"Loose" Amazon Biotope

[Jordan_Deus]

I've been busy thinking up ideas for a tank I recently purchased. Right now I'm thinking an Amazonian biotope. The reason I stated "loose" in the title is I don't want it to be specific to a certain part of the amazon basin but more of a collection of the fish and plant species from the amazon basin that I find interesting and pleasing to the eye. My tank is a 60 gallon tank (Length: 100cm Width: 43cm Height: 57cm). My water parameters are:
PH: 7.4-7.8
GH: 8dH
KH: 15-20 dH

My fish stocking plan is:

I was wondering if this stocking plan will work and how each specific fish should be introduced.


As such I would like to know a bit about what plants are in an amazon biotope. The plants I'd like to keep are preferably slow growing as I don't intend to have a CO2 system if I can help it. The plants I was thinking about so far are:
1. Broad-leaved Dwarf Amazon Sword
2. Brazilian Water Ivy
3. Pygmy Chain Swordplant
4. Red Amazon

EDIT: I also would like to know what foods I should be giving each fish respectively.
Thanks in advance,
Jordan

 

[Baker]

Sounds fun, you've got a bit of a dichotomy going in your fish choices as some are more fond of dense vegetation while others naturally inhabit rather plantless environments filled more with things like leaf litter and decaying branches and roots. But I think a nice balance is to go ahead with heavy vegetation around the rear perimeter and sides of the tank and then throw some drift wood focal points in front with some open substrate areas in the front and possibly some settled leaf litter in the foreground as well and getting a fair amount on tannins in the water as most of the amazon is pretty much black water, at least in the tributaries and what not.

 

[Jordan_Deus]

Sounds fun, you've got a bit of a dichotomy going in your fish choices as some are more fond of dense vegetation while others naturally inhabit rather plantless environments filled more with things like leaf litter and decaying branches and roots. But I think a nice balance is to go ahead with heavy vegetation around the rear perimeter and sides of the tank and then throw some drift wood focal points in front with some open substrate areas in the front and possibly some settled leaf litter in the foreground as well and getting a fair amount on tannins in the water as most of the amazon is pretty much black water, at least in the tributaries and what not.

I was thinking something along those lines for the aquascape (excluding the leaf litter). I assume I can't just throw any random dried up leaves in the tank. Also are the tannins a must? As I personally would prefer the tank to have clear water. I understand that there are also parts of the amazon with relatively clear water, correct?

 

[Byron]

Sounds exciting. Most fish, including those mentioned here, occur in watercourses with no aquatic plants, so you could be "authentic" by have play sand, lots and lots of wood chunks and branches, and floating plants (heavy). The floaters serve as excellent water purifiers as they are fast growing, plus they shade the lower tank which the fish prefer. They serve to function like the marginal and overhanging forest canopy in the natural habitat.

Lower plants is also an authentic habitat. While there are very few water courses with aquatic plants, there are mainly larger rivers where the forest canopy is open and sun reaches the water, thus allowing plants to thrive. The Rio Negro is one such example. And of course there is the six-month wet season when the rivers overflow their banks and flood the surrounding forest for hundreds of square miles, and up to 30 feet in depth. The fish live, feed and spawn during this season, among the terrestrial vegetation which is now submersed. Many of our popular aquarium plants grow in such environments, like the swords (Echinodortus sp.) and chain swords (Helanthium sp.) so they are bog or marsh plants rather than technically aquatic. Fortunately the swords grow very well permanently submersed.

The tank lighting needs to be detailed; I do recommend floating plants, it will calm the fish significantly, but plants like the swords can manage, depending upon the lighting. The only issue with the plants mentioned are red swords. Red leaf plants need more intense lighting than green because they reflect red wavelengths (which is why they appear red to us), and red is the prime driver of plant photosynthesis. Green plants are reflecting green which is not so critical, though still helpful. I've not had much success with red plants over the years, because of my moderate lighting, so I've stayed with what works under my light, which I keep low to moderate for the benefit of the fish. I'll add a couple photos of some of my Amazon-themed tanks. A couple started out intending to be wood only with floaters, but I cycle with live plants and once they get started, I like the look so I leave them.

