How Much Filtration Do You Use?

Malawi MaD

Fish Herder
Joined
Jan 27, 2011
Messages
1,229
Reaction score
0
Location
UK
Hi All

I often see many members on many forums that people have 5+ times the filtration of their own aquariums. Some people have less, some have more. Some say 'for instance my turnover rate is 10 times an hour etc etc...
So my questions to everyone.

How do you calculate the amount of filtration you need?

Where do these suggestions/rules come from?

How accurate are they?

Manufacturers claim a filter is for tanks up to 200/300/600 litres etc..

Where do they get these figures from?

Im comfortable with how i run my aquariums and maintain them but Would love to get your responses and ideas. :good: :good:
 
Depends on the fish and how much you stock. Sometimes not a whole lot of filtration is needed when you have a few fish with a low bioload and/or maybe some shrimp

I myself filter my 37 gallon with a 75 gallon filter, and my 20 gallon is just filtered with a very very old 20 gallon filter.

I think there is no such thing as too much filtration, as long as the filter isn't so strong the current is blowing all your fish around
 
I have two Penguin 200s on my 56 gallon tank. I was going to go with just a Penguin 350, but it wouldn't fit the way I wanted so I split it. I actually like the two filters. If one breaks down, I'll have a backup already in place and running so it won't be a crisis. That will allow me time to get a new one, if necessary.


The 200s are supposed to cycle 200 gallons per hour. So, that puts me around 400 gallons per hour or about 8x turnover, when you subtract for substrate and decor displacement.
 
I have two Penguin 200s on my 56 gallon tank. I was going to go with just a Penguin 350, but it wouldn't fit the way I wanted so I split it. I actually like the two filters. If one breaks down, I'll have a backup already in place and running so it won't be a crisis. That will allow me time to get a new one, if necessary.


The 200s are supposed to cycle 200 gallons per hour. So, that puts me around 400 gallons per hour or about 8x turnover, when you subtract for substrate and decor displacement.
Depends on the fish and how much you stock. Sometimes not a whole lot of filtration is needed when you have a few fish with a low bioload and/or maybe some shrimp

I myself filter my 37 gallon with a 75 gallon filter, and my 20 gallon is just filtered with a very very old 20 gallon filter.

I think there is no such thing as too much filtration, as long as the filter isn't so strong the current is blowing all your fish around

See this is the question can you over filter, when you go into the subject in great depth it starts to get a little confusing, im like you i over filter i always have 2 externals running on all my aquariums, but isit actually needed?? Can it cause more harm than good? The thing is surprisingly i think You will find that a lot of people have actually got immature filters and don't realise it.It does not matter how many filters you have in a system. Filters work by mechanical, biological and chemical filtration. So therefore if you have say for instance 5 filters running on your tank, water is being mechanically filtered 5 more times than it would if you had one filter, however biologically (and this is the most important sort of filtration) you can only have as much biological filteration determined on the food provided, bacteria needs food to digest otherwise it dies, so if 1 spoonfull of bacterial food will feed one filter, and all you provide is one teaspoon of food, then it doesnt matter how many filters you have as you have only got enough food to feed one. Extra filters are good for when you are over stocking/over feeding.I think that people who have 2 sometimes 3 filters and do 50% 60% weekly water changes, are defeating the object as there is not enough food for these biological filter beds to be sustained. If you did parameter tests with all your (5)filters and then knock off 1 filter you would probably find that there is no difference. Dont forget the more efficeint the filter the more nitrate will be produced and you can only produce nitrate by the amount of organics that are in the water, so rather than extra filters an aenerobic nitrate filter would serve a much better purpose.


I just want to see what peoples thoughts/answers are on how they filter etc..
Thanks for the replies guys.
 
They can all be mature, just at a level that biologically filters 1/2 or 1/5 or whatever of the bioload of the tank. Main reason for two filters is a backup incase of failure, a filter that can cope with half the bioload of the tank still running is better than none, and gives a buffer period so water changes can be carried out and the other filter fixed.
 
My larger tank (stocking in my signature) runs a Fluval 205, full of ceramic media with a fine wool polishing pad in the last basket. I also run a small internal filter that came with my 30L, full of fine wool... i have found that by removing this wool during my weekly water changes and giving it a good squeeze has all but cleared my tannis issue i had when the tank was first set-up.

Terry.
 
take manufacturers flow claims with a pinch of salt. There's a thread on here somewhere where people have calcualted the actual flow and it is almost always lower than that claimed on the box.

I run a 305 and a 405 on a 320L. Gives a good flow without making it a whirlpool.
 
As already mentioned, i dont think you cant "over filter" a tank, but too much flow can be a bit stressfull for slower moving fish that struggle against the current. I recently swapped a 800lph for a 3000lph powerhead, aimed roughly to "turn" the water around the tank, with the last "corner" being where the pump inlet is, indeally to push the waste on the sand surface around in a circle torwards the filter. Ive had to move it to stop it blowing my 12 new Barbs around the top half of the tank!

