Hygrophila Difformis Is It Toxic?
- Thread starter RinaLane
- Start date
Interesting question, the toxicity aspect. Dr. Christel Kasselmann, a botanist with years of experience in aquarium plants, does not mention the species Hygrophila difformis as being toxic, but she does warn that from her own experiments H. balsamica is very highly toxic to fish when cultivated emersed, though it is safe in submersed cultivation.
This led me to "Google" and I came across more than one article on the medicinal properties of H. difformis in experiments with terrestrial animals like mice; here's one.
http
/www.ijpcbs.com/files/286-12.pdf
I have never heard or read of H. difformis being toxic to aquatic residents, though most aquarists probably grow it submersed and acquire it as such. It is a marsh plant, and Kasselmann in her book Aquarium Plants describes the difference, but again makes no mention of this species being toxic.
To your question on how to change it from emersed to submersed, just grow it submersed. Push the cut end of the stems into the substrate a couple inches or more; a small rock or two may help to hold it down until it establishes, and roots will appear and anchor it. I would be inclined to remove the flowers as they will only rot submersed anyway. As the plant establishes, the new leaves will be the finer submersed form.
Byron.
This led me to "Google" and I came across more than one article on the medicinal properties of H. difformis in experiments with terrestrial animals like mice; here's one.
http
/www.ijpcbs.com/files/286-12.pdfI have never heard or read of H. difformis being toxic to aquatic residents, though most aquarists probably grow it submersed and acquire it as such. It is a marsh plant, and Kasselmann in her book Aquarium Plants describes the difference, but again makes no mention of this species being toxic.
To your question on how to change it from emersed to submersed, just grow it submersed. Push the cut end of the stems into the substrate a couple inches or more; a small rock or two may help to hold it down until it establishes, and roots will appear and anchor it. I would be inclined to remove the flowers as they will only rot submersed anyway. As the plant establishes, the new leaves will be the finer submersed form.
Byron.
Update
Hygrophila difformis has been under the water for 5 days. I see grow of roots reaching for ground. And also I see HOW bad it drops off all its leaves.... And they rot... And my ammonia-nitrites-nitrates is jumped up sky high... At least that what my API water test says... What is my speps to do anything? I do 30% water change every Sunday shouls I do it everyday?
Hygrophila difformis has been under the water for 5 days. I see grow of roots reaching for ground. And also I see HOW bad it drops off all its leaves.... And they rot... And my ammonia-nitrites-nitrates is jumped up sky high... At least that what my API water test says... What is my speps to do anything? I do 30% water change every Sunday shouls I do it everyday?
I'd be very surprised if the plant lower leaves dying is the sole cause of ammonia, nitrite and nitrate all rising this fast. Can you post the numbers for each of these, what they are now and what they were normally? Also, the tank size (volume) and what other plants are in it, and the fish. The pH too would be interesting.
Roots will grow from each node along the stem of H. difformis. Those that grow under the substrate tend to be a bit thicker which anchors it well. A photo of one of these stems might help.
Byron.
Roots will grow from each node along the stem of H. difformis. Those that grow under the substrate tend to be a bit thicker which anchors it well. A photo of one of these stems might help.
Byron.
Ammonia is in green around 4
nitrite in deep purple between 2.0-4.0
nitrate dark orange 160
Ph is 7.5
Tank 75G.
T 26C.
Currently have 5 fish: 1 epalzeorhynchus bicolor, 1 albino ancistrus sp., 1 Pterygoplichthys gibbiceps, 1 polypterus senegalus, 1 hemigrammus erythrozonus & about 15 ghost shripms.
There is about 60 seperate stems of Hygrophila difformis I also have 13 small anubias & few strings of cabomba
Hygrophila looked like that
https/pbs.twimg.com/media/B8K5QIdCEAAmQZv.jpg
Now its about the same but leaves from the buttom of the stem is turning not healthy color & falling down which is normal since it suppose to transform in underwater form? Top of plant looks the same so far
In water changes water gives a little bit grinish color before was crystal clear.
nitrite in deep purple between 2.0-4.0
nitrate dark orange 160
Ph is 7.5
Tank 75G.
T 26C.
Currently have 5 fish: 1 epalzeorhynchus bicolor, 1 albino ancistrus sp., 1 Pterygoplichthys gibbiceps, 1 polypterus senegalus, 1 hemigrammus erythrozonus & about 15 ghost shripms.
There is about 60 seperate stems of Hygrophila difformis I also have 13 small anubias & few strings of cabomba
Hygrophila looked like that
https
/pbs.twimg.com/media/B8K5QIdCEAAmQZv.jpgNow its about the same but leaves from the buttom of the stem is turning not healthy color & falling down which is normal since it suppose to transform in underwater form? Top of plant looks the same so far
In water changes water gives a little bit grinish color before was crystal clear.
I don't mean to scare you, but if those test numbers are correct, you have a major problem here. Both the ammonia and nitrite are high enough to kill fish. And nitrate that high is going to have serious consequences.