You'll see the fish mentioned (except for the Bristlenose) in some of these tanks. Panda cories need more water current than the other fish, but not excessive. But water movement is a critical factor in these habitats, as it is generally slow to still.

Byron.

 

[Jordan_Deus]

Sounds exciting. Most fish, including those mentioned here, occur in watercourses with no aquatic plants, so you could be "authentic" by have play sand, lots and lots of wood chunks and branches, and floating plants (heavy). The floaters serve as excellent water purifiers as they are fast growing, plus they shade the lower tank which the fish prefer. They serve to function like the marginal and overhanging forest canopy in the natural habitat.

Lower plants is also an authentic habitat. While there are very few water courses with aquatic plants, there are mainly larger rivers where the forest canopy is open and sun reaches the water, thus allowing plants to thrive. The Rio Negro is one such example. And of course there is the six-month wet season when the rivers overflow their banks and flood the surrounding forest for hundreds of square miles, and up to 30 feet in depth. The fish live, feed and spawn during this season, among the terrestrial vegetation which is now submersed. Many of our popular aquarium plants grow in such environments, like the swords (Echinodortus sp.) and chain swords (Helanthium sp.) so they are bog or marsh plants rather than technically aquatic. Fortunately the swords grow very well permanently submersed.

The tank lighting needs to be detailed; I do recommend floating plants, it will calm the fish significantly, but plants like the swords can manage, depending upon the lighting. The only issue with the plants mentioned are red swords. Red leaf plants need more intense lighting than green because they reflect red wavelengths (which is why they appear red to us), and red is the prime driver of plant photosynthesis. Green plants are reflecting green which is not so critical, though still helpful. I've not had much success with red plants over the years, because of my moderate lighting, so I've stayed with what works under my light, which I keep low to moderate for the benefit of the fish. I'll add a couple photos of some of my Amazon-themed tanks. A couple started out intending to be wood only with floaters, but I cycle with live plants and once they get started, I like the look so I leave them.

You'll see the fish mentioned (except for the Bristlenose) in some of these tanks. Pand cories need more water current than the other fish, but not excessive. But water movement is a critical factor in these habitats, as it is generally slow to still.

Byron.

Quite the informative post, you knowledge on the subject is impressive and very helpful. Your tank designs are really nice and I'll use them as a sort of template when planning mine out. I would like to know what plant species you've got that float and if any of the species I mentioned float. My aquarium hood has room for three t-8, 25W 740 mm bulbs. I'll start with all of them and play around with how many are installed until I find the correct lighting. I assume that id there is a very slight current this will be enough for the Panda Corys without harming the other fish or do I have to rethink the species of Corydoras in my setup? By looking at the images you posted I understand that I don't need to have Tannins in the water, correct?

I do like the idea of having a few submerged plants like the amazon swords so I guess I'm not going to be"authentic". The floating plants is a cool idea I would like to try as well and maybe a low growing species scattered here in there in the front while still leaving room for free swimming space.

P.S. Is that Java moss growing in the left corner of your 70 gallon?

 

[Byron]

Quite the informative post, you knowledge on the subject is impressive and very helpful. Your tank designs are really nice and I'll use them as a sort of template when planning mine out. I would like to know what plant species you've got that float and if any of the species I mentioned float. My aquarium hood has room for three t-8, 25W 740 mm bulbs. I'll start with all of them and play around with how many are installed until I find the correct lighting. I assume that id there is a very slight current this will be enough for the Panda Corys without harming the other fish or do I have to rethink the species of Corydoras in my setup? By looking at the images you posted I understand that I don't need to have Tannins in the water, correct?

I do like the idea of having a few submerged plants like the amazon swords so I guess I'm not going to be"authentic". The floating plants is a cool idea I would like to try as well and maybe a low growing species scattered here in there in the front while still leaving room for free swimming space.

P.S. Is that Java moss growing in the left corner of your 70 gallon?

Thank you. I like "simple," so nature does most of the work; less can go wrong. I provide the light, and minimal nutrients. Fish are affected by all these.

Yes on Java Moss in the 70. Most of the wood I have has this moss on it; it arrived on wood years ago, and though a very slow grower it will spread over time. I pulled out a couple handfuls from this tank last Sunday during the water change.