I think two externals is a great idea, and although i dont currently have two, its something im considering with the addition of more fish to the 75 gal, for reasons stated above.
 
I will try to address this point by point, as best I can...

See this is the question can you over filter, when you go into the subject in great depth it starts to get a little confusing, im like you i over filter i always have 2 externals running on all my aquariums, but is it actually needed??

"Need" is a challenging thing to answer, as different fish all have different needs. In theory, you need no more filtration than would be necessary to cycle sufficient water for your bioload to keep ammonia and nitrite at zero. Where that threshold is would depend greatly on the type of fish you have, the volume of your tank, the amount of fish, the amount you feed, how often you water change and vac, etc. There are just too many variables to put a set number on it.

Can it cause more harm than good?

As pointed out, I believe the answer is simply, NO. As long as the fish are not struggling with the amount of current, I see no reason to purpose that it is possible that it could be "over-filtered" to a detriment. Most fish in the hobby come from rivers, and many of them actually prefer the faster currents. My glofish spend a good deal of time swimming in the current coming from my filters, I think that they think of it like an endless pool or treadmill of sorts.

The thing is surprisingly i think You will find that a lot of people have actually got immature filters and don't realise it.It does not matter how many filters you have in a system.
How exactly do you define "immature"? If you define it as unable to handle the full bioload of the tank by itself, then sure. But what does that matter? Most people who have multiple filters running do it, as far as I know to have a bit more circulation and/or a failsafe for a filter breaking. Of course, if a filter did break, there could be an ammonia spike, but not nearly as large as if there were no filter running afterwards. So, in my case, with only 1 filter working (since they are exactly the same filter I will assume for the sake of argument that they each can handle 50% of my bioload) if one broke down, my ammonia will go up only half as fast as if I didn't have that extra filter. PLUS, I will also mention that in cases like this, the established (I won't use the word mature, since it seems to be confusing) colony in the other filter could increase in size and actually take over the full job.


Filters work by mechanical, biological and chemical filtration. So therefore if you have say for instance 5 filters running on your tank, water is being mechanically filtered 5 more times than it would if you had one filter, however biologically (and this is the most important sort of filtration) you can only have as much biological filteration determined on the food provided,

Granted.

bacteria needs food to digest otherwise it dies, so if 1 spoonfull of bacterial food will feed one filter, and all you provide is one teaspoon of food, then it doesnt matter how many filters you have as you have only got enough food to feed one.

Also granted. But, there is also something to be said for "not putting all your eggs in one basket". Keeping the bacteria in multiple filters means that you are in less danger of catastrophe if one breaks down. I go away for multiple days consecutively every now and then. I don't leave anyone in charge of my tank. It runs fine on its own while I am away. And I know that if one of the filters shuts down while I am away for any reason, I still have another filter working. I don't have to worry about it.


Extra filters are good for when you are over stocking/over feeding.
They will help but the real key is water changes to keep the water quality high. Large water changes when overstocked are necessary, regardless of the number of filters you have running.

I think that people who have 2 sometimes 3 filters and do 50% 60% weekly water changes, are defeating the object as there is not enough food for these biological filter beds to be sustained.

This confuses me. How would a water change defeat the purpose? Assuming that the filters are fully cycled for the tank in question, the ammonia and nitrite remain at trace levels at all times. Doing a water change removes the excess nitrAte, which the bacteria don't need/use. The ammonia will still be produced by the fish on a continual basis, so I don't get your point here at all. The water changes replenish minerals to the tank and remove nitrAtes and poo. Are you suggesting that leaving the poo in the tank is good because it produces more ammonia and allows a bigger bacteria colony? I will disagree with that. Removing the poo is the job of the keeper, not the job of the filter. The filters job is to keep it from fouling the water until such time as I remove it.

If you did parameter tests with all your (5)filters and then knock off 1 filter you would probably find that there is no difference.

Well, yeah, you can safely remove a full 1/3 of your biological media without worry of an ammonia spike, because the bacteria left behind will reproduce and fill in for the missing bacs. This is how many a keeper "clones" a filter to start up a new tank.

Dont forget the more efficeint the filter the more nitrate will be produced and you can only produce nitrate by the amount of organics that are in the water, so rather than extra filters an aenerobic nitrate filter would serve a much better purpose.

There are more nasties in the water and more reasons than just nitrate removal to do a water change. Granted it is a part of it, but IMHO, doing a water change has less to do with nitrates and more to do with overall clean water. Water changes keep the water quality of the tank high and allows the fish to deal with most pathogens that might come their way on their own. A filter directly designed to remove nitrates would mask the issue of needing to do water changes and could pose a problem long term.

I just want to see what peoples thoughts/answers are on how they filter etc..
Thanks for the replies guys.

You are welcome. ;)
 
I go for 10x theoretical turn over, that way I can guarantee that I wont encounter any algal/detritus build up problems and it benefits nutrient distribution.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top