QT for new fish, not one for treatment of disease. I have had ich arrive with new fish (it is almost inevitable) but in this sort of "established" QT they are easily able to shake it off; and raising the water temp for two weeks is the only treatment I would ever use for ich anyway. I have never had to medicate for anything in the QT. Should I need to, I would do whatever was advisable for treatment, and depending upon any medications might toss out the sand, decor, etc, but as I say I have never in 30+ years had to do this. I only acquire fish from reliable stores so I have confidence in their health, and then with this sort of tank I can keep the fish in the QT for several weeks if I think it necessary.

As for cleaning, I assume you mean between acquisitions of new fish. When the fish go into the display tank, I do water changes in the QT tank with tap water but no dechlorinator. I continue this until I acquire new fish. The chlorine in the tap water will not harm plants or snails, and as for the bacteria...the plants deal with ammonia anyway.
 
Ive heard that substrate can be bad for qt tanks because if you are treating ich it will breed and hatch in the substrate...
It will do that whether there is a substrate or not. Stage #2 of its lifecycle is inside a cyst on the bottom of the tank, or caught on decor.
 

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