Floaters. Water Sprite (Ceratopteris cornuta) is my favourite because of its habit. I have that in my non-SA tanks though, but it is a lovely plant. The 70g has Frogbit. The 29g has Brazilian Pennywort, and the 40g has Brazilian Pennywort (a stem plant that will grow nice left floating) and at the time that photo was taken one of the larger swords had an inflorescence with several adventitious plants. I've since trimmed that off.

Three T8 tubes, presumably 30 inches in length if 25w, over a 3-foot 60g will be moderate to slightly brighter light. Floating plants should control this, and limiting the duration. My 70g has two 4-foot T8 tubes, and 7 hours is all I can do or brush algae appears. The other tanks have 8 hours, and one 24-inch 20w over the 29g and two of these over the 40g. I had to rebuild the 40g light, and would have preferred two 30-inch tubes, but couldn't get the fixture so went with the dual 24-inch. Having good tubes is important. I use 6500K over single tube tanks, and a mix of 6500K and 5000K over dual tube tanks. Life-Glo 6700K is the best tube I have found for single-tube tanks. ZooMed have one much the same, UltraSun 6500K, and their Tropic Sun at 5500K is a good mix. In your three-tube, you could try one 6500K and two 5500K, probably a tad better for more warmth than two 6500K and one 5500K.

I don't worry about tannins. Wood loses most after a couple months. I sometimes have dried oak leaves and these can add some tint. My 10g which is a spawning/rearing tank for pygmy cories and Farlowella vittata has more leaves (the best food source for fry) and the water can be quite amber.

I have my panda cories in the 70g, along with 50 cories representing 12 species. There are some fry that I rescue from the canister filter or just manage on their own. The canister spray bar gives some current on the left side, and the pandas are very often found at that end, swimming up the side into the current; they do like currents. All my other cories avoid that side, preferring still water.

 

[Jordan_Deus]

Thank you Byron, this has given me a lot to ponder and some more research is needed on my part. I'll reread your post tomorrow, do my research then reply with my findings and semi-finalized decisions about plant and fish species. Again thanks for all the help.

Sent from my MX4 using Tapatalk

 

[Jordan_Deus]

I have finished reading up on all the fish and plant species and I know know what I want. The fish stocking will be (Had to reduce some numbers because the sterbai corys are larger):

As for plants I think I'll have some amazon swords in the background, chain swords in the mid/front and Brazilian Pennywort floating on the top (maybe some anchored to the drift wood as well). Rest of the aquascape will have sand (Either play sand or a brownish sand from the LFS, heard play sand needs loads of washing) and lots of drift wood. Speaking of driftwood I have a piece of driftwood I got with my tank and I think it's very old as the entire thing is peeling little bits of wood. The wood that is peeling doesn't seem to be bark but rather the wood itself, is it safe to sand it down and put it in the tank or should I forget it and buy all new driftwood?

EDIT: How do I replicate a cave for the Bristlenose while maintaining the Amazon Biotope?

 

[thrujenseyes]

I'm super excited to see this come about!!
I was also psyched to see Byron stop in and show some of his tanks!
He's a wealth of knowledge and keeps gorgeous tanks/fish!
Good Luck!
Post pics as you go!!

 

[Jordan_Deus]

I'm super excited to see this come about!!
I was also psyched to see Byron stop in and show some of his tanks!
He's a wealth of knowledge and keeps gorgeous tanks/fish!
Good Luck!
Post pics as you go!!

Yes Byron has been a huge help in pretty much all my posts so far. As of now I'm planning everything out and slowly buying materials. At the end of this month (Once I finish my finals) I'll start building the tank stand and cycling, will start posting pictures when there's something to post lol.

 

[Byron]

I see no problems with the fish or plants in post #8. I do not accept AqAdvisor that this is 83% and you have space for more, and I would consider additional species. The substrate is fine with the sterbai and bristlenose. The Silver Hatchets (Gasteropelecus sternicla) are not strictly surface but upper level; mine remain a couple of inches below except when feeding. (The species in Carnegiella are true surface fish.) The Ember are mid-water, but so small you will hardly notice them. So, along with what you have here, you could look for additional species. My one suggestion would be a lower-water shoaling species that will remain in the lower third. There are some nice fish in the Hyphessobrycon genus, fish like the Red Phantom (beautiful red colour) or the Rosy Tetra, Ornate or Roberti Tetra, etc. If you find any, post about them, as some can be nasty fin nippers (not these mentioned, extremely peaceful).

