Is There Anything More I Need?

[Mystery]

So i bought a 10 gallon starter kit about a week ago, i know its small, but i plan on upgrading to a 55 gallon within the next 6 months. I just want to make sure i can handle the responsibilities with a smaller tank first. Anyways, the filter the starter kit came with was a piece of s**t so i took the liberty of buying a Penguin 100 Bio-Wheel Power Filter. I also have a heater that i bought for it for obvious reasons.. I also purchased an Aqua-flo bulb which is supposed to "Bring out the colors in the fish, and enhance plant growth" I used tap water when i first started my tank, my towns pH levels are 7.2 - 7.8 so im pretty sure i dont need to fix that. I also bought some aquarium salt that i added during initial setup, along with "Cycle" (bacteria in a bottle). I also have a couple of toys, and one potted plant. The levels of everything seemed to be fine, so i recently added some fish.

- White Molly
- Black Molly
- Pleco
- Catfish
- Snail (not sure what kind)
- Powder Blue Cichlid

Now, before you gasp in horror, i was told that my cichlid would kill the molly's but probably wouldn't mess with the pleco. But im happy to report that they all get along nicely. Anyways, what my main question is, do i have everything i need for the tank to run productively and keep the fish happy? Or are there more supplies/materials that i should get, aside from a bigger tank, which i mentioned i would be getting latter on this year if i can do fine with the one i have..

Thank you for reading my novel!

 

[rsands]

Welcome to the forum!

Did you use a product like stress coat to remove the chlorine from the water? How long has the tank been running? The tank isn't cycled so you need to buy a test kit (api master test kit is excellant) and watch the levels. ammonia and nitrite should be 0 but as you have started a fish cycle th ammonia will rise and then a few days/week later the nitrite will rise...you need to do 20% water changes daily once the ammonia reaches 1(max) and nitrites .3

This will help keep the levels down for the fish.

 

[dthoffsett]

In a ten gallon tank your cichlid will kill everything, including the pleco. The only reason they are getting along now is the cichlid is most likely a juvenile. Also, african cichlids need diets that are primarily comprised of vegetable matter, and if you feed it standard community fish food, there's a good chance it will develop bloat. Save yourself a headache and return it. Once you get the 55 gallon tank, consider doing an african cichlid community tank (no other types of fish than cichlids and some catfish), it would be the perfect size.

I also second getting a liquid test kit, even though you added the "Cycle" (most of these products don't work IMO), your tank will still be cycling, and you need to monitor the ammonia and nitrIte levels. You will most likely need to do daily 10-15% water changes until the ammonia and nitrite reach and remain at zero.

The only other thing I can think of that you'll need is a gravel vacuum to do water changes and clean the substrate, if you didn't already get one.

Good luck, and welcome to the wonderful world of fishkeeping.

 

[fishlette]

In a ten gallon tank your cichlid will kill everything, including the pleco. The only reason they are getting along now is the cichlid is most likely a juvenile. Also, african cichlids need diets that are primarily comprised of vegetable matter, and if you feed it standard community fish food, there's a good chance it will develop bloat. Save yourself a headache and return it. Once you get the 55 gallon tank, consider doing an african cichlid community tank (no other types of fish than cichlids and some catfish), it would be the perfect size.

I also second getting a liquid test kit, even though you added the "Cycle" (most of these products don't work IMO), your tank will still be cycling, and you need to monitor the ammonia and nitrIte levels. You will most likely need to do daily 10-15% water changes until the ammonia and nitrite reach and remain at zero.

The only other thing I can think of that you'll need is a gravel vacuum to do water changes and clean the substrate, if you didn't already get one.

Good luck, and welcome to the wonderful world of fishkeeping.

i wouldnt say they dont work at all. i noted cycle times in the latest tank i cycled with cycle (thats a lot of cycle there lol). cycle cut down total cycling time by 8%. now this isnt huge but the more i test this the more it shows that cycle does do some good for your tanks cycling. i got the girl who is going to be working for me to cycle her new tank the same way. same results with the same amount and total of water changes.

im still testing these products out at my shop but so far everything points to cycle and other bacterias in a bottle cutting down cycling time. may not be by much but it is there.

however, i wouldnt rely on the stuff doing the whole job

 

[Aphotic Phoenix]

Hmm...testing how well those "bacteria" products work is starting to sound like an interesting science experiment (argh with the amount of equipment I'd have to buy though I'd have enough to start breeding/fry tanks)

The only "live bacteria" product that I trust is Bio-Spira (USA), or Bactinettes (UK). Both are quite pricey however because they must remain refrigerated, although I've heard really wonderful reviews about how quickly they establish the cycle in a tank.

 

[rsands]

cycle helps gives the bacteria the neccessary aid as far as i am aware! o help promote their growth

if the products didn't do anything they aren't allowed to advertise them as being beneficial...its against the law to say a product does something and it really doesn't. so it has to aid in the bacteria growth (not just put in live bacteria like bio-spira)

 

[-germ-]

Try and get some mature filter media from a cycled tank if you know anyone else who keeps fish....
I'd get some seachem prime, this does three things (and i've used it during three fish in cycles i'm ashamed to admit i just don't have the patience, with no fishy deaths!!) it dechlorinates your tap water which is essential. It also detoxifies ammonia and nitrite, effectively. Most importantly it definately works and is one of the cheapest dechlorinators on the market. This or similar products with similar effects are an absolute must if your cycling fish in. The other beneficial thing you could do would be to purchase a cheap internal filter and add a Seachem purigen pad which'll help loads, although it'd extend you tank cycle from weeks to months, but there'll be barely any toxins to damage your fish.
Ps. I don't work for seachem

 

[Robris]

I use seachem Prime and its the best out there. My nitrite levels are through the roof (very dark purple) and its not effecting the fish simply because it does what it says (detoxifies)