1. Pull out all those plants immediately. The photo appears to be H. difformis in the emersed form, but this seems to have been the cause so it is wise to be safe. The greenish tinge to the water is likely from the plant.
2. Do a major water change of 80% of the tank, using only a conditioner; one like Prime or Ultimate, both of which detoxify all three nitrogen forms, would be good if you have either, but don't wait to get some. Test your tap water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate too; this will tell you if any of these are entering via the source water (which I frankly doubt), and it will also be a check on the test regents as the numbers are unlikely to be so high. Re-test the tank water too; take out a glass of tank water for the tests so they are prior to this water change, then test again following the water change.
Byron.
1. Pull out all those plants immediately. The photo appears to be H. difformis in the emersed form, but this seems to have been the cause so it is wise to be safe. The greenish tinge to the water is likely from the plant.
2. Do a major water change of 80% of the tank, using only a conditioner; one like Prime or Ultimate, both of which detoxify all three nitrogen forms, would be good if you have either, but don't wait to get some. Test your tap water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate too; this will tell you if any of these are entering via the source water (which I frankly doubt), and it will also be a check on the test regents as the numbers are unlikely to be so high. Re-test the tank water too; take out a glass of tank water for the tests so they are prior to this water change, then test again following the water change.
Byron.
Could it be that my tests is faulty somehow? I'm using it just past 2 weeks. Bought a kit from amazon. If I dip test strip in nitrite & nitrate indicator is barrely turns pink. About 1 & maybe 40 ppm... Should fish or shrimps express any discomfort? I noticed that since I planted Hygrophila about 6 of my shripms now with eggs is it good or bad?
goldfinger
Fish Fanatic
I think going back to basics like Bryon has advised. Guess this is a fish in cycle so be it.
When I started without a decent API kit I would go down a local fish center and ask them to use the liquid test kit for me. Most LFC's will do this free of charge and must say the strips are next to useless so many people thought their parameters were in good shape and then the sudden shock when a proper test kit, reveled the true nature of the water, which is essentially fishes living in their (pardon my French) own piss and crap!
One thing never changes denial that something you can't see, is actually harming the fishes!
Do the water changes buy a water butt to make life easier and a pump to move the water, it will get better trust me!
When I started without a decent API kit I would go down a local fish center and ask them to use the liquid test kit for me. Most LFC's will do this free of charge and must say the strips are next to useless so many people thought their parameters were in good shape and then the sudden shock when a proper test kit, reveled the true nature of the water, which is essentially fishes living in their (pardon my French) own piss and crap!
One thing never changes denial that something you can't see, is actually harming the fishes!
Do the water changes buy a water butt to make life easier and a pump to move the water, it will get better trust me!
I previously had to warn you of those numbers, but of course we have no way of knowing if the tests are faulty or accurate. One way is to observe the fish. I am always able to tell when something is wrong with an individual fish, or more than one in an aquarium, even though I may not know what the problem might be.
Fish under stress as they would be from ammonia or nitrite will show obvious signs, such as more rapid respiration, red gills, hanging near the surface, losing energy and becoming lethargic, gasping right at the surface, clamped fins, loss of some colour, whitish "haze"...any of these may of course be due to other issues too, but any of them is a sign of trouble. And you would see some of these if the ammonia or nitrite is much above zero.
The API liquid test kits are reliable. The Master Combo has pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate which is a good kit to have, especially for the first while. Online will likely be less expensive.
Byron.
Fish under stress as they would be from ammonia or nitrite will show obvious signs, such as more rapid respiration, red gills, hanging near the surface, losing energy and becoming lethargic, gasping right at the surface, clamped fins, loss of some colour, whitish "haze"...any of these may of course be due to other issues too, but any of them is a sign of trouble. And you would see some of these if the ammonia or nitrite is much above zero.
The API liquid test kits are reliable. The Master Combo has pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate which is a good kit to have, especially for the first while. Online will likely be less expensive.
Byron.
No symtoms such you described. They eating like crazy. I feed them once a day. All coming out when I pop lead open. No fish even near top of aquarium (most of them is bottom feeders)
I took all plants out, changed 80% with API Stress Coat+ (removes chlorine, chloramines & ammonia) Tap water showes 0 on anything with test strip & with API drop test. Will do another water test tomorrow in day light
And thank you very much for your help. Im just panicing abut everything because I'm new to this
I took all plants out, changed 80% with API Stress Coat+ (removes chlorine, chloramines & ammonia) Tap water showes 0 on anything with test strip & with API drop test. Will do another water test tomorrow in day light
And thank you very much for your help. Im just panicing abut everything because I'm new to this
goldfinger
Fish Fanatic
Good to hear can you post test results after 24hrs from the last test and not feed the fish in that 24hrs?
RinaLane said:
If the nitrite is really 1 ppm, another water change is needed. But the fish would be showing symptoms, so once more we have to wonder about the accuracy of the test, and I assume you are still with the strips?
Prime as a water conditioner would be wise here, as it detoxifies ammonia, nitrite and nitrate; once the ammonia and nitrite are zero, for consecutive days, things should be OK and you can stay with your regular conditioner.
Byron.
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