On the bristlenose cave, wood is best. You must have real wood in the tank for this fish, as it grazes wood which is essential for its digestive tract health. You can buy bogwood/driftwood in chunks, look for pieces with crevices, tunnels, or build a pile. If you look at the photo of my 40g I posted previously, in the lefty rear corner there are three large chunks of Malaysian Driftwood arranged with several crevices and overhangs.

Cycling...I do this with live plants; easier and safer. I can explain if asked.

Byron.

 

[Jordan_Deus]

Are there any tetras you can recommend that can replace the ember tetras that are slightly bigger and more prominent? I decided to go with what you said about more species and added ten black phantom tetras to the mix, now what worries me is less that the stocking is "100%" according to AqAdvisor, what worries me is the filtration capacity. That website says my filtration capacity is at 77%. According to their website anything under 100% is bad news. My filter is the Jebo 825 canister filter, it pumps water at 1000 liter per hour and it's volume is about 9 liters. I don't have the money to buy another canister filter as they aren't cheap in my area. At best I could build out of PVC a HOB filter of sorts. What is your perspective on the matter?

I will take your advice with the driftwood, going to have to hunt some down, don't think that'll be to hard a job. The cycling I'll do with plants, I want to aquascape while cycling.

Edit:
1. Bristlenose Plecox2
2. Sterbai Cory x14
3. Marble Hatchet x10
4. Black Phantom Tetra x10
5. Ember tetra x15
Are all these in a 60 gallon tank with one canister filter ok?

The best would be to probably stock most of the fish except the Black Phantom Tetra, and if the tank water parameters are still stable add the Black Phantoms, correct?

 

[Byron]

My 40g (one of those photos) is much the same base area as your 60g, just shallower. Length 90cm, width 45 cm. I have 50 characins in this tank. The filter is a dual sponge in the back corner, so there is minimal water movement and filtration. It is well planted, as the photo shows. I will be adding more fish to this tank, if I can find what I'm looking for locally. My point is, that calculators cannot possibly take into account all the relevant factors; only our intelligence can do this accurately. I may have explained factors in deciding fish loads somewhere in the other thread, so I will leave that.

So your canister filter is more than adequate. No problem there. I see no problems with the fish list in post #12. Marble hatchets are probably a better fit here. I have 7 of these in my 40g (this is one of the species I want 6-9 more of, if I ever see them locally in a reliable store; I've had this group for years, 5-6 I think, and lost a few along the way--mostly when they jumped out at night if I foolishly left the cover glass slightly open after feeding). I have five Embers in this tank, another species I want to get another 9-10 of if I see them. I've had these six years I think.

Still room for more, so long as you stay with small and sedate (non-active swimming) fish as all of these are; these have less impact on the biology than active fish. Black Phantoims are nice fish, the Red Phantom is more colourful though. Yolu can see my reds in the 70g photo.

Thinking of other species...Loreto Tetra (Hyphessobrycon loretoensis) is lovely, I only have two of my group of 9 acquired 8 years ago left now, but it is almost never seen here. Nice fish if you can get it; 9-10 minimum.

Pencilfish...not all species, but the dwarf Nannostomus marginatus is very nice, and the closely related N. mortenthaleri (Coral Red Pencilfish) another. These two I have never found at all nippy, like the more commonly seen N. beckfordi which I had to move twice because they nipped the hatchets. The N. eques is not colourful but interesting for its oblique swimming posture, and it remains near the surface; no problem with hatchets, I have 12 of these pencils in my 40g.

Byron.

 

[cowgirluntamed]

Just a little side note about tannins...they actually don't cloud your water at all. It's only tinted, but still perfectly clear. When I changed my substrate from gravel to sand...I couldn't stand the "clean" water look as it was just so bright. The tannins seemed to help the coloration of the fish come out too. And it looks very natural. You would be surprised. Lol.

 

[Jordan_Deus]

Well this is good to hear, I think for now I'll stick to the list of fish in post twelve and the plants and aquascape in post 8. Can you by any chance list the feeding habits/ what food each fish needs?

Edit: Any tips on disguising an Air Stone in the tank?