Lfs's Opinion On Ammonia Removers

camtheram

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Today I went to my LFS and asked them about my high ammonia levels. They pretty much told me I had to ride the levels out. I asked them about the ammonia removers they sold, and they said they didn't work. They said all those products do is mask the ammonia levels in a tank. Any thoughts?
 
A good ammonia remover will not remove the ammonia, but convert it to a different form. which is a lot less harmful to fish, but still able to be converted by the biofilter. The best one is Prime IMO.

also do you know why you have ammonia in your tank?
 
I have a new tank. I guess the combo of the new fish, food, and waste without the tank's natural biology being up to speed is causing it. My LFS said it would level out on its own within 6-8 weeks. They said my danios should be fine but they did say my neon tetras were fragile. I guess I will keep a close eye on those little guys. I do have one neon tetra acting kind of funky. He is like swimming up and down vertically along the tank. I have never seen that before. Anyone notice this behavior from neon tetras?
 
yep, your tank is cycling. You need to pick up a liquid test kit ASAP. You want one that measures ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and PH. The tank will eventually level out, but you will have to perform daily water changes to keep ammonia and nitrite levels below .25ppm. You will have closely monitor the tank during the cycle. If you let the levels get too high they will poison your fish. This is why your neons are starting to act up :/ . I would do a 50% water change ASAP.
 
Can you recommend a tap water conditioner for when I do water changes? Why do you prefer liquid tests over test strips?
 
I use Stress Coat but anything that removes chlorine and chloramine is fine.
I've never used test strips, only the API master test kit.
Buying a liquid master test kit is cheaper in the long run if you have to test on a regular basis, which you definitely will when cycling a tank.
Also the accuracy is better with liquid tests over strips.
Do a water change asap, as soon as you have your water conditioner, to make your fish feel a bit more comfortable :fish:
 
How toxic is the liquid test stuff for ammonia? I got a little drop on my finger and kind of just rinsed it out in the sink with my bare hands. Then I read the warning advice and it talks about how bad that stuff is for your skin.
 
How toxic is the liquid test stuff for ammonia? I got a little drop on my finger and kind of just rinsed it out in the sink with my bare hands. Then I read the warning advice and it talks about how bad that stuff is for your skin.

I wouldnt worry about that, i been using them for ages and always get it on my hands, just rinse off with warm water.

Btw, api water conditioner is best i think.

Alsi if you want to help your filter along, add some stress zyme in to your tank, your fish will appreciate that ;)
 
I've never used this stuff personally but there is a product called bactinates (i think thats what it is called) which is suppose to speed up your cycle. I know maidenhead aquatics sell it, i'm sure there are people that have used it that may be able to give some info about it. I think it contains the bacteria which live in your filter. I use a product called prime which imo is one of the best conditioners ammonia removers out there.
 
You have a very good LFS. Most others would sell you the ammonia remover, even though they knew it didn't work.
 
I would also recommend Prime from Seachem as others have. I use it for a chlorine remover all the time and if there is ammonia in the tank you can add extra with the water change. What is your pH? If it is in the low 6's or below be careful not to raise it too much by doing large water changes with higher pH water. Keep it low and try to keep the ammonia down with small water changes. The reason for this is that low pH makes the ammonia less toxic to the fish.

If the pH is already high do large water changes as the ammonia is more toxic and just needs to be removed.

Hope that makes sense.
 
Well I ended up buying an ammonia test (made by API), stress coat (planned on doing a water change today), and some conditioning salt. I tested the water before doing my water change and the test came out fine. I mean the color of the API ammonia test water was almost the exact yellow that indicates my ammonia levels are close to 0.00. How can this be? I've had the tank setup since the 13th with four fish. So basically I decided not to do a water change today. Should I do one anyways?
 
I have test strips for nitrite and nitrate. All my tests have been fine. Why would I do a water change if all my levels are good?
 
What are the reading now of your, nitrate, nitrite and ammonia?
 

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