I Think I'm Going To Attempt Breeding Bettas Again This Summer

[afireinside]

I would've had a successful spawn about 2 or 3 summers ago, but as soon as I tooke the female out, the male betta decided he wanted to eat all 500+ eggs. Anyhow, I'd like to go about breeding bettas again this summer. In reality, I have everything I need, and the things I don't have are relatively easy and cheap to get. Personally, I'd like to breed some Crowntails, but if I can't get a crowntail female (I know for a fact I can get a male easy), I'm going to find either a female plakat or VT. Now with that being said, what kind of tail types would I get out of that? Would I get some combtails out of that spawn? I can't remember on how to do those charts that help determine genes and such. Anyhow, any information would be greatly appreciated. Also, any advice so that the male doesn't eat the eggs will be gladly taken. Will the eggs still develop if and when they fall out of the bubble nest?

 

[constantine03]

You likely wouldn't get combtails until later generations of back breeding. Petsmart has had plenty of female CTs lately. The best advice I have for making sure the male doesn't eat the eggs is to make sure he is very well conditioned. If he's been conditioned properly for at least two weeks and he still eats the eggs, it could be because it's his first time, or he's just not a good breeder. Eggs can still hatch without the male, but artificial hatching is a bit tricky and not always very successful...

Jeff Wilson wrote:
"I have preferred to take the nests when concerned about an egg eater or just wanting to take no risks with an unknown male. I have also used this method to get three spawns from one male in five days . I think I let him tend the last spawn . I remember a lot of conversation and some videos ( Ed McGehee ) in the early 90s regarding artificial hatching / rearing techniques. I tried them all and then some . Ultimately I learned no complcated technique is necessary . Mine is the no technique or stolen nest method as I sometimes refer to it .Once the fish have spawned I take a piece of tupper ware or a bowl and slide it under the cup and nest and lift .Any eggs missed are placed in the container with a baster. I leave about one inch of water in the container .Any fungused eggs are removed with the baster over the next couple days. Once free swimming the fry are put back in a rearing tank. An 8x10 or so low edged container works well .Its easy to position the nest in the middle for lifting . It also allows the eggs to spread over a wide area which makes removal of fungused eggs easier. Once ive got the nest I get rid of the cup . Cheap plastic food storage containers work great and cost less than Tupper ware.I suppose you could also just remove the fish at the end of the spawn and leave the nest in the tank. The advantage of putting the nest in a small container is the easy removal of fungused eggs. I have used the stolen nest method 30-40 times over the years because it guarantees fry . If im nervous about a male and really want that spawn ,I just take the nest. Success rate is near 100% .Only failure and it wasnt total was when I fed brine in the small container and didnt remove the dead brine soon enough .Small amounts of water can sour quickly depleting oxygen and killing fry. Tha answer is to just put them back in a tank after hatching and becoming free swimming . As for spawning that male x3 in five days . He spawned ,I took the nest and introduced a new female. He built a new nest and spawned . I took the nest ,and introduced a new female .Each spawn was smaller but it worked. I covered a lot of genetic ground in five days. This is probably best done the week before the full moon when the fish are very anxious to spawn.

No need for aeration. It is not necessary. Oxygen exchange at the water surface is adequate. I have full confidence in the stolen nest method. Another advantage of the plastic container is you can put a light underneath as an aid to see fungused eggs."

 

[afireinside]

I think I would like to try that method. Just because of the first spawn I did. That is really some helpful advice.

Just out of curiousity, if I were to breed a DT (most likely a VTDT because that's all they sell around here) male to a CT female, what would the tail be like and what would the genetics hold genes for?

 

[constantine03]

DT is recessive...VT is dominant. You likely would not see any DTs until later generations bred back to the DT you started with unless the other mate has some recessive DT genes you are unaware of. As far as the CT goes...I cannot imagine that being a very desirable tail type. You would likely get mostly VTs with little uneven spikes. People work to create the combtails over multiple generations of PK or HM to CT. I honestly cannot say what you would get with certainty, but I think a prettier pair would be another VT female, then breed back an obvious DT carrier to try and get more DTVT fry.

 

[afireinside]

Okay, I think I am going to keep it to one tail type. Despite how I'd love DT's, there are no female DT's around here. They don't sell them at the fish stores around here, and I don't feel like buying online this time. This leaves me to plakats, veiltails or crowntails. Personally, if I can find a good female VT, I will breed it to my current VT, Dante. But if I can't, I'll probably end up breeding crowntails because I have the hardest time telling female plakats and veiltails apart.

I actually know quite a few friends who'll buy from me, so I think I'd be safe with breeding VTs.