How to handle empty quarantine tank

gwand

Fish Gatherer
Tank of the Month 🏆
Fish of the Month 🌟
2x Pet of the Month!
Joined
Dec 31, 2022
Messages
2,584
Reaction score
5,002
Location
Baltimore, MD
I posted about this topic a while ago, but cannot find your replies. I have a 20 gallon long quarantine tank that will be empty by this coming Monday. I have no plans for new fish until the weather warms up in late March. To keep the nitrogen cycle going I could put some fish in the tank or I could add ammonia to the tank once or twice twice a week. I prefer the latter, as this would allow me to reduce weekly water exchanges in one of my eight tanks. If I take that pad, how much ammonia and how often should I add it to the tank? I look forward to your replies.
 
Why not just keep some extra media in one or more of your other tanks, such that you can bring it over to the q-tank when you are ready to put more fish. It is instant cycling and works beautifully. I do that, with the only caveat that I don’t bring that media from the q-tank back to my other tanks. Thus, I use cheap (or cost-less) media that I don’t mind discarding.
 
I used to keep a small pleco in my quarantine tank... then could move it, if the tank is truely needed as a hospital tank... as a quarantine tank , I usually left the fish in there...

I used a pleco, but they had been hard to catch, when / if needed... another easier to catch fish may be a better thought... something low cost, yet durable, and something that gets along with most all fish, in the type of water, in that tank...
 
Is your quarantine tank planted? Mine is. Over time it has become densely planted and, in turn, produces mulm composed of decaying vegetation which I leave alone. I find this, and the occasional pinch of flakes, keeps a cycle going between visits by waste-producing fish.
 
I also run at least 2 filters on each tank, both hang on back, and sponge filters, so I could easily move over a filter...
and if a similar were on the clean quarantine tank, it could just be exchanged
 
Dose the tank with ammonia. add 2ppm/gal. twice a week. Yo will still have to do water changes because nitrate will build up. If you have live plants they will use most of the ammonia which is OK as they will also it when fish are added. All other things being equal in two tanks except that one has live plants and the other doesn't is the one without plants relies almost entirely on bacteria to handle ammonia while the tank with the plants will have them consuming more of the ammonia than bacteria will.

The more plantas there are and the faster they grow, the more of the ammonia they will handle. So if you add 2 ppm of ammonia into the empty Q tank, the plants will use most of it. What they cannot use before the bacteria do so determine how much bacteria there will be.

When you know that you are about to get new fish which will go into the tank, change to adding 2 ppm and testing for ammonia. As soon as it tests .25 ppm of lower, redose the 2 ppm. When you are about to get the fish, do a big water change, as big as you can. The plants will have grown during the no fish time and there will be less bacteria as a result. But the tank will still deal with the ammonia OK.

As for water changes you have to do them in tanks with no live plants as nitrate will build up. Eventually it could stall the cycle. You can probably get awat with doing about 50% once a week. Use dechlor when you do so. With enough live plants they will consume any of the nitrate the bacteria make. With enough plants they will use up all the nitrate.

However. most incoming water contains small amounts of things the tank, even those with plants, do not use. Changing water prevents these sort of things from building up with bad results. So, do the water changes at least every 2 week for that reason.

One last word of caution. Some plants are sensitive to ammonia above lower levels. Usually, these are ones kept in high tech planted tanks, but some of such plants can also be kept in moderate light levels. So, if you have more fine leaved or demanding plants. keep an eye on them when adding ammonia. It should be obvious if they are doing badly as a result.

I usually want to keep only plants that are not planted in the substrate in a Q tank. This means either attached to rocks or wood etc. or potted. They need to be easily removed when the time comes to catch the fish in it. I would suggest the two best option for a Q tank are bare bottom or a light colored sand. These make it easier to monitor poop, uneaten food and any expelled worms or parasties.

The bacteria do not need to have "food" every day. However, if they are not getting any ammonia for a number of days in a row, they will "know" this and they will go dormant until ammonia again becomes available. By adding 2 ppm every 3 or 4 days, they will not go dormant. Research into waste water treatment revealed something interesting. The incoming water fluctuates in its ammonia level. It turns out this effective pulsing of ammonia actually made the bacteria more resilient/stronger.

Finally. it is a lot easier to add ammonia every few days than to have fish in the tank to keep it cycled. Fish have to be fed, water has to be changed and the tanks needs to be vacuumed. And when new fish arrive, you have to move out the fish used to keep the tank cycled and then round them up again and return them when the time comes to move the fish in Q into their permanent home(s).
 
I go with 2 filters per tank. I switch them out regularly. I have several fishless, planted tanks running because I'm less than 2 months from going fishing, and upon my return hope to have fish in need of immediate, healthy homes. I like to alternate filters with crowded fry tanks, so all the HOBs get fed.

On occasion, I've left waiting tanks unfiltered, and simply dropped an HOB running as an extra on a more crowded tank onto them when the fish arrived.
 
I have several fishless, planted tanks running because I'm less than 2 months from going fishing, and upon my return hope to have fish in need of immediate, healthy homes.
I am living my life , vicariously , through you Bwana . You’re lucky and I’m looking forward to hearing about your safari afterwards .
 
I'm going to keep a daily journal, and transcribe the interesting bits onto a thread here. I'll focus on what we find and what its habitat looks like.
Tell us again what countries you'll be visiting? I want to make sure I get my order in before you go...;)
 
I'm going to need 600 suitcases.
Mine are small and won't take up much room. They max out at 2.5". So if you are in western Cameroon, and the CDC rubber plantation one km north of Bolifamba….which I hear is lovely this time of year...get these, Fundulopanchax robertsoni.

Fp_robertsoni.jpg


Current science suggests it and F. rubrolabiale might be one and the same species. So if you find yourself in Mbonge, Malende or the Mungo River Delta...F. rubrolabiale will do just fine. I thank you in advance.

Fp_rubrolabialis_Malende_M.jpg
 
Gary says he’s going to Central Africa but I heard he is really going to a large fish farm in Indonesia, one that services Petco and Petsmart. You will be amazed at his prices.
 
It'll be Benin. The flight to Indonesia takes too long, and I just can't get into Asian fish.

I would love to visit Cameroon to fish. I'd go back to Gabon in a heartbeat. In fact, if my heart keeps beating and I keep my health, I may actually look into a trip to Gabon. I need to find companions.

The only Fundulopanchax I might meet up with is filamentosus. It isn't a target for me though. I'm looking to Epiplatys.

I've seen imports of the Fundulopanchax from Cameroon, but the bags were mayhem and in large tanks, it continued. They'd have to be single packed...
 

Most reactions

Back